Home Depot couplers? Ugh.

 

lol, i'll repost this link i picked up a while back

http://www.hightempsilicone.com/

good quality couplers

 

I finished installing my gauges today.
Boost and EGT are no brainier, the AFR I am not sure where to get the reading from. need to do some research. Any Ideas? I read somewhere on here that a yellow wire going into the central harness on the stock pcm is where the signal is, but I need to make sure.

Anyway with boost gauge working, I took the car out for some boost calibration.
This turbo system is insane. it keeps on making boost and power at some sick rates.
I got to the 3rd gear and floored the throttle pedal. At around 3K the boost came to some 5 PSI and the car begun hard acceleration while making more and more boost. at around 7+K the boost was near 13# and it kept on making more and pulling harder and harder. Totally insane. The engine run very smooth, but I let go of the throttle, as the pressure figure scared the crap out of me. No wonder it was blowing those crappy couplers left and right.

I stopped the car closed the boost controller entirely and went for another try. Still when under heavy load at about 5.5 K the boost would go as high as 10 PSI, though as I continue to acelerate, it would subside somewhat, and end up howering around 7-8#. But this way, the car stops making power at 6K rpm and after that feels very sluggish, like it is too rich.
I guess I need pick the most comfortable level and then tune it at that.

The real good thing with all this is that even at such high boost levels as 13# the engine run very smooth. No indication of anything being wrong, no overload. EGT showing around 1400 (if that mean anything).
Almost felt like a stock, Except real fast.

Kinda wondering with 13# of boost what was the WHP? :-)

 

Time for some quality time at the dyno

 

Why do this happen ?Some others experience this problem
Maybe the Auxilery port valve not opening at 6000 rpm ??

 

ROCKS
thats fantastic to hear. are you thinking to go with a high boost and see what you cant get out of it, or are you going to go with just a comfortable round number... like 300whp?

 

It all depends on how the car is running with it.
It looks like because of such long tubing and the huge intercooler, the detonation doesn't occur at such high boost levels, but my fuel system is stock, so I doubt it will be able to handle such loads.
I want to get it to make power through the entire RPM band (11- 12 # or whatever boost it might be) as long as it doesn’t ping… I don’t see why not. The turbo is capable of making boost there, and the engine seems to be cooperating very well too.

Having run it at 8 PSI for a day today, I decided that I don't really like it. It is annoying that the car takes off, and then boggles down at 6-7 K, just as the fun is about to begin. It may have to do with ports. If I am not mistaken, Through the Interceptor Scott had configured the secondary ports to open only at like 9K+. On the other hand Int-X base map is designed with a much smaller Greddy turbo in mind, not a monster like mine, that blows 14# at 9K without any effort, so I guess having make changes to the port configuration may help.

The way I am thinking is this. Once the turbo reaches the target boost, the waistgate opens and starts dumping extra exhaust out. This slows the turbo. Pressure drops somewhat causing the engine to boggle, then the extra pressure is relived, and the gate shuts again, and the engine picks up, just to boggle down the next time the boost reaches it's target.... (keep in mind this jerking may be more noticeable on my setup, as there is much longer pipe, so it takes something like a half a sec for TB pressure to catch up with what the pressure at the turbo. Honestly, it almost feels like I hit the red line and the fuel cut off, but not so entirely. it just boggles down, and continues accelerating, and boggles down again… basically continues accelerating but at a much slower rate, while jerking.

If around this 6K time the secondary ports opened, there would be extra demand for air. This would cause the waistgate to stay shut and the turbo to continue spinning to keep up with the demand for boost, as the pressure would be relieved much faster. However I don't think that is just the only thing.
The fuel would also need to be adjusted:
Even though the pressure is lower; the volume of air delivered to the chamber is the same or higher, thus some fuel would have to be added at the point where the secondaries open and on from there, to compensate for extra air. (Unless off course the system is configured to run so rich, that it is not necessary (But I am not looking to find that one out through testing on my car)

On the other hand, Running higher boost with lesser flow or lower boost with higher flow is the same, as long as the volume of air delivered to the engine is the same, so it is less troublesome for me, to just raise the target boost. (but I need to wait for my new couplers and clamps to be delivered) the cheap ones I am running now will not hold the abuse for long.

Hey turbo guru guys, what do you think?

 

ow i'm no turbo guru, but i do have several turbo cars, and my experiance with waastegates is, unless you have a really crappy one it should just creep open enough to keep the boost from rising, it shouldn't make the boost go back down

and btw what brand turbo is it, and is it BB. (PS a t3/t4 isn't really a monster just a couple steps up from the greddy, thats what i had on my celica, and basicly one of the best all around turbos, just not really cosidered a monster lol)

 

Then I wasn't speaking with you

No man I am just kidding. Any feedback is more than welcome.

"Monster" was rather a figure of speech I mean it does make plenty of boost, and starts making boost early enough even being positioned way in the back of the car (past the cat).

No waistgate does not make boost go down, I think the fact that the tube is so long, plus that Intercooler, is what makes it vary at the TB. It takes a little time for the TB pressure to catch up/down on what the waistgate is doing.
I think I should run a vac hose from intake tube next to TB back to turbo and use that for boost control. this way the boost will be less sensitive to variances of pressure at the turbine (where It currently reads it)

 

If you are running long vacuum lines, use copper.

 

Here are some pics:
Gauge Pod, New exhaust tips...
There are pics of blown couplers and burned oil line too, for kicks.

 

more:

 

And more:
note the cooked oil line from the first time I run the car.
My god was there a lot of smoke... :-)

 

Did you buy stock in duck tape and zip ties or does that add horse power...

 

Nice one, Congratulations. It certainly is a valuable comment especially coming from someone who can't tell the difference between heat insulation and duct tape

 

I guess you dont even know what you put on your car.... This picture deffinately shows duct tape and zip ties. Buy a hose connector.. I would not even install this piece of crap on an Aveo....

 

Close up, just in case your blind.... If your going to do something, do it right before you post pictures.. Unless you like being made fun of....

 

First of all be nice.

It looks like the duct tape and zip ties are just holding the heat wrap on. The proper way to do it would be to use the same type of metal clamps that hold the intercooler piping on.

 

And this definitely shows what you are capable of installing and where. With this said please, if you want to post crap, go elsewhere. Stop posting useless garbage here.
Thank you.

 

RG
This all is work in progress. I am waiting on a box of good quality t-clamps and couplers to be delivered any day. The tubing will most likely be done differently, with a thinner 2" tube later on. there is a million things, that I would like to have done and eventually it will get done. It has barely been 2-3 month since I have made a decision to built this system, and put down my first sketch on a piece of paper. This is a very rough built. It is loud, it looks kinda ugly... but the bottom line is it works and runs. Look at RP os Mazsport Scott. It took the what? A couple of years to get the systems right?

 

i have to say nice for staying cool man .... it takes alot of guts to do what you did.... and all from nothing..... i mean putting the turbo in was hard but you made one from point 0 .... that is something... nice work.. keep us up to date and keep the pics coming i want to know how it goes man....

 

I definitely wasn't getting on your case. I was just pointing out why you did it as you were getting flamed for it. It's pretty cool that you've got a system that works so quickly. You'll always be tinkering with it in some way or another. I can't leave anything alone for too long before trying to find a way to improve it.

 

Applauding your work! Don't pay any attention to the jealous hecklers. Everyone uses zip ties for mock-up and fab work; you don't need nasty nay-sayers to remind you that tools like tape and ties are temporary. I can't wait to see the finished product!

 

I still say you should perfect the setup and offer to sell the muffler turbo piece. Most folks can figure out how to buy and run the pipe back themselves.

I'm very impressed with the setup.

 

You might be right, but there is A LOT to do before it is perfected.
So far, I keep rolling mileage on it as it is, though in cases it leaks boost (about to be addressed) and i haven't even tried to tinker with the int-x to get a better tune. I say it works OK. Especially fun on the freeway. Like riding a jet. Just tap the throttle and the low bassy RRRRRR switches into SSSSSSS and she just takes off. Just watch out for that speed, as it comes up real fast. Lots of fun :-)

RG, I wasn't implying that you were on my case, not by any means man. Guys thanks everyone for your support. I appreciate it.