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Old 02-02-2009, 11:07 PM
  #326  
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Yeah, I would say you're fine but if you want to get a compression test just so you know.

Vacuum isn't everything, but it can tell you a story right after a detonation event/odd noise and your vacuum is lower than usual- that is usually bad news bears.
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Old 02-02-2009, 11:16 PM
  #327  
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Originally Posted by chickenwafer
Yeah, I would say you're fine but if you want to get a compression test just so you know.

Vacuum isn't everything, but it can tell you a story right after a detonation event/odd noise and your vacuum is lower than usual- that is usually bad news bears.
as far as I know I've never had detonation. So I'm going to leave it at that and not worry...for now.
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Old 02-03-2009, 10:56 AM
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I am at 18-19 warm idle. That is with 1/2oz per gallon mmo premix.
premix at 1 oz/per gallon and vacuum will go up about a point.
vacuum leaks are isidious---raise the speed to 2k--no load on engine and see if the reading is differant. if it is --you probably have a leak somewhere.
OD
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Old 02-03-2009, 12:05 PM
  #329  
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Good Idea OD - I am gonna try that.
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Old 02-03-2009, 02:52 PM
  #330  
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Originally Posted by chickenwafer
Damn, after hearing about your guys vacuum numbers, my motor is badass! I get 21-22 inches cold, 18-19 warmed up, 17 at the lowest with both rad fans howling and the A/C on. My motor is pretty new with under 4,000 miles, tho. Premix and Sohn adapter FTW.
Who rebuilt your motor?
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Old 02-03-2009, 05:13 PM
  #331  
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Originally Posted by chickenwafer
Damn, after hearing about your guys vacuum numbers, my motor is badass! I get 21-22 inches cold, 18-19 warmed up, 17 at the lowest with both rad fans howling and the A/C on. My motor is pretty new with under 4,000 miles, tho. Premix and Sohn adapter FTW.

Kane- I wish I had your problem with running too rich. I run too lean when I go to 12psi. I've tried a few runs but every time it wants to lean out on my. Still trying to get Jeff to work with me on a tune....
+1, original motor, 35400 miles, 17,400 of them boosted. Measured with an Autometer Sports Comp Digital gauge fed by both of the nipples on the lower intake manifold.

What kind of boost/vac gauges are you all using?
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Old 02-03-2009, 06:10 PM
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yes it is a good idea to make a t fitting so you can measure vacuum from both ports at the same time
i have seen some measure from only one
OD
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Old 02-04-2009, 07:16 PM
  #333  
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Originally Posted by olddragger
I am at 18-19 warm idle. That is with 1/2oz per gallon mmo premix.
premix at 1 oz/per gallon and vacuum will go up about a point.
vacuum leaks are isidious---raise the speed to 2k--no load on engine and see if the reading is differant. if it is --you probably have a leak somewhere.
OD
thanks, I will give this a try!

I just started using MMO premix btw...have not been thru a full tank with it yet.
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Old 02-04-2009, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Bastage
+1, original motor, 35400 miles, 17,400 of them boosted. Measured with an Autometer Sports Comp Digital gauge fed by both of the nipples on the lower intake manifold.

What kind of boost/vac gauges are you all using?
my boost/vac gauge is the AEM tru-boost with built in boost controller....but I have mine coming off the vfad nipple...should I move it elsewhere? I thought this location was ok.
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Old 02-04-2009, 07:36 PM
  #335  
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Originally Posted by morkusyambo
Who rebuilt your motor?
It's actually a Mazda reman, surprisingly enough. It's been premixed with Idemitsu since day one, proper warm up/cool down observed, and proper break in. And I never go into boost until coolant temps are at least 160F and oil temps are above 140ish, especially since I run thick Castrol GTX 20W-50.
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Old 02-04-2009, 07:56 PM
  #336  
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Originally Posted by chickenwafer
It's actually a Mazda reman, surprisingly enough. It's been premixed with Idemitsu since day one, proper warm up/cool down observed, and proper break in. And I never go into boost until coolant temps are at least 160F and oil temps are above 140ish, especially since I run thick Castrol GTX 20W-50.
whats considered a proper "break in" i have heard soo many different ways for this...
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Old 02-04-2009, 09:14 PM
  #337  
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2004 RX-8 GT VR

GReddy turbo, Xede EMS/boost controller, RC Engineering fuel injectors, RB MOP mod, ported (engine #2), ACT clutch
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Old 02-04-2009, 09:34 PM
  #338  
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Originally Posted by Bastage
+1, original motor, 35400 miles, 17,400 of them boosted. Measured with an Autometer Sports Comp Digital gauge fed by both of the nipples on the lower intake manifold.

What kind of boost/vac gauges are you all using?
I use my greddy profec boost controller as a vac/boost guage and it is on the VFAD nipple - i wonder if you get a higher reading from the lower manifold ?
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Old 02-04-2009, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Brettus
I use my greddy profec boost controller as a vac/boost guage and it is on the VFAD nipple - i wonder if you get a higher reading from the lower manifold ?
I was wondering the same myself
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Old 02-05-2009, 01:49 PM
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in therory it should not matter---but i have always tried to get the most secure/cleanest port available---the one with the least likehood of any leak.
OD
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Old 02-05-2009, 01:52 PM
  #341  
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/\ what about in practice
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Old 02-05-2009, 02:06 PM
  #342  
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Add me to your page one
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Old 02-05-2009, 03:59 PM
  #343  
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Originally Posted by gregs
whats considered a proper "break in" i have heard soo many different ways for this...
Vary RPM and load situations, didn't beat the **** out of the motor, always let is warm up and cool down. I didn't go past 6,000 rpm for the first 300 miles (hopefully didn't carbon my motor up!). I was told this by a rotary engine builder on how-to break in.

I dunno if it worked or not, but my motor is happy right now.
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Old 02-05-2009, 04:21 PM
  #344  
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hmm..that might explain a portion of mine i bought mine at 6 miles and from that day on it was mandatory to to average a few redlines a day while on my drives...lol i also turbo charged the engine at about 3k miles
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Old 02-05-2009, 05:01 PM
  #345  
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AZ

Originally Posted by Brettus
I use my greddy profec boost controller as a vac/boost guage and it is on the VFAD nipple - i wonder if you get a higher reading from the lower manifold ?
Never use the lower manifold nipples for ANYTHING.
The signal is noisy and only represents the response from one rotor at a time. It "pops" on each intake cycle.
Use the VFAD nipple or split the nipple that goes to the vacuum tank for the SSV/VDI/AIR solenoids.
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Old 02-05-2009, 07:54 PM
  #346  
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
Never use the lower manifold nipples for ANYTHING.
The signal is noisy and only represents the response from one rotor at a time. It "pops" on each intake cycle.
Use the VFAD nipple or split the nipple that goes to the vacuum tank for the SSV/VDI/AIR solenoids.

That's funny, my gauge isn't registering any noise. I get pretty consistent boost/vac readings and I'm using both of those nipples and a T-connector.

Anyone else using these, and are you seeing noise?
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Old 02-05-2009, 10:58 PM
  #347  
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I'll have to double check my vac set-up and get back to you..... I think just my boost gauge is on it (which doesn't really matter) and my BOV.
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Old 02-05-2009, 11:35 PM
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I am using what my original GReddy kit recommended, the one after the throttle body. I joined both lower intake nipples with a hose, I should cap them, but I haven't had any problems with it yet. Will joining them have any effect?
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Old 02-06-2009, 10:49 AM
  #349  
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you t the 2 nipples together--mm may mean to not just use one of them?
no noise from these that I can tell--although every car can be differant?
I use the lower ones also because I dont have anything else attached to them. They are dedicated only for readings etc this way.
OD
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Old 02-07-2009, 01:52 PM
  #350  
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Yeay! Today I got a little suprise in the form of boosting to 10.8 psi on the greddy kit.. scared the hell out of me.. I was like.. Whoa.. where did that power come from!? It's a damn good thing I didn't blow anything.. I guess I'm gonna have to look at my wastegate tommorow to see if anything fell off. I guess with 10.8 psi.. I guess that tells me I dont' have a boost leak anywhere
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