jayrerickson

I been running N2O for a while now and would like to clear some things up.

A dry kit gets its fuel from the injectors. You still use 2 jets, 1 for n2o and 1 for the return line for the fuel. Once the fuel solenoid is activated it blocks the return line and raises injector psi pushing more fuel in. You control how much is blocked by the size of the jet. Don't know how this works with the 8 with out a return line. Someone said a dry kit wont effect A/F. That is wrong. A dry kit will blow the engine way easier from the A/F being off (less control).

The reason a 50 shot is ok on a dry kit is the injectors only run at 80-90% duty cycle. A 100 shot will max the injectors out at 110-120% duty cycle. At this point the injectors start to spray funny and doesn't atomize the fuel right. Plus you would have to worry about the fuel pump being able to handle it.

IMO a wet kit should be used for any shot. You have more control over the tune. You can safely spray more.

If you do go the n2o route, don't go cheap. You need to keep everything the same for every run. Means you need a bottle heater, n2o gauge, purge, fuel gauge and most of all, a fogger nozzle. Nothing is worse then not atomizing the mixer right and get intake back fire.

The bottle should be at a 30* angle and pointing to the front. 2 reasons, 1 the tube inside the tank is at that angle pointed down into the corner, like the pic above. 2 when you take off it pushes all the n2o to the bottom of the tank. Giving you a better chance not to get air in your line in the middle of your run. Very bad things could happen if air gets in the line when your running it.

You can run it at the track. The only thing you need is a blow by tube exhausting out side the car. If it is for auto X and they have rules. Rules are rules, just follow them.

The best kit I have had is one I made myself. 3 big shot solenoids, 1 for fuel, 1 for N2o and 1 for purge. You want your purge line to be short as possible. No reason to waste n2o when the only point of it is to clear the air out of the line. From the cool factor to the cost of n2o. Saving n2o is better. Make sure the line from the fuel and n2o solenoids are the same length. You don't want one spraying before the other.

I use 2 switches. 1 for the bottle heater and 1 to arm the system. Then I have a push button for the purge (a little red one). Then a WOT switch. I have used an RPM switch and I didn't like it. Really the only time you would use it is from a dig. What I do is have everything ready for the stage. Turn off the system, take off in first and once it hit 2nd, I flip the switch. A wide band and a EGT gauge is always good. It will tell you to let off if something isn't right.

I could go on and on but you get the points. To have a nice effective n2o set up, you need a lot more then you think.

Side note...
A 10lb will last you around 8 1/4 runs with a 100 shot. I had 2 10lbs hooked up together and they lasted me a weekend. This was at the track and street but mostly the street.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

We are talking RX-8's here buddy, no return fuel line and you cannot tune for nitrous with an RX-8. Some good points though.

jayrerickson

Thats why I said I don't know how a dry kit works with out a return line like the 8. Should be using a wet kit any ways.

You can tune a wet kit on any car. Adjusting jets, timing, fuel psi and bottle psi will effect the tune of the car. Those are the things you want to adjust over the ecu.

You would tune the ecu for N/A. Then tune the kit itself for the use of n2o. For a single stage of n2o you never tune the ecu for it. Your not running it 24/7. Having a normal tune in the ecu for n2o, the engine would run like **** with out the n2o.

So when I say tune as in n2o tune. I mean adjusting the n2o system to the ecu. Not the other way around. Unless you are using a stand alone with n2o capabilities.

WaitingforFI

iTrader: (1)

Carbon,
do you mean this one: Nitrous oxide control center to turn on and off nitrous siwtches and systems. Billet aluminum housing will control your nitrous oxide systems in corvette. - Nitrous control center ?

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

You can't adjust fuel pressure on an RX-8. So how would you adjust the N2O system to the RX-8?

jayrerickson

I dont think that is what he is talking about.

That one just has led's for when the switch is on.

I think he is talking about when the bottle gets to a certune psi a led will come on saying its ready. Same with the main line. A led will come on saying its full of n2o and not air.

I have had the bottle safty switch were you can adjust it to the bottle psi. Never heard of a sensor being able to tell if the line is primed or not.

I would like to see this too. Knowing your main line has no air in it is a big deal. Would also save n2o were you wouldnt have to purge as long. If the price is right, that is something I personaly would get.

jayrerickson

You adjust the fuel and n2o jets with bottle psi.

Same thing as I was saying with the heat rang for plugs. You test to find out what you need, The kit may say .028 fuel jet and .048 for n2o jet for a 100 shot but in reality your car may need a .030 fuel jet and .052 n2o jet. I had around 150 jets to find the right combination for my set up.

It depends on how your car reacts to the n2o. You keep testing (tuning the system) to match your ecu. The only thing I would change in the ecu is the BASE timing. The ecu will adjust timing on its own but only to a point. You would set the base a couple of points down. So it will retard the timing more then the stock timing would adjust. Letting you drive N/A and N2O.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

You give that a try and let me know how that goes.

jayrerickson

I already done it more then once and went very well. How do you think I got 11.1 comp to work with a 100 whp shot. (.055 n2o jet for this set up)

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Have you done it more than once on a Renesis?

jayrerickson

Not on a Renesis but it is all the same concept. I will be doing the same. Might not go as high as a 100 shot but will tune the system the same. But I will have a return line with a FPR. Will have bigger injectors so I can use the after market rails and have all AN lines. Will need a tune for N/A with the bigger injectors. Will have a street port and cermet housings. And bla bla bla. All this will be tuned for N/A not for n2o. If you tuned for n2o you would have a track car and not for the street. As it will run like crap N/A.

You are telling me you used the jets what the kit said to use? Are you looking at your A/F, timing, EGT and plugs? Those are the things that tell you what jets to use. Even a .01 in size will make a difference.

There is really no other way to tune a n2o system with out a stand alone no matter the engine. I done it on a 4, 6, 8 and a 2 cycle. You adjust the system were your A/F, timing, EGT's and plugs are all right. If you are running rich with n2o, all you do is put a smaller fuel jet in. Or put a bigger n2o jet in to compensate the extra fuel. Or raise bottle psi. You tune the system for what you need/want.

Doesnt matter what engine. You will tune the system the same way.

Like I said, test for what you need. Not what someone says.

jayrerickson

I do agree with you that I dont know the 13b and its capabilities (Not from what I read). I agree with you that certain things need to be done to this engine, like many others. I will find this out as I go, just like every other project. Right now I am in the processes on getting the housings Cermet Coated.

My only point was on the aspects of the n2o system itself. The things that you should do no matter the engine. I'm not saying what the 13b engine needs, saying this is what every engine needs. Not even the engine, more tuning in the n2o system.

Not to listen what the kit says but to listen to what the engine says and adjust the system to your engine. If you dont you will run into problems, no matter the engine.

Just pointing out the basics for running n2o. Not n2o and the 13b, just basic facts that apply to every set up.

Everything I said would still aplly if you were to put n2o on a boat. I am giving good information on what is needed to run n2o on any aplication. This includs the rx8. Still dont understand why you are giving me a hard time when all this does apply to the rx8? This is genral n2o knowledge and then you bust my ***** for it.

WaitingforFI

iTrader: (1)

For those who have nitrous I was wondering: Since when you use the system you are generally in the top of the rev range is it the equivalent of completing a carbon burn run or does the added fuel negate that?

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

I'm not sure what you mean, do you mean, does the added fuel increase carbon build up on the engine? It doesn't mean much but the engine I ran nitrous on was failing due to a bad coolant seal (not N2O related) and when it was torn apart after only 30,000 miles, it had very little carbon build up. I did run a SOHN adapter on it though and it had the BHR ignition and midpipe (no cat) from day one.

200.mph

iTrader: (9)

i havent taken my engine apart (knocks on wood) so idk. i could look inside the housings somewhat with a scope. my car sees a lot of redline but its not my dd either

WaitingforFI

iTrader: (1)

9K,
You answered my question for the most part.

I have a 2007 Auto and I am considering adding nitrous so my concern is: because the engine is RPM limited would using the nitrous just add more carbon build up to the rotors? However, judging from your answer that might not be an issue at all.

I do red line it once a day in an attempt to keep the carbon at bay.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

IMO, redlining doesn't do much to prevent carbon build up. I would saying running the SOHN adapter, changing your oil as often as feasible for you, and insuring you use the best gas possible is the best way to prevent excessive carbon build up.

Carbon8

iTrader: (4)

No, but its a great excuse

Hemp6473

This is what i have only

Hemp6473

Sencond pic

Hemp6473

3rd pic

Hemp6473

I dont know why it only allows me to upload one picture at a time.

jayrerickson

That is not what you want. That kit wont spray any kind of shot.

That is for a turbo aplication to spray the inner cooler to cool it down.

You can use most of the parts but will need a few more in order to spray any shot.

That S bar is usless to you.

Basicly, you just got what you need for a purge. You would have to research that solenoid to see if it is even capable of running a 50 shot.