no scams from them.

and foot locker is a bit bigger than mazsport..

btw, they are in the process of moving shops. to a bigger facility..

beers

 

^^^ great company, love thier mods...yeah I ordered mine at the begining of June and got it 6 days later,,,,

 

dude you are a traveling workshop! aug is not going to happen.. work is slooooowwwwwww right now. but i will make it when you settle in..

beers

 

r you guys back yet?? seriously need those coils

 

Told you... you should have just bought my car sucka!

 

I would cancel. As far as hp numbers go, any given day, you will dyno within a range and, it just tells what kind of shape the car is in. Three things go to help keep the ignition system in good check. Heat, as heat will make just about anything go bad in time depending on how long and how high of a temp it will be suseptable to. Second is the gap of the plugs. It takes more energy for the spark to make the gap if it is on the high side and, that contributes to more heat generated by the coil as it has to "work" harder to make the voltage requirement to spark especially at high rpms. I tried this with my neon and set the gap at .050 and it didnt fire as it should on the dyno over 6000 rpms. The range is .032-35 for it and set it to a tight 35 and it did well and cleared up the top end. The last is, keep your plugs changed out regularly. The dyno will tell you if it is about time and that is usually 10 to 20k miles depending on how you drive it. I have yet to see any ignition set, coil, plugs, and wires 'give' you more hp. What they will do is bring your hp back to normal by having having new parts that are more consistant than having the worn parts. Sometimes, the oem parts are defective and takes a little time to show. I make wire and cable for homes and the annealers that we use flow about 40 volts at 250 amps to anneal copper. We have had leads to brushes go out "burn up" after a couple of days and some last up to several months. Point is, you never know. The increased hp comes from more consistant spark and that leads to more complete burn at higher rpms. Who performs a dyno test at less than WOT? no one i hope. My advice is to check your plug gaps first, then check coils, then start replacing things after that. Some stock coils go bad and if buying the mazsport ignition system makes you feel better, more power to ya. This is just my thoughts on what I have seen on my own cars over the years. If you are looking for more hp, you have to increase airflow and/or cool the air to make it more dense with O.

 

You can't "gap" RX-8 plugs.
Load-cell tuning requires that you operate on the dyno at less that full load.
RX-8 coils are a known weak part.
The RX-8 is not a Neon.

 

Please share with us all!! I do not trust the gap set at the factory either.

 

you can gap any plug. reason people dont is because the iridium is so small and fragile compared to regular plugs, they are supposed to be gapped from the factory and trying to gap yourself, people have broken the tip. I never said it would be easy but if you happen to have a gap on a plug at greater than .048, @ higher rpms, (6k+) you will probably see little gaps in the graph. Second, I was talking about dynoing for full power to check and see if you are getting the numbers to the wheels at WOT to check against previous dynos to see if a mod is giving you the power it claims. I was not talking about AF ratios. Checking HP properly is done at WOT when you have the greatest load on the engine, plugs, compression, ect. I know my neon is not an 8 but the principle of pressure and firing a plug under load is still ( according to physics) the same principle. The coils are electrial parts and fail for various reasons. The main reason any electrical part will fail is heat. I work with tranformers (better known as big coils). They produce heat based on what kind of load is on them. The ones we used generate over 400 amps @ 40 volts. The volts are not much but the amps will kill ya. 40k volts will make your hair stand up but will hurt you as you apply more amps to it. Higher voltage is needed to make the jump in the gap and the higher volts will load the coils and makes more heat and will deteriorate the coils if done in hot humid weather for long times and you dont have adequate airflow to cool the coil. This happens in the 8. The coils are rated high enough to handle this but at the street level with less load/time. I am not disagreeing with you about the coils being weak. They are adequate for the regular driver that doesnt get the car over 6k very often for any real length of time. track racing or high speed racing, you may want to get an upgrade to better coils but few people fall into this and those that do, have gotten the upgrade. Last, please dont ridicule me before asking what i meant. Application has a lot to do with what kind of parts you want/need for your car.

 

Almost forgot. If you took a brand new 8 and put the upgrade coil on it. It will not dyno any better numbers than a new 8. If it were to, means you had a bad coil(s) on it from the factory.

 

I put the mazsport on my 07 RX8 6MT with 5K miles on it and it felt stronger and it was confirmed with the GTEC pro SS. Picked up around 4 Peak HP and it helped smooth out some of the dips in the HP curve. Same tank of gas, same road, same outside temp and almost identical humidity. I tested it several times before and several times afterwards and the numbers were consistantly better after the ignition upgrade. At 8-9K RPM a strong a very spark helps so much and the mazsport coils produce a very strong spark.

I got my mazsport kit on the initial release but if I had to do it over I would get the BHR coil upgrade, easier to install and it does not add extra parts which take up space but the most important thing is performance and they both perform very well.

 

^............Fixed it for you Ray. With the right size screwdriver(let's say) and enough leverage, you could conceivably change that gap!
Never underestimate what people might be willing to attempt!

 

but you have Taj! you can't possibly be within reason

 

omg so true....

Taj PM

 

I can run 5 times on the same dyno back to back all 5 and get 5 different readings. I am saying it wont give you any hp cause you have not changed anything. Unless you change the fuel/air ratio, let it breathe better on either end, or help the temp of the air coming in, ie cooler, then it is not going to give you a single hp more than a stock ignition working correctly. I have done 5 runs at the same time before and got 5 different readings and there was about 2-4 hp difference between the top and bottom. To make more power, everyone knows that you have to be able to burn more fuel. you are going to have fluctuation in each run anyway. 4 hp change doesnt mean anything on the 8. I get that everytime I dyno it.

 

Maybe. Not disagreeing with you on that but, some people try it anyway and they are not always accurate from the manufacturer either. I do agree that the 8s plugs are not your normal plugs by any means but, that doesnt mean that people dont try stupid things from time to time. I have never gapped my plugs either but when I have a set that doesnt run as it should, it is the first place to start as far as the ignition goes is all. I am not trying to fight here, just getting people to think is all. My philosophy is, if you are not sure, ask someone who is. There is always someone out there that knows a better way.

 

I have ran 3 times on the same dyno and have got all the same reading with a 55 shot nitrous before, it is not impossible, your car just sucks

 

nothing wrong with my car. Funny how people resort to being rude. Believe what you want to. Every time you run your car, it is not going to run exactly the same every time. It will run within about 2% of top to bottom. If you want to believe that my car sucks, go ahead, it runs just fine. I have not had any problems out of it engine wise. I dont see why some people have to be rude. Just say what you think in a civil manner. Rudeness is for uncivil people.

 

i think you will be proven wrong with this statement. a set of coils is being beta tested.

back to back runs with the new coils vs mazdas last version of the oem coil. with ~ 8k miles on them..

the hp difference was ~ 10 hp..

i am sure scott will put up the dyno in the near future...

beers

 

Taj was not being rude - he was being Taj . Read some of his other posts and you will see what I mean .....

 

just came across as rude. I have had back to back runs and have never gotten exactly the same graph. I use a dynojet here in atlanta. I do believe that a better rated coil will give you more consistant numbers but not more hp. The 'extra' hp will come from the difference in the stock vs the upgrade being able to fire more consistantly due to timing. My point is, the potential hp in stock form is x amount and when everthing is firing as it should you will get that x amount. When everything is not firing as it should you will get y amount and will be lower. I would like to see someone buy a new 8, put it on a dyno after breakin, put new coils on it, make a run, then put upgrade coils on it and make a run same day, same gas, same dyno, and see what they get. IF they get more hp, I stand corrected, if not, then there is the proof. That is the only way to see if the upgrade coil is giving hp is to test brand new for both under same conditions. No miles on either set, test right out of the box on both. I dont think anyone has done that and, I do think that the stock coils are not meant to last as well as the upgrade but $600 is a good bit to 120 for regular oem coils. Actually I am thinking of getting the upgrade but 600 is steep for me at the moment so not going to. My car is making 194 at the wheels. My car is doing just fine.

 

^ your mom's rude also

that's how I am man :D

 

the thing is even new stock coils arent firing exactly the way they should. the stock ignition is ****, thats why we see gains wih upgrded coils and ignitor box.

 

I just wish I'd get my ignition upgrade. I wonder if its possible to file suit for opportunity cost of the 600.00 I paid for the kit? I paid over a month ago, and had it been in stock I'd be fine. But had I known it was goign to be over a month, that 600.00 in a high interest savings account at 3% APR would've yeilded me..... a extra 1.50. I'm totally kidding.

 

I don't understand how a vendor can take someones money and not supply a product in a timely fashion.
I have been under the impression that when you pay for something it should be in your hand when the cash arrives in the sellers hand.
Right hand, Left hand.
Simple way to do business.

As for you quazmosis, you have a lot more patience than I have.