sammytcl

iTrader: (1)

I have installed the greddy turbo with interceptor-x and greddy profec b spec II boost controller. This is my 1st time with turbo, and I have no idea on how to set the profec b. My goal is to set 6psi on low boost & 8psi on high boost. Can someone kindly share their experience with the set up, and also explain on the following settings?

Lo Set ? %
Lo ? kPa/psi
Lo Gain ? %
Lo Set Gain ? kPa/psi (Start Boost)
Lo Warning ? kPa/psi

Hi Set ? %
Hi ? kPa/psi
Hi Gain ? %
Hi Set Gain ? kPa/psi (Start Boost)
Hi Warning ? kPa/psi

Thanks and regards,

Sammy

BigOLundh

iTrader: (1)

EDITED: Removed all the horrible information

Moostafa29

Find out what your baseline psi is. Mine is 8psi with no boost controller on. I have the same as you, and with my high settings, its at 12psi.

BigOLundh

iTrader: (1)

HOLY F... i stumbled accross this thread and wanted to correct myself before anyone else listens to what i said.

On the Profec B Type S -
Set the gain to 12 O'Clock (midway up)
This will set your gain near even.
If you want to boost later and sharper (big kick) - increase your gain (great for impressing the skirts)
If you want to boost sooner and more gradual (less kick) - decrease your gain (great for accelerating out of a turn without having fear of your car kicking out when the boost hits)

Set Low Boost to 12 O'Clock (midway up)
This will set your low boost to where the turbo would normally boost without any additional pressure. The amount of that boost can be calculated based on your wastegate (NOTE - do not adjust the wastegate manually to adjust boost levels. That is what a boost controller is for)

Set High Boost to 12 O'Clock (midway up)
This will set your high boost about 4lbs (i need to double check that number) higher than your normal boost pressure.
If you want more or less boost in low/high boost modes.. adjust accordingly

With my setup (all at 12 o'clock) - this has low boost at around .5 bars and high boost near .8 bars.

-hS

epitrochoid

..just a note, but the profec b spec II is digital...so 12 o'clock means 50%

I have my low gain at 10 (8psi), and my high gain at 35 (9-9.5 psi)...i haven't touched the wastegate arm yet, although im considering it so I can hold boost higher in the rpm range. i havent really had a chance to set the "set gain", although i need to because my car attracts a dangerous amount of skirts lol

Moostafa29

You really have to create your own settings. You can use others as a baseline, but I think everyone's will be different. I tried another users settings for what worked for him, but it was all wrong for my car/setup. Just want to make sure you keep that in mind.

epitrochoid

absolutely...

i have to adjust mine +/- 5% whenever the temperature changes signifigantly

tdiddy

THREADSURRECTION!!!!

Anybody currently using the GReddy Profec B Spec II? I have one installed and I am looking for other peoples settings to use for comparison. I know I need to determine what my baseline boost pressure is with the controller turned off and that my settings will be different than someone else's but any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

mysql

turning the **** thing directly sets the boost level. Start low and keep going up till your desired boost is reached.

putting the mode button gives you a setting that seems to adjust how quickly it spools. I raised the number till I was getting 6 psi at 3k rpm and 11 psi at 4k rpm. When raising this number, it's a good idea to lower the boost level setting in case this adjustment causes spiking.

the third setting I haven't done much with.

Grouch

I found these detailed instructions at another board (haven't tried it yet, but looks useful and I'll try it out this weekend):

Quote, originally posted by whizbang18T »
i set one up on my buddie's car (fwd sr20det) ... the instructions on the evo forums confuse me. anyhow, now that i know how it works - there's really not much to it.
how i did it ...

1) change the units to psi as documented in the manual.
2) turn off the boost controller
3) do a test run to see max psi - this is max boost set by the wastegate only. make note of it.
4) determine % increase for desired boost.

say wastegate boost is 10psi, and your desired boost is 14.5psi.


dB = desired Boost
wB = wastegate Boost

((dB-wB)/wB)*100 = %

in our case:
((14.5-10)/10)*100 = 45%

5) SET = 45% in this case
6) GAIN = do not touch yet ... leave @ 0% for now
7) SET GAIN (aka START BOOST) = dB - 4psi ... 10.5psi for this scenario

WARNING = dB + 1psi ... 15.5psi in this case
9) LIMITER = 4%
10) go for a test run. you will notice that the boost doesn't build smoothly. this is where u adjust the GAIN. bump up the GAIN by 5% increments. then retest after each increment. if it starts to overshoot your desired boost, then you've gone too high. back it down 1% at a time 'til it no longer overshoots desired boost.

that's it ... pretty simple

how do u know what your desired boost should be? learn to read a compressor map

NOTE: if your max boost @ SET is higher/lower than desired, adjust as necessary ... it's not dead-on accurate


Here is some info I found on another forum (SRT) that should help you out:

Definitions and things you need to know before you start:

SET This is how you set the boost pressure. Rather than setting it in psi or kPa, the Greddy unit allows you to adjust it as a percentage value, from 0% (greddy unit essentially turned off) to 100% (greddy unit will set the boost as high as it can). This setup demands a certain amount of trial-and-error to properly configure it since you have to make adjustments, then drive under WOT (Wide Open Throttle) and see what the maximum boost pressure achieved was throughout the entire RPM range. SET SHOULD BE SET TO A CONSERVATIVE VALUE WHEN BEGINNING TO TUNE YOUR GREDDY UNIT. 30% SEEMS TO BE A CONSERVATIVE SETTING BASED ON MY TESTING AND BASED ON OTHER REPORTED NUMBERS FROM EVO OWNERS AND TAKING INTO CONSIDERATION THE LINK BETWEEN SET AND GAIN (see GAIN below).

GAIN is defined in the manual as the value to adjust the "boost consistency". You don't really need to know exactly what that means. You should set GAIN to 0 when beginning, and you will then test the car under WOT while paying attention to the boost pressure. If the boost goes up and then falls off at higher RPM, you will want to increase the GAIN by a conservative amount (5% should be relatively conservative to begin with, then when you want to fine-tune it, you can go down to intervals of 1%). When you increase the GAIN value, the corresponding boost that you will go up to will be higher even if you leave the SET value alone. GAIN SHOULD BE SET TO 0 WHEN BEGINNING TO TUNE YOUR GREDDY UNIT.

START BOOST (also known as SET GAIN because that is what is displayed on the unit when adjusting this setting) is the lowest boost that the Greddy unit will begin increasing the boost from under WOT. You want this to be as close to the SET value as possible, since you want to keep as close to your desired boost as possible. However, setting it too close to the SET value will cause the boost to spike. You should set this to a conservative setting when beginning to tune your Greddy unit. Then you can fine-tune it later to get it as close to the SET value as possible without causing the boost to spike. Fortunately, you can set this in psi or kPa, thankfully Greddy didn't decide to let this be adjustable in % like the SET value. START BOOST SHOULD BE SET TO YOUR DESIRED BOOST PRESSURE MINUS 4 PSI (about 28 kPa).

WARNING is the maximum boost that you do not want to exceed. Fortunately, you can also set this in psi or kPa like the START BOOST value. When the boost exceeds the WARNING level, it will kick in the LIMITER, which decreases the boost a certain amount that you can set. WARNING SHOULD BE SET TO YOUR DESIRED BOOST PRESSURE PLUS 1 PSI (about 7 kPa).

LIMITER is the boost percentage that the Greddy unit will lower to when the WARNING boost pressure is hit. LIMITER SHOULD BE SET TO YOUR SET VALUE MINUS 4%.

PEAK is the peak boost value that the unit has seen since the last time it was cleared. To clear it, go to the peak boost display, and hold down the set **** until the unit beeps and "---" is displayed. IT IS A GOOD IDEA TO CLEAR THIS BEFORE YOU BEGIN JUST IN CASE YOUR UNIT HAS A HIGH BOOST ALREADY RECORDED.

LAST BOOST shows you the last boost that was recorded every time the accelerator is released for 3 seconds. TURN LAST BOOST ON BECAUSE IT IS A GOOD DIAGNOSTIC TOOL WHEN TUNING YOUR UNIT.

Keep in mind that when displaying in kPa, it does not show it technically in kPa, but rather misleadingly in bars, which Greddy inconveniently tries to justify by sticking x100 kPa next to the display. Therefore, 100 kPa will be displayed as 1.00 x100 kPa. Psi will also unfortunately be displayed in psi x10 so that 19 psi will show as 190, adding to the confusion.

Another very important thing to keep in mind is that when you first power on your car or the Greddy unit, WARNING will be set to 14.5 psi (100kPa, or 1 bar) until you interact with the Greddy unit by pressing any button. This "feature" is not documented in the manual.

Also keep in mind that atmospheric conditions affect the operation of your boost controller. When it is hot, you will get different results than when it is cold. One possible way of solving this issue is tuning your Greddy unit under the "Lo" mode for when it is relatively cold, and under the "High" mode for when it is relatively hot. Unfortunately, two modes are hardly enough for somebody that needs to account for very different summer and winter climates, and also for more aggressive settings for when increased performance is desired.

The maximum boost that you will see is also not consistent throughout the gears, which adds even more to the confusion. Unfortunately, if you've already increased your start boost to the maximum setting that doesn't give you surging, then there seems to be no way to get around this variance in boost pressure from low to high gears. I don't know if this is a limitation of the greddy unit specifically, or if it's something inherent to electronic boost controllers in general. The only two things that you can do to compensate is the following:

1. Set it to the "safest" of the settings that does not trip your limiter. To do this, tune the unit to your desired boost pressure in fifth gear.

2. Tune the "Lo" and "Hi" settings corresponding to having the boost maximized during the low gears and during the high gears. This would require you to manually hit the button to switch to the "Hi" setting when you shift to third gear or whatever you started tuning your "Hi" setting at. This is why Greddy makes the wireless remote switch that straps to your steering wheel to switch between "Hi" and "Lo" settings.

The following steps should be taken in exactly this order, taking into consideration all of the previous information:
1. Change boost pressure units to psi if so desired (see manual).
2. Set WARNING to your desired boost pressure plus 1 psi (about 7 kPa) (see above).
3. Set START BOOST (SET GAIN) to your desired boost pressure minus 4 psi (about 28 kPa)(see above).
4. Clear PEAK boost value (see above).
5. Set LAST BOOST to ON (see above).
6. Set GAIN to 0 (see above).
7. Set SET to 30% (see above).
8. Set LIMITER to SET minus 4% (26% if you followed #7).
9. Test for boost falloff at high rpm. You should probably do this in a wide open area with no other cars nearby and preferably no cops. It is also good to have somebody in the car with you that can watch the gauge while you concentrate on not wrecking your car. If there is no boost falloff, then go to #10. If there is boost falloff, then increase the GAIN by 5% and test again. Keep in mind that when you increase the GAIN value, the corresponding boost that you will go up to will be higher even if you leave the SET value alone. Repeat until the boost pressure does not decrease, or until you feel surging. If you feel surging and the boost pressure still decreases (not sure if this is possible) then decrease to the last level that you did not feel surging at.
10. Increase SET by 2% and adjust LIMITER accordingly, then test again. Keep increasing by 2% until desired boost level is obtained.
11. Increase START BOOST (SET GAIN) by 1 increment and test until surging is felt or the WARNING level is hit and the display turns red, then decrease to the previous setting.

Once you have followed these steps, you will have roughly tuned your unit. To fine-tune it, repeat steps 9 and 10 except this time only increase or decrease by 1 increment.

Here are some number that some of the people on the board are using.
I would start from the base and work from there. Every car will be different.

Low setting is at 15 psi, with no dropoff. with the 12-15psi W/G spring.
LO--
Set Boost: 30%
Gain: 20 psi
Set Gain: 23 psi

High setting is set at 18 and has about a 2 psi drop off. Unless you are completely in it, there is compressor surge when shifting within your low RPM range. So this setting is really completely useless for normal street driving.
HI--
Set Boost: 45%
Gain: 20 psi
Set Gain: 38 psi


Adding the in the end for Big turbo guys with Wastegates that have a top and bottom nipple.

If you are running the profec B spec II EBC then your line setup will be as follows:
On the solenoid - make sure that you have "nipples" couming out of COM & NC port. Also make sure those are in tight - as any leaks would screw everything up. Then, run a line from the compressor side of the turbo to the bottom part of the wastegate.
Measure how much line you need to go from the TOP of the wastegate to the COM port. Run that line & hook everything up. Then find a good place to "T"-into the first line that we run & put a plastic T in it. & from that nipple run a line over to the NC port on your solenoid.
Recap - COmpressor to bottom of the wastegate - also tinto this line & take it to NC port. Then run a line from COM to the TOP of the wastegate. & you're all done.

Wastegate is being closed shut by the spring inside of it. You run a line from the turbo compressor to the bottom of the wastegate. As the turbo builds pressure so will the pressure on the underside of the wastegate increase. This will push up on the spring & open up the wastegate. Now, it is obvious that any leaks in this line would result in no pressure buildup on the bottom of the wastegate so it would never open. Causing your boost to keep rising.... So, - when you T into this line it goes to the NC port (Normally Closed). So, no leaks would develop. Now, top of the wastegate is open to atmosphere. BUT - with profec - when the solenoid activates - it will open the port from NC to the COM (com goes to NC & NO - & when one is open the other is closed). SO, what is going on now is that you're sending pressure from the turbo to the upper part of the wastegate as well & this will press down together with the spring to keep the wastegate shut. So, boost keeps rising. Once desided boost is achieved - the solenoid will start closing a bit - shutting off the pressure going to the top part of the wastegate & causing the wastegate to start opening. ALso, every time you're sending pressure to the upper part of the wastegate - you're also decreasing pressure to the bottom part of it. & vice versa. /

from: http://www.elitedubs.com/index.php/topic,741.0.html

flyboi1121

wow what a write up.. haha thanks a lot. I got a the greddy profec b spec 2 too and this will be very helpful!

Grouch

just remember all the numbers they are using relate to a different application

tdiddy

Thank you, Grouch! Hopefully, I will be using these instructions this weekend.