Yeah - replied.

I am diving all week (outside no computer); so my free time is way downhill; but I'll try to keep up as best I can.

 

Thinking of sending my greddy back (unused) which I got for 4k and get the esmeril for 4.9k from mazdaparts. I got the int-x . Sound good?

 

whatever floats your boat

 

Does anyone know how long the oil line into the turbo is? From this document I believe it is 800mm but wanted to make sure.

Cheers

Andrew

 

The one that comes in the GReddy kit is 32" long.
The oil line I use in the upgrade is 36" long.

 

Thanks wasnt for me btw, was a guy here with the kit. Have you shipped any/many of the upgrade kits to Aus?

 

What spark plugs do you guys use with your turbo kit? I'm using colder plugs from NGK number 9 and 10. Recently its getting harder to get the car started, the idle gets very rough at cold start. Once warmed about 3 min car return to normal idle. Any suggestions on what type of plug is best to use? I went with colder plugs cuz its better when under heavy load. But... Any ideas? I did the windshield fluid into maintaince port twice already for the pass 2 month =(.

 

I use all trailing plugs

 

I use rx7 plugs with shims...
I think all trailing is recommended....I can't remember though.....hopefully someone will chime in because I would like to know that as well...

edit: I was right...thanks Brice

 

http://www.sparkplugs.com/results_ap...1&AAIA=1192496

good prices here(NGK's), but you can probably get them for about the same at napa or autozone or whatever auto parts store you like

 

I just got done doin a complete drain and flush on my 8 cuz it wouldnt start. First of all with a FI setup it is recommended to run trailing plugs on all four. 10 is probably too cold of a plug, assuming u use for leading. Either way 9 are just fine unless u have extensiveley modified the car ie injectors, rails, etc.

In my case my CF hood's vents sit right over my air intake filter so I sucked in a bunch of water. I took all 4 plugs off, which were flooded, disconnected the crank angle sensor, and turned the ignition key with the gas pedal floored for 7 sec to cut the injectors off like 10 times. You will hear a pssh pssh pssh sound which is a good sound meaning u have compression still. As this sound is going on all the junk in the chambers is pushed out. once everything is cleaned, put new plugs in. I used the 5 and 9 s cuz I was gonna need the hotter plug due to the crud in the engine. reconnect the crank sensor and try to start the engine. I disconnect the line that goes above the intake manifold to the brake booster from the check valve and poured three caps of ATF and pushed it through with a few sprays of starter fluid. It smoked to all hell but it came on. I did a drain and flush to get the rest of the water and crap that was in the engine out and reserviced bow im good to go. If u get stuck bro DO NOT PUSH START the rx8. They come with a CF driveshaft that can be sheared off if u do. If u wanna push start it, put the car in 6th gear with the key in the on position and get sumone to pull u at about 15 mph. The car will be on by the end of the block. Hope this helps....I shud post this in the troubleshooting section I guess....

 

Uh, no.

First of all, if "shearing" the driveshaft were an issue, the power from the motor would be more than adequate to do it. Push-starting it is not going to be a problem.
Second, if you ARE worried about "shearing" your driveshaft, you would want to push start the car in the lowest gear possible as the loads on the shaft would increase as you go to higher gears.

That said, you want to use a low gear so that the engine is spun to the highest possible RPM for the relatively low speed that the vehicle will be moving when you push it.

 

ok 9 sounds good. But I got 4 550cc injectors on my 8. Will trail 9 plugs still be good?

 

yes - why wouldn't they be ?

and +1 on what MM said re push starting - 2nd gear is best BTW . 1st is more likely to just lock up the rear wheels at the speed someone can push you .

 

That is what I originally thought as well, especially with boost setup, but the mazda tech I spoke with, who happens to actually be a rotory head, explained to me that this is one of the methods they use to get the cars started at the dealer and is a precaution because in 1st the wheels can lock up, seize the diff, and that will cause the actual sheering. That is also why the manual tells u not to push start the car. I figured these guys probably knew sumthing I didnt so I followed the advice and just thought to pass it on. I will continue to do more research on the matter and will report back.....

 

I bought my kit used and would like to replace all the gaskets. Does anyone know where I can buy a complete package?? I talked to greddy and they wont sell them ala carte. Thank you!

~Adam

 

/\ you can go to any auto parts store and buy gasket material then make your own .

 

Or www.atpturbo.com has almost any turbo gasket you will need.

 

Ya, I saw some on there. Guess Ill have to figure out which ones I need. For the turbo to d/p gasket, which turbo is most like the Greddy turbo?? I see they have them for t3/t4 and t25 but Im not sure which one would fit best. Thanks!

 

So if I'm understanding this correct it is a safe assumption that you can no longer buy new turbo kits from Greddy???

 

/\ they are being sold by Fluid - on this very site ..... See the vendors forum

 

Dude, just look at your turbo

Turbo: http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=GSK

Downpipe: http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=GSK


GReddy started making kits again- Fluid motorsports sells them brand new

 

Ya, I can look at it all day and say, "holy ****, it looks like that one." But my point of my post was, arent all turbos different sizes?? I dont think its a one size fits all. Thats why I asked, what turbo is most like the Greddy one. I wasnt trying to come off like a retard that cant look at something and put 2 and 2 together.

 

I am missing the oil lines from my turbo kit and Jon at PTP (down the street from me) said that the Greddy fittings are their own thread pattern. Is there anything else that fits or am I SOL? I have my car torn apart for the install and I dont want to put it back together since its going to take 8 weeks to order from Greddy. Any help is appreciated.

 

You can replace it all with AN-4/1/8" NPT stuff.
You will have to tap the threads in the "T" fitting and the top of the turbo.