Originally Posted by MazsportScott

Yes JoeMamma, ttt's water temp gauge was reading C then normal but It was a connection issue at the sending unit. The running condition did not change with the gauge fluctuation. If the run condition changes that sounds more like water thermosensor problem...Scott

Originally Posted by philodox

Guys, I've recommended before.. and I'll recommend it again. The Type-S is the way to go. It's rated for low boost systems which is what the Greddy Kit is. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the Type-RS is for high boost applications.

Originally Posted by Horse

Well, the guys at Vivid Racing are running a type RS and they love it. I belive it goes type S low boost, type RS intermediate and type R for high boost. But all should be able to be tuned for any setups. The RS should just be louder and capable of standing more boost.

Originally Posted by Horse

Yes it is more expensive. But not by much I got mine brand new in the box for $150 dollars on ebay which the Type S was selling for $139.

Originally Posted by canzoomer

Some of you who are tuning have posted that the car ECU "learns" a long term fuel trim and adjusts against the tuning.
You are right!
BUT:
The car checks AFR when it is in closed loop mode.
That is below 70% throttle, and below the closed loop/open loop transition rpm.
So, what IS the transition rpm?
By measurement:
1st gear: 6,200rpm
2nd gear: 5,500rpm
3rd gear: 4,800rpm
4th gear and up - same as 3rd.

So, some lessons to derive from this:
1) Tune above transition point ( 6,200) and do NOT touch the fuel/air below 6,200 unless it is only 5% or less.
2) If you want to tune down to 5,500 avoid full throttle in 1st gear below 6,200
3) If you want it tune more, and want to get around the "learned"long term trims, simply disconnect the battery ground if the ECU "learns" a fule trim.
This returns the car to default fuel/air settings.
Of course it will "learn" again, so this is not a long term solutiion.
I installed a replacement battery groundpost that has a 1/4 turn **** to disconnect. This allows for quick and easy resets.

Also, regarding weather and temperatures:
If you tune in cold weather the air is denser.
When you run at a higher temp the air is less dense.
That means the mixture will be a bit different.
Humidity will also affect it.
The car has a barometric perssure sensor as well, so it does compensate for altitude and air pressure change due to weather, however it does not have a means for detecting humidity.
My advice, if doing fairly aggressive maps is to do a set for both cold/dry conditions and for warm/wet ones.
Save them and use as needed.

Originally Posted by rotarygod

You know this was very early in the ecu development days for this car. Alot has been learned since then.

Originally Posted by JoeMamma

I ran into the trick GReddy is using to kick the ECU into open-loop on my kit after I loaded the unlocked eManage map that was posted on this thread.

My car would have a dead dashboard temp gauge, fast idle (~2k RPM) for 5-10 seconds, then quickly settle into a proper idle after the gauge came back to life. This was caused by one of the "dongles" on the GReddy wiring loom that controls the ECT (engine temperature sensor), switching it "out" when it needs to richen the mixture and put the ECU in open loop and keep it from pulling out the additional fuel. It's a simple and effective way to get the ECU out of the way, but has the odd visual side effect of dipping the temperature gauge when in boost at low-to-mid RPM ranges.