greddy idle problems
#78
Registered
Thread Starter
blast from the past, still having an erratice idle. i replaced the o2 sensor and throttle body (IAC sensor). nothing has changed. i just ordered a MAF and air soleniod. anyone have any ideas?!?! ESS maybe?
#79
Turbo Member
iTrader: (10)
did you ever do the pressure test?
I had some terrible idle issues for awhile as well. My issue ended up being a bad solenoid for the ssv. This made the car jump really hard when on heavy throttle. I then started running very very very rich which then blew out the front O2 sensor. All of this caused a horrific idle. I also had problems with the crank shaft sensor (it was dirty).
All in all, I would check all the parts that relate to my above paragraph
I had some terrible idle issues for awhile as well. My issue ended up being a bad solenoid for the ssv. This made the car jump really hard when on heavy throttle. I then started running very very very rich which then blew out the front O2 sensor. All of this caused a horrific idle. I also had problems with the crank shaft sensor (it was dirty).
All in all, I would check all the parts that relate to my above paragraph
#80
Registered
Thread Starter
did you ever do the pressure test?
I had some terrible idle issues for awhile as well. My issue ended up being a bad solenoid for the ssv. This made the car jump really hard when on heavy throttle. I then started running very very very rich which then blew out the front O2 sensor. All of this caused a horrific idle. I also had problems with the crank shaft sensor (it was dirty).
All in all, I would check all the parts that relate to my above paragraph
I had some terrible idle issues for awhile as well. My issue ended up being a bad solenoid for the ssv. This made the car jump really hard when on heavy throttle. I then started running very very very rich which then blew out the front O2 sensor. All of this caused a horrific idle. I also had problems with the crank shaft sensor (it was dirty).
All in all, I would check all the parts that relate to my above paragraph
i just ordered the solenoid for the ssv, and i have notice that it does jump kinda hard.. i replaced the o2 already.. what will the craft shaft sensor have an effect on this?
#82
Registered
Thread Starter
#83
Turbo Member
iTrader: (10)
its on the forums.
There are three solenoids stacked one on top the other. They are located behind the UIM above the transmission. You will see that all three plug into a chamber that gets vacuum from the UIM. Each solenoid valve has a vacuum line that comes off of it that leads to the actuator (air pump, ssv, and vdi). You can test each actuator by pulling the black cap off the back of the solenoid valve and affixing a vacuum tester to it. this will test to make sure that the vacuum line that runs from the solenoid to the actuator is not leaking, it will not test the actuator itself.
Are you getting a CEL for low voltage or high voltage on the ssv actuator? If you are then I would recommend changing it out. If no CEL then I would certainly pull the UIM and check all the vacuum lines for kinks or leaks.
There are three solenoids stacked one on top the other. They are located behind the UIM above the transmission. You will see that all three plug into a chamber that gets vacuum from the UIM. Each solenoid valve has a vacuum line that comes off of it that leads to the actuator (air pump, ssv, and vdi). You can test each actuator by pulling the black cap off the back of the solenoid valve and affixing a vacuum tester to it. this will test to make sure that the vacuum line that runs from the solenoid to the actuator is not leaking, it will not test the actuator itself.
Are you getting a CEL for low voltage or high voltage on the ssv actuator? If you are then I would recommend changing it out. If no CEL then I would certainly pull the UIM and check all the vacuum lines for kinks or leaks.
#86
Registered
Thread Starter
its on the forums.
There are three solenoids stacked one on top the other. They are located behind the UIM above the transmission. You will see that all three plug into a chamber that gets vacuum from the UIM. Each solenoid valve has a vacuum line that comes off of it that leads to the actuator (air pump, ssv, and vdi). You can test each actuator by pulling the black cap off the back of the solenoid valve and affixing a vacuum tester to it. this will test to make sure that the vacuum line that runs from the solenoid to the actuator is not leaking, it will not test the actuator itself.
Are you getting a CEL for low voltage or high voltage on the ssv actuator? If you are then I would recommend changing it out. If no CEL then I would certainly pull the UIM and check all the vacuum lines for kinks or leaks.
There are three solenoids stacked one on top the other. They are located behind the UIM above the transmission. You will see that all three plug into a chamber that gets vacuum from the UIM. Each solenoid valve has a vacuum line that comes off of it that leads to the actuator (air pump, ssv, and vdi). You can test each actuator by pulling the black cap off the back of the solenoid valve and affixing a vacuum tester to it. this will test to make sure that the vacuum line that runs from the solenoid to the actuator is not leaking, it will not test the actuator itself.
Are you getting a CEL for low voltage or high voltage on the ssv actuator? If you are then I would recommend changing it out. If no CEL then I would certainly pull the UIM and check all the vacuum lines for kinks or leaks.
#88
Registered
Thread Starter
#89
Registered
iTrader: (1)
none of the valves should be open at idle. unplug the hoses/make sure they're not stuck open and look elsewhere.
did you ever get MM to tune the car further? past v4.0.1...
how about you datalog this erratic idle.
you should look over things again before you start replacing more stuff.
did you ever get MM to tune the car further? past v4.0.1...
how about you datalog this erratic idle.
you should look over things again before you start replacing more stuff.
#91
Registered
Thread Starter
none of the valves should be open at idle. unplug the hoses/make sure they're not stuck open and look elsewhere.
did you ever get MM to tune the car further? past v4.0.1...
how about you datalog this erratic idle.
you should look over things again before you start replacing more stuff.
did you ever get MM to tune the car further? past v4.0.1...
how about you datalog this erratic idle.
you should look over things again before you start replacing more stuff.
man i feel like i'm getting no where with this...
i'll data log the idle and post it.
#92
Registered
Thread Starter
http://public.iwork.com/document/?d=...&a=p1047947138
this was the best way i can have you guys check out the log from my mac.
now this log is after my car has warmed up. the idle is worst in the morning.
so far i replaced,
throttle body
SSV
O2
MAF
UIM o-rings
plugs
and 1500 in labor over time..
this was the best way i can have you guys check out the log from my mac.
now this log is after my car has warmed up. the idle is worst in the morning.
so far i replaced,
throttle body
SSV
O2
MAF
UIM o-rings
plugs
and 1500 in labor over time..
Last edited by jtripp06; 10-15-2011 at 07:57 AM.
#94
Modulated Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Your car is in open loop for some reason...and the correct idle control feedback isn't working. Is you ECT reading making sense?
It looks like the idle is moving up and down a lot...this can be because of the fluctuations in the idle AFR...but could be the neutral safety switch as well. Does the idle "hunt" up and down between 800-1200 rhythmically?
It looks like the idle is moving up and down a lot...this can be because of the fluctuations in the idle AFR...but could be the neutral safety switch as well. Does the idle "hunt" up and down between 800-1200 rhythmically?
#95
Registered
Thread Starter
Your car is in open loop for some reason...and the correct idle control feedback isn't working. Is you ECT reading making sense?
It looks like the idle is moving up and down a lot...this can be because of the fluctuations in the idle AFR...but could be the neutral safety switch as well. Does the idle "hunt" up and down between 800-1200 rhythmically?
It looks like the idle is moving up and down a lot...this can be because of the fluctuations in the idle AFR...but could be the neutral safety switch as well. Does the idle "hunt" up and down between 800-1200 rhythmically?
well i can say that my clutch is worn out and is in a need a replacement this month some time, not sure if it is related to the neutral switch. but i would assume the seniors on this board would know better then me!
i did take a reading from this morning from when the car was warming up and what i do EXP. the most frustrating part of this is coming to a light and the car stall.
i will post the datalog after work today. mind you, i reset the crank sensor and the computer last night, so im not sure how much that will effect the logs i posted.
i just wanted to tell you guys i appreciate everyone taking the time to provide some feedback!
#96
Registered
Thread Starter
Your car is in open loop for some reason...and the correct idle control feedback isn't working. Is you ECT reading making sense?
It looks like the idle is moving up and down a lot...this can be because of the fluctuations in the idle AFR...but could be the neutral safety switch as well. Does the idle "hunt" up and down between 800-1200 rhythmically?
It looks like the idle is moving up and down a lot...this can be because of the fluctuations in the idle AFR...but could be the neutral safety switch as well. Does the idle "hunt" up and down between 800-1200 rhythmically?
can you elaberate on what the ECT is? i'm still learning! lol
the idle does hunt between 850-1300-800-600-850-stalls..
#97
Registered
Thread Starter
#99
Registered
Thread Starter
#100
Registered
Thread Starter
http://public.iwork.com/document/?d=...&a=p1047947138
heres the data log of my morning start-up after the car warms up...
heres the data log of my morning start-up after the car warms up...