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(working on the tiny house today so I'm still scatter brained and without phone often)
Moroso 85402 dual 10AN
Then replace that nipple with a 10AN bulkhead adapter. Any reason that's dumb? I'll have it out already so should be easy to retrofit.
S1 engine so I don't think we have a second sucky port.
Else I can just plumb a 10AN fitting to the oil cap and call it a day for now?
*Did I say s2 ? I meant S1 engine from 2006 onwards .... those have an extra port down low on the oil filler part. Maybe you can get hold of that part ..... I retrofitted one.
*If you have the engine apart you can easily fit an AN weld nipple to the front cover .
*Failing all that 9ks solution looks like a decent size.
thanks for the info 9k, I never knew or recall seeing that you used the Honda cap. I proposed a -16 swivel banjo fitting in the top of a Mazda oil cap earlier in the thread.
I may have the later UIM section laying around, but don’t think that matters if you have a large enough vent line plumbed from the cap.
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*Did I say s2 ? I meant S1 engine from 2006 onwards .... those have an extra port down low on the oil filler part. Maybe you can get hold of that part ..... I retrofitted one.
*If you have the engine apart you can easily fit an AN weld nipple to the front cover .
*Failing all that 9ks solution looks like a decent size.
Yeah both of the kegs are 2004/2005. I didn't know that. Retrofitting them sounds like the right option.
The cap is 8AN, so it's that cover for $135 or I install a 10AN bulkhead.
Edit: ngl, "Level 7 Version 2.1 Quick Vent Scavenger Oil Cap Black For Honda B / K Series" looks neat. Goes off the side. Haha
Finally got the tools to compression test the old keg...
Rotor 1) 70 75 73
Rotor 2) 25 55 58
Yeah, so it definitely needs a rebuild. One of those seals has given up on life or is stuck. Also explains the sudden oil flow thru the breather and blow-by. Sucks but not bad for a 2004 track abused keg.
Out of curiosity I want to do the ATF trick on it for giggles now that I have the tool and time before I can swap a replacement in. Even if it gets a seal unstuck, the engine is coming out.
EDIT: So I stuck my 1080p boroscope in thru the sparkplug hole. I have one I can control and move the head around, like for your *******. The insides are horrifying. I took pics, will post soon.
Also I brought the apex seals to the hole...and using a dowel I sprayed them all down with brake cleaner and shoved them around. A few were crunchy but after some brake cleaner and stabbing they got loosened. I dunno why anyone wants to decarb via the LIM...just go thru the spark plug hole and power wash everything in there with brake cleaner as you spin the crank...much simpler.
I'll redo the compression tests in a few and report back. I figure whats the worst that can happen? Lets myth bust. Hahaha
Caught the flu and basically was down for like a week thru the event, so never made it/reinstalled.
My reman engine is going in. The one coming out is older and def needs to be sent off. Pretty sure most of it is trashed and no way could I rebuild myself.
So while I have time...
Replacing the omp lines w PTFE and new crimps. Fixing some wire harness age issues.
3D print a bulkhead AN6 fitting for the oil fill tube. I want to drill a hole where the nipple is and put the bulkhead there. The inside has to be short and also has to probably be wider than 6AN for appropriate flow.
3D print a catch can, washer, premix tank - something that can be flatter and out of the way.
Going to use ASA for prototypes. Probably PC later on.
Relocate the battery. Install window net. Relocate the immobilizer reader. New ACT clutch.
And while it's out, I can get the plumbing/fitment done much easier for the turbo.
Just checked for fitment and it looks like 30mm x 30mm is the sweet spot. The inside is flared from the 10AN ~12mm to 20mm. The bottom mating surface has channels for epoxy. I'm waiting for the jig to finish printing so I can cut out an exact 20mm hole in the right place.
Then I'll have to wait at least 8hrs to print the part out from ASA (stronger, higher temp, chem resistance than ABS plastic). It takes longer to fuse the layers together into one contiguous dense block.
After that, its cut the hole and plastic weld with epoxy the part into place.
Since I now have multiple engines laying around I'm not worried about ruining this one by accident. I just think this is a cleaner solution to the problem.
ah ok, that makes more sense now 🤣 if you can get it to stay in place that way
I still think a low-profile swivel AN fitting through the cap top would make more sense though
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So I figured you might say that, so that's why I flared the base...the plastic weld fuses most plastic together permanently. But now I'm double paranoid, thanks. hahaha
The swivel fitting thru the cap just looks wrong. I can't get over how ugly that would look. This is much harder and dumber! So right up my alley.
the type I’m referring to wouldn’t have the big mandrel-bend elbow on it like what was posted earlier.
but hoping whatever you do works
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I did the maths...your solution makes logical AND financial sense. When I calculated my "rate per hour" and the material costs, electricity...my special epoxy tube is $20 alone...my solution is utterly stupid.
However...I've gone too far. I can't go back. Also the cap solution looks uglier. Haha. Printing has started.
Final product btw. Testing this weekend of the new strengthened engine. Stronger clutch, bearing support, etc. If it survives I'll finally order the turbo.
There's a ton more satisfaction of designing a part and printing it to watch it work vs buying something off the shelf. Totally support your choice ha!
Sweet baby Jesus in a hand basket it survived y'all! All the modifications worked. The cooling mods and ducting kept it all nice and within range no matter how much I flogged it. The engine sounds/feels great. I properly installed that billet bearing support for the eshaft. The stronger ACT clutch feels and works great. And I didn't blow anything up. I did end up spinning out once and tore into the harness running thru the wheel well which I'll fix and relocate. But the car is now ready for the next step.
I'm still getting blown away by Porsche's, Ford GTs, and Vettes...but that was expected.
I have one I’ll let you try to see if it will fit; BorgWarner EFR7163 gone full secret sauce with a custom fitted higher flow T3 turbine housing (~25 lbs/min) and SXE compressor cover. I also have the EFR cover if you prefer the integral BOV, but the S-cover is more efficient and provides add’l flow. The sizing is different on both covers that one may fit better than the other.
It’s essentially equivalent to an EFR7670 in the smaller B1 frame and thus smaller wheels with less MOI. So it should spool even faster. With the SXE cover it should outflow a G30-660, not that you’re likely to push to 450 whp, let alone higher still. It has that potential though. LMK.
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10-13-2022, 10:41 AM
..... I retrofitted one.
