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it really doesn’t matter that much which mechanical pump you use, as they aren’t the real factor to consider, but you could actually have both the mechanical pump fed by the electrical pump to eliminate cavitation and play it safe. It defeats the purpose of being the most efficient choice though. Otherwise the EWP does trump any of the MWPs on the track, but requires the proper setup.
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I figured since the turbo goes way faster than that. I thought about that but the added complexity was meh. I got a sakebomb adapter plate, going to remove the thermostat and plug the bypass holes, run the EWP on PWM to track the temp via my own probe. I like the EWP since its either working or not and I can place it out of the way.
You should set engine rpm limit to around 8300 when you fit the turbo. That's just a good common sense way to ensure longevity of the engine. Revving to 9000 is unnecessary for performance and it puts undue stress on the bearings that increases exponentially with boost. At that reduced limit the water pump is no longer cavitating.
The S2 and Mazmart pumps are a better design and flow more than the stock S1.
I agree that an EWP can work better than the stock pump but for long term reliability you can't beat the stock pump.
I'm going to get flamed (rightfully so)...but there's no point shifting when at 9000 rpm on the long straights into 5th...the car starts to slow down I imagine due to aero drag. Also, there's lots of sections where upshifting makes no sense as the corner coming up in a few seconds needs a downshift. Might as well leave it revving and wait. The alternative is...GITGUD and do the shift for the few seconds before downshifting two.
I found my fastest times are when I keep the revs high from corner to corner.
I have a billet support bearing now that removed all that nonsense on the front of the engine. Allegedly it strengthens it up, but well see on the next engine swap. Haha
I'm going to get flamed (rightfully so)...but there's no point shifting when at 9000 rpm on the long straights into 5th...the car starts to slow down I imagine due to aero drag. Also, there's lots of sections where upshifting shifting makes no sense as the corner coming up in a few seconds needs a downshift. Might as well leave it revving and wait. The alternative is...GITGUD and do the shift for the few seconds before downshifting two.
I found my fastest times are when I keep the revs high from corner to corner.
I have a billet support bearing now that removed all that nonsense on the front of the engine. Allegedly it strengthens it up, but well see on the next engine swap. Haha
All that will change when you have another 150 odd hp. My suggestion is to limit rpm to 8300 but shift at 8000 leaving those extra few hundred for the situations where you don't want to upshift. Go to a lower diff ratio if you need to rather than rev it higher!
I'm only talking about AFTER it's turboed btw.
All that will change when you have another 150 odd hp. My suggestion is to limit rpm to 8300 but shift at 8000 leaving those extra few hundred for the situations where you don't want to upshift. Go to a lower diff ratio if you need to rather than rev it higher!
I'm only talking about AFTER it's turboed btw.
That makes sense to me!
I've literally wrung out the maximum performance the RX8 has at COTA without stripping the paint.
But I kinda want the damn car to work and all systems beefed up enough before I slap 100+ whp onto it.
Quick update. I busted my back two weeks before the event and couldn't swap the pump out. Took the car out and kept shifting at 7500 to keep temps down. And whatdoyaknow...worked and kept cool enough. Helped we had nice weather.
Downside...compression on the engine is 85-93 avg on both rotors with the rear being lower. I got another run in December and I think I'm going to try to find somewhere to send the car to get the engine rebuilt and reinstalled. Swapping it myself twice in a year is getting old.
The first mod I should have ever done is the EWP. Hands down the best upgrade ever. Couldn't get water temps over 91C no matter how hard I drove.
I replaced the oil fill neck with an 06 with the extra lower nipple. Going to take the other LIM and put 4AN fittings in place of the maintenance ports and then patch that thru to the catch can.
I'm still seeing a lot of blowby and the compression is still avg high 80s...I need to rebuild and install a new one.
1 year+ later and still patently waiting for the turbo build to start… Love to see some tangible progress!
No kidding. Same. Just didn't want to throw it on and blow anything up and blame the turbo. So far I've burned thru two kegs just due to tracking the car hard and supporting systems needing upgrades. The third is going to go as well soon. But will work for initial fitment and testing.
Electric water pump...first mod any RX8 should do. Seriously.
Thought you had already installed a turbo there for a brief moment .
Problem I see there is ... water pump is taking the space where you would normally run the first pipe off the turbo. Hopefully there is another acceptable path!
Thought you had already installed a turbo there for a brief moment .
Problem I see there is ... water pump is taking the space where you would normally run the first pipe off the turbo. Hopefully there is another acceptable path!
Well...crap...I didn't think about that...
I call it the water turbo. Which is now in the path of the turbo plumbing apparently...
With some intricate fabrication ...you may be able to run it through the suspension outside the engine bay.....maybe.
I fortunately have access to two amazing tig welders that have volunteered to help plumb the car. So it might need to get creative as the EWP is in perfect position and I really don't want to move it. I'm relocating the battery and possibly the ECU to make more room, but the space between the sway bar and radiator is tight.
Quick rehash of the catch can question. I bought an oil cap that has two 10AN bungs on it. And now have the 05 and 06 oil fill neck parts. They moved to active air in 06...but do I *have* to? Why don't I just use the 05 part and use a check valve to the catch can which vents to atmo? If I use the 06 part w the extra nipple, do I really need to patch that to the maintenance ports? Does the lower nipple really need to be connected to the intake? Why don't I just cap all the nipples off and use the oil cap w the ports? I know we don't want to lose metered air, but...
You could use the 06 design if you wanted to with the addition of a check valve to prevent boost (allowing vacuum) into the intake. But for a track car I think you are better not to allow any hot crankcase gases back into the engine.
I use the 06 part (with caps on the lim nipples) and have both hoses go to a catch can which vents to atmosphere. The one going to the lower position even acts as a drain for any oil which finds it's way into the catch can. This has worked well for me. No need for any check valves.
No kidding. Same. Just didn't want to throw it on and blow anything up and blame the turbo. So far I've burned thru two kegs just due to tracking the car hard and supporting systems needing upgrades. The third is going to go as well soon. But will work for initial fitment and testing.
Electric water pump...first mod any RX8 should do. Seriously.
Ha, you're preaching to the wrong guy. If I had to guess, that looks my Davies pump with Sake cover. Glad you put it to use. Agreed with Brett that your current EWP placement and turbo will not fit together. GL with the build!
Ha, you're preaching to the wrong guy. If I had to guess, that looks my Davies pump with Sake cover. Glad you put it to use. Agreed with Brett that your current EWP placement and turbo will not fit together. GL with the build!
Yep, the Sakebomb kit w the EWP150. It's not listed on their site for RX-8's but they carry it.
I was looking and think I could snake a pipe up and over the EWP if I relocate the ECU. The end tanks of the IC might need to be different than what I originally ordered. I'm going to be playing with some 2" and 3" dryer ducting to mock up the routing.
I really don't want to relocate the EWP but if I can't make it fit, I may need to change up where the radiator outlet is to run the pump on the drivers side. I'm definitely going to plumb water to the turbo so maybe I add two 6AN bungs to the radiator.
I need to put a "Garrett" sticker on the EWP to screw with people.
Also if you are able, Id suggest moving the EWP lower. It in theory should be the lowest point of the circuit to avoid air entrapment. AKA cavitation and no water movement.
Also if you are able, Id suggest moving the EWP lower. It in theory should be the lowest point of the circuit to avoid air entrapment. AKA cavitation and no water movement.
The problem is the factory outlet on the radiator. If you notice it points at an angle so the hose goes over the sway bar. So that's the lowest part of the system I could mount it and clear the sway with the pre-formed silicone hose I had to chop up.
Yep, the Sakebomb kit w the EWP150. It's not listed on their site for RX-8's but they carry it.
Sorry but I highly doubt you purchased this part. I went to Sake and purchased off of Heath personally only after talking about my EWP woes and he offered up the cover only with some edited directions. To my direct in-person knowledge, there has never been a 'kit' offered online. Knowledge of their EWP kit only came into existence because of me selling what I had on here. Which later ended up in the hands of someone in your state. Not too many dots to connect imo.
Originally Posted by EvilHoHo
The problem is the factory outlet on the radiator. If you notice it points at an angle so the hose goes over the sway bar. So that's the lowest part of the system I could mount it and clear the sway with the pre-formed silicone hose I had to chop up.
You should get with someone who can design your pump placement around custom hard lines. One and done. Once upon a time that's what I was going to do.
is this install STILL not finished?
OP, stop being such a n00b.
You still driving an automatic? Heh
Also...I'm trying! Hard mode when you don't have a garage and burn thru engines as you test and push everything to its limits while trying to keep a car ready for track days while learning everything as I do it myself. ***** hard bruh.
On the flip side, I get to drive 5 events a year around Texas and ~4 events at COTA so there's that...
Sorry but I highly doubt you purchased this part. I went to Sake and purchased off of Heath personally only after talking about my EWP woes and he offered up the cover only with some edited directions. To my direct in-person knowledge, there has never been a 'kit' offered online. Knowledge of their EWP kit only came into existence because of me selling what I had on here. Which later ended up in the hands of someone in your state. Not too many dots to connect imo.
That's funny but I'm pretty sure the invoice from them in my inbox seems to be pretty legit. And I only order new parts for the build...
Invoice# D27***
Order summary
RX8 EWP Pump × 1
$195.00
RX8 EWP Plate × 1
$225.00
Subtotal
$420.00
Shipping
$43.00
Total
$463.00 USD
Also the email (June 6th 2023) I got from them when I approached them about the kit also states differently. I got the plate and pump from them...so...I don't know what to tell you...not sure why you had so much trouble for such an easy upgrade.
Hey,
We do actually have the RX8 EWP plate specifically. Unfortunately, we just never had the time to launch it but it is available. It would be $225 + shipping fee (depending on where you are located).
We also do have the full complete RX8 EWP kit as well (plate, belt, pump, etc) and that would be the same cost as the RX7 EWP kit, which starts at $750.
Let me know if you have any other questions and if you would like to proceed,
-SBG
Why would I lie about where I get my parts? RX8Performance also has a plate btw.
Also Craig-Davies had a killer sale for the whole EWP and controller for less than $400 recently.
Oh something else I've added (as of last year) to all the engines I swap in and moving forward is the Billet Stationary Bearing Support ($250). I wanted to get rid of all that bearing nonsense behind the front cover. Not sure if it actually helps other than not worrying about the stock bearings falling out when messing around in there.
oh no that bearing doesn't look up to the task at all.. it has marginal capacity compared to the OEM solution. I would reconsider that Sir, unless you plan to drive that engine dooring races only.
oh no that bearing doesn't look up to the task at all.. it has marginal capacity compared to the OEM solution. I would reconsider that Sir, unless you plan to drive that engine dooring races only.
Go on...the car is only trailered and tracked, but what do you mean?
09-14-2023, 05:40 PM
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I'm sure that will create much confusion and hilarity.
that bearing doesn't look up to the task at all.. it has marginal capacity compared to the OEM solution. I would reconsider that Sir, unless you plan to drive that engine dooring races only.