Engine teardown - 300+ hp with highish miles
03-17-2013, 06:29 PM
#127
Well it is located at the coolest part of the housing...so I don't see how it really would help with detonation control?
I do wonder due to the shape of that area...if its blocked off then maybe a swirl developers and impedes flow somewhat?
Very interesting.
I do wonder due to the shape of that area...if its blocked off then maybe a swirl developers and impedes flow somewhat?
Very interesting.
03-17-2013, 07:54 PM
#128
Registered
The outlet to the throttle body doesn't have to be blocked at all, just join it back on itself, so water flow is from the pump housing to the back of the block.
Or just run a new piece of pipe from the pump housing to the fitting at the back of the block.
Rotaman
Or just run a new piece of pipe from the pump housing to the fitting at the back of the block.
Rotaman
03-18-2013, 05:05 PM
#131
The deposits were really bad actually . I know my cooling system is not performing the way it used to so i suspect some of that crud is in the rad as well . May have come from the heater radiator as that one keeps blocking up and when i clear it all this rusty water comes out . This is why i suspect the water wetter debacle as the cause , even though i only ran it with the engine previous to this failed one . I know everything went rusty when i did that . Im sure it said on the bottle that it prevented corrosion but ..... no .
03-18-2013, 05:15 PM
#134
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
I ran mostly distilled water and some glycol in my last engine and I had a lot of rust and build up for a 30,000 engine that had at least three coolant changes in that time. On this engine I am running 75% straight coolant and 25% distilled water and it is working great along with the secondary radiator. I have my turbo adding heat to the coolant on the throttle body coolant and myself and several other rx8's were sitting in 90F weather in traffic for an hour and I had the lowest coolant temps (never got over 200F) 
But also the highest intake temps
Today at lunch I was pushing her pretty hard under boost getting on and off the highway running errands and I got my coolant temps to 210F in traffic. But as soon as I cruise on the highway for a few minutes the temps drop pretty quick unless the engine is totally heat soaked, then it takes longer.
But also the highest intake temps
Today at lunch I was pushing her pretty hard under boost getting on and off the highway running errands and I got my coolant temps to 210F in traffic. But as soon as I cruise on the highway for a few minutes the temps drop pretty quick unless the engine is totally heat soaked, then it takes longer.
03-18-2013, 05:17 PM
#135
Yeah - i was only running 30% or maybe less antifreeze - maybe it wasn't enough .
Had a real nice drive yesterday = no traffic - windy road for about 1/2 hr ambient temps in high 20s(celcius) . No sign of overheating . Where i am seeing an issue is on a prolonged hillclimb on a windy road on and off the boost the whole way up . Think i need to remove my rad and flush it real good because I never used to have that happen on the same road.
Had a real nice drive yesterday = no traffic - windy road for about 1/2 hr ambient temps in high 20s(celcius) . No sign of overheating . Where i am seeing an issue is on a prolonged hillclimb on a windy road on and off the boost the whole way up . Think i need to remove my rad and flush it real good because I never used to have that happen on the same road.
Last edited by Brettus; 03-18-2013 at 05:24 PM.
03-18-2013, 05:42 PM
#138
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Try running mostly glycol for a while to clean the system a bit before you flush it. For me too much water was a problem after shutdown, I could feel it boiling in the turbo coolant lines and I was losing a bit to evaporation. With mostly Glycol I don't have the boiling issue and my coolant level is rock steady.
03-18-2013, 06:21 PM
#139
The deposits were really bad actually . I know my cooling system is not performing the way it used to so i suspect some of that crud is in the rad as well . May have come from the heater radiator as that one keeps blocking up and when i clear it all this rusty water comes out . This is why i suspect the water wetter debacle as the cause , even though i only ran it with the engine previous to this failed one . I know everything went rusty when i did that . Im sure it said on the bottle that it prevented corrosion but ..... no .
https://www.rx8club.com/tech-garage-...licone-238638/
03-19-2013, 05:03 AM
#142
Registered
Originally Posted by Brettus 
Yes - blocked off both the hose on the tstat and the block
I would think that would be fine.
No its not, anywhere you have an area that has stationary water, is where you will have a place for debrie to find a place to sit, and this will be one of the reasons you will have build up of crud and rust.
Best thing to do is thoroughly flush the engine block and heater core using a rust nutralising agent. Then flush again to get all the nutralising agent out, then fill the engine with the best quality
Yes - blocked off both the hose on the tstat and the block
I would think that would be fine.
No its not, anywhere you have an area that has stationary water, is where you will have a place for debrie to find a place to sit, and this will be one of the reasons you will have build up of crud and rust.
Best thing to do is thoroughly flush the engine block and heater core using a rust nutralising agent. Then flush again to get all the nutralising agent out, then fill the engine with the best quality
Low-Toxicity Propylene Glycol Antifreeze, at the recommended rate for your area and Distilled water only.
This will keep you engine block clean as new for years.
If you plan to use Evans, then thats a different case again.
This will keep you engine block clean as new for years.
If you plan to use Evans, then thats a different case again.
Rotaman
03-19-2013, 09:18 AM
#143
03-19-2013, 04:51 PM
#144
Team---I know Evans prevents or greatly reduces nuculate boiling etc etc. but i havent switched because I wasnt sure about if the little higher temps would make the housing more prone to have protrusion? I guess you havent seen that, but then again you dont put a lot of miles on your engines?
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
03-19-2013, 11:31 PM
#145
Team---I know Evans prevents or greatly reduces nuculate boiling etc etc. but i havent switched because I wasnt sure about if the little higher temps would make the housing more prone to have protrusion? I guess you havent seen that, but then again you dont put a lot of miles on your engines?
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
that goes for you too, pull the nipples and install plugs in the hole to eliminate the dead areas
03-20-2013, 10:00 AM
#146
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
You mean dead areas inside the nipple themselves? You think that would really cause an issue? I don't have them capped, Brettus does. Mine are supplying feed and return for the turbo.
03-20-2013, 06:26 PM
#148
well ..... may be over thinking it.
Contrary to some beliefs, waterless cooling does not totally eliminate nucleate boiling. When the metal temp is over 500F it doesnt matter if the coolant temp boiling point is 250F or 375F nucleate boiling is going to occur. What waterless coolant DOES do is eliminate any vapor formation. Vapor and nucleate boiling are two different things....
I think also to get the best out of a waterless coolant-- due to its viscosity and lower heat transfer ability--a bigger tubed radiator and a more robust waterpump is needed?
Some corvette guys here in ga saw a cylinder head temp increase of 150F after converting. They developed more detonation as a result and had to re-tune. Drag strip guys. They are crazy anyway.
Just wondering if you have seen any evidence of brinelling? Corvette guys have not seen that but some older model Mustang guys claimed to have. Whether that would affect us--again IDK.
My point is--waterless coolant may not solve all problems by itself. Like everything else I think it has its place but it does have limitations.
I think in Teams chase it probably works great.
I may be thread jacking here--sorry Brett
Contrary to some beliefs, waterless cooling does not totally eliminate nucleate boiling. When the metal temp is over 500F it doesnt matter if the coolant temp boiling point is 250F or 375F nucleate boiling is going to occur. What waterless coolant DOES do is eliminate any vapor formation. Vapor and nucleate boiling are two different things....
I think also to get the best out of a waterless coolant-- due to its viscosity and lower heat transfer ability--a bigger tubed radiator and a more robust waterpump is needed?
Some corvette guys here in ga saw a cylinder head temp increase of 150F after converting. They developed more detonation as a result and had to re-tune. Drag strip guys. They are crazy anyway.
Just wondering if you have seen any evidence of brinelling? Corvette guys have not seen that but some older model Mustang guys claimed to have. Whether that would affect us--again IDK.
My point is--waterless coolant may not solve all problems by itself. Like everything else I think it has its place but it does have limitations.
I think in Teams chase it probably works great.
I may be thread jacking here--sorry Brett
Last edited by olddragger; 03-20-2013 at 06:28 PM.
03-20-2013, 08:16 PM
#150
Umm. I may be missing something, but it appears the nipple on the back of the block is the only path out of that coolant passage. So if you cap it it would cause the entire passage front to back to be stagnant. Not that it has high flow to begin with.
Couldn't find the post about TB bypass I was looking for. Did find a lot of people who capped it and didn't have problems. Regardless I would rather bypass than plug the lines. If I find more I'll post.
Couldn't find the post about TB bypass I was looking for. Did find a lot of people who capped it and didn't have problems. Regardless I would rather bypass than plug the lines. If I find more I'll post.