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Old 09-18-2013, 05:33 PM
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What did you do to your MAF Scaling?

What did the injectors flow at when they were flowed and cleaned? I'm guessing they are stock.
Old 09-18-2013, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
tune out rich cruise loads with the fuel maps, which aren't really cruise loads since you're not in closed loop

OR ALTERNATIVELY:

set the scaling in the middle between the two and adjust the rich spots leaner and lean spots richer on each end

it seems pretty obvious to me, but you seem again to be fixated on some kind of specific thing that doesn't really make sense IMO
Im kinda following, as you can tell i am not nearly as educated in this subject as you, are you saying I should tune for WOT and then deal with the rich cruise,the only way I can think of doing that is adjusting the VE table for the given range. Or literally adjust the 3 AFR maps for those given ranges seems like it would make a very constrictive tune



Originally Posted by Brettus
are you sure bank 1 and 2 injectors are wired up right ?
Yes, if they weren't I doubt the car would even run.

Originally Posted by logalinipoo
What did you do to your MAF Scaling?

What did the injectors flow at when they were flowed and cleaned? I'm guessing they are stock.
MAF scale is 1.03

And I do not know what they were flow rated at unfortunately.
Old 09-18-2013, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Carbon8

Yes, if they weren't I doubt the car would even run.
Sure it would run .............. badly .................. but it would run . I have driven a car with the plugs reversed .

Just seems odd that bank2 is affecting cruise by so much when they are barely doing anything at low load/rpm.
Old 09-18-2013, 06:01 PM
  #429  
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you are clearly under-informed and maybe shouldn't be doing this yourself

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Old 09-18-2013, 06:05 PM
  #430  
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Originally Posted by Brettus
Sure it would run .............. badly .................. but it would run . I have driven a car with the plugs reversed .

Just seems odd that bank2 is affecting cruise by so much when they are barely doing anything at low load/rpm.
Well he said cruise at 4-6K RPM. So I am guessing he's in Vac, but at those RPM I would guess bank 2 Injectors are on.
Old 09-18-2013, 06:07 PM
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...

After performing one complete drive cycle (a “drive cycle” is bringing your vehicle up to operating temperature and driving it normally and then allowing it to cool off again completely), your vehicle will be ready to provide the required data-log feedback the MazdaManiac for further customization and tuning.



Perform the following data-log procedure:


1) Plug your AccessPORT into the vehicle's DLC (OBD) port and start the car. Allow it to warm up thoroughly.
2) Select "Monitor" from the menu options. Press the "OK" button.
3) Select "Set Data Log List" from the "Monitor" menu. Press the "OK" button.
4) check ONLY the following option check-boxes:




• Equiv. Ratio
• Calculated Load
• Long Term FT1
• Mass Airflow
• RPM
• Short Term FT1
• Vehicle Speed
• Accel. Pedal Position
• Ign. Tim. (WILL BE LABLED "LEAD" ON ROTARY APPLICATIONS)
• Ign. Separation (ONLY ON ROTARY APPLICATIONS)
• Boost (PSI) (ONLY ON OEM BOOSTED APPLICATIONS)
• Actual AFR (AFR) (ONLY ON OEM BOOSTED APPLICATIONS)
• HPFP Act. Press. (PSI) (ONLY ON OEM BOOSTED DISI APPLICATIONS EQUIPPED WITH A HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL PUMP)




5) Press the "Back" button then press the "OK" button.
6) Select "Data Log" from the "Monitor" menu. Press the "OK" button
7) Scroll to the Equiv. Ratio display to monitor your air-fuel ratios during logging.
8) Press the "OK" button again to start the data-log.
9) After approximately 10 seconds, press the "OK" button again to stop the data-log. You have just created your first data-log of the engine's idle performance.
10) Take your vehicle to a safe section of relatively flat highway where you can get the vehicle up to 4200 RPM for several miles at a time without being disturbed. On manual transmission-equipped vehicles, this will be performed in 4th gear. On 4-speed automatic transmission-equipped vehicles, this will be performed in 2nd gear. On 6-speed automatic transmission-equipped vehicles, this will be performed in 4th gear.
11) Once you are up to 4200 RPM, turn on your A/C, headlamps and rear defroster and set the cruise control to hold your speed. On vehicles with no cruise control, hold the vehicle speed as constant as you can with the gas pedal.
12) Press the "OK" button again to start the data-log and continue to cruise for a minimum of 30 seconds.
13) Press the "OK" button again to stop the log.
14) Again, on a safe section of open, flat highway, lower your RPMs to 2500 in 2nd gear (1st gear on the 4-speed automatic).
15) Press the "OK" button again to start the data-log and accelerate at WOT to redline. On boosted applications, ease into full throttle and observe your Equivalence ratios or Actual AFR. If the Equivalence ratio or Actual AFR is above 12:1 at RPMs over 4000, back off the throttle and proceed to the next step.
16) Release the gas pedal and allow the vehicle to slow and your RPMs to drop and switch to 3rd gear (2nd gear on the 4-speed automatic).
17) When your RPMs have dropped to 2700, once again accelerate at WOT to redline or to the highest safe speed you can attain. On boosted applications, ease into full throttle and observe your Equivalence ratios or Actual AFR. If the Equivalence ratio or Actual AFR is above 12:1 at RPMs over 4000, back off the throttle and proceed to the next step.
18) Press the "OK" button again to stop the log and return to your starting location.

Old 09-18-2013, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Carbon8

Yes, if they weren't I doubt the car would even run.



MAF scale is 1.03
So you raised your whole MAF scale by 3%,

Then lowered your Banks 3 Injectors by 3%. Those two cancel each other out. I would bring your MAF scaling back at 75+ to stock then reset your bank 3 injectors to 476.

They kind of cancel each other out but at the same time they could be fighting other things.
Old 09-18-2013, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
you are clearly under-informed and maybe shouldn't be doing this yourself

As an aside ....Team - are you 100% sure the gear maps work as Cobb has them labelled ?
On both protuner and ME I have found that they don't.
Old 09-18-2013, 06:31 PM
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as far as I know they do for me

MAF scale and injector scale are not identical i.e. 3% on Bank 3 is not equal to 3% on the MAF

otherwise because of this sort of noise (not you Brettus) I'm out as usual ... Carbon can PM or email me if he would like any further assistance
Old 09-18-2013, 06:36 PM
  #435  
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Team I took your hint, but was already sending that msg before you said it.

I was basically repeating what brettus said but justifying it with some math.

Originally Posted by Brettus
Very rare for me to do anything to maf scale except perhaps at idle and below 60g/s . I prefer to concentrate on what the issue might be,rather than covering it up by rescaling the maf.

I rarely rescale stock injectors

Last edited by logalinipoo; 09-18-2013 at 06:42 PM.
Old 09-18-2013, 06:57 PM
  #436  
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Originally Posted by logalinipoo
So you raised your whole MAF scale by 3%,

Then lowered your Banks 3 Injectors by 3%. Those two cancel each other out. I would bring your MAF scaling back at 75+ to stock then reset your bank 3 injectors to 476.

They kind of cancel each other out but at the same time they could be fighting other things.
Yeah, that is a completely irrelevant relationship. So I have no idea what you are talking about besides comparing apples to watermelons

Originally Posted by TeamRX8
as far as I know they do for me

MAF scale and injector scale are not identical i.e. 3% on Bank 3 is not equal to 3% on the MAF

otherwise because of this sort of noise (not you Brettus) I'm out as usual ... Carbon can PM or email me if he would like any further assistance
Thanks for the input. I have a couple questions I'll send you a PM
Old 09-18-2013, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
as far as I know they do for me
You should do some tests to satisfy yourself that they do . I know someone else with Cobb that found the same as me . I actually gave up on the gearing maps years ago (after seeing one car jump from one map to another in the same gear ) and just make them all the same these days .
Old 09-19-2013, 02:26 AM
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mine are distinctly different and I log/tune them separately with consistent results I mostly run in 2nd gear, and occasionally 3rd for most things, occasionally 4th if I run a time trials. Altering one map doesn't affect the other that I've ever seen. How fast the car revs definitely impacts AFR and intake vale operation. I would prefer to have a separate map for every gear if that was possible.

The one thing is that there are many variables and subroutines that impact outputs which we have no access or control over. You may be experiencing these more due to the higher loads that FI imposes than NA

also, it is more appropriate to call those "Open Loop Maps" rather than "WOT maps"
Old 09-19-2013, 02:57 AM
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
I would prefer to have a separate map for every gear if that was possible.
Absolutely - I have had to make quite a few compromises .

Originally Posted by TeamRX8

The one thing is that there are many variables and subroutines that impact outputs which we have no access or control over. You may be experiencing these more due to the higher loads that FI imposes than NA
Have come across the same thing on NA cars .......................
Old 09-19-2013, 03:19 AM
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not sure what to say, to achieve the preferred AFRs my maps are different
Old 09-19-2013, 08:02 AM
  #441  
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Team,

I am not doing this on my own, I would never try to attempt that.

Anyways leaned out the rich cruise, and achieved a decent WOT, still needs fine tuning which will have to wait until the spring unfortunately.
I will have to call Cam later this week to see what he usually experiences as far as MAF readings with his ported engines to verify mine, constantly hitting 4.2V and 260g/sec. Sitting perfectly on 5.5 g/sec and combined STFT and LTFT are basically 0 at idle. So I know its calibrated properly.


Last edited by Carbon8; 09-19-2013 at 08:05 AM.
Old 09-19-2013, 08:55 AM
  #442  
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Originally Posted by logalinipoo
So you raised your whole MAF scale by 3%,

Then lowered your Banks 3 Injectors by 3%. Those two cancel each other out.
Umm other than what Team said,

Making the injector 3% smaller effectively adds more fuel.

Last edited by EviLStewie; 09-19-2013 at 09:02 AM.
Old 09-19-2013, 09:07 AM
  #443  
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Originally Posted by EviLStewie
Umm other than what Team said, both adjustments add fuel.

Making the injector 3% smaller effectively adds more fuel.

The ECU thinks the injector is smaller and so increases the injectors pulse width accordingly.
Thus more fuel.
Firstly I made the injector bigger to cut fuel. I made my MAF scale larger because I was seeing -2.5 LTFT and an idle of 4.8 G/sec. Now I am sitting on 5.5g/sec and a .16 LTFT with a combined LTFT and STFT of 0

My LTFT
.6% 2-7 g/sec
-.16% 8-45g/sec
-.16% 46+ g/sec
Old 11-19-2013, 11:15 PM
  #444  
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Not sure if matters but my MAF max G/S after scaling was around 250 at wot and I had a conservative port +Used housings.
Old 11-19-2013, 11:17 PM
  #445  
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Ahh yes, I remember your build now...
Old 11-19-2013, 11:57 PM
  #446  
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I believe myself and Kane figured out my lean WOT tuning issue and it was an injector issue, my MAF scaling is correct, 250 G/s makes me very optimistic of the end result when I get everything buttoned up.

Im tearing the car down at the end of next month to do some chassis work, and I will go over my engine again to make sure everything is set, to try to see what we can do to solve my misfire issue, as that is the only thing preventing me from continuing to my next stage of this build.
Old 11-20-2013, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Carbon8
I believe myself and Kane figured out my lean WOT tuning issue and it was an injector issue, my MAF scaling is correct, 250 G/s makes me very optimistic of the end result when I get everything buttoned up.

Im tearing the car down at the end of next month to do some chassis work, and I will go over my engine again to make sure everything is set, to try to see what we can do to solve my misfire issue, as that is the only thing preventing me from continuing to my next stage of this build.
I pulled 218whp on old plugs and a dirty filter, I imagine you will do even better.
Old 11-25-2013, 05:47 AM
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So anyone know where I can find the specifications for subframe (Front and Rear) removal and installation, I can't find it in any of the service manuals.
Old 11-25-2013, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Carbon8
So anyone know where I can find the specifications for subframe (Front and Rear) removal and installation, I can't find it in any of the service manuals.
It should be part of the engine removal in the FSM. You do need to pay attention to the alignment bolts and mark them when removing. Outside of that I think its straightforward.
Old 11-25-2013, 07:02 PM
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I know the front subframe is under the engine removal, more looking for the rear subframe.

Also are these my only two options for a compression tester

TR-01
TR-01 Rotary Engine Compression Tester

ReCT 04
Model ReCT

Seems you cannot buy a TR-01 anymore which sucks as the need to be connected to a computer is just a hassle.


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