Looks like you and I have been working on the same thing....

Mine opens a little earlier that yours...it leaves about 1mm between the edge of the eyebrow and the O-ring land.

The pics just show the bridge port and the notch in the housing....Today I also ported the rest of the ports including the exhaust...which I am making open a few degrees earlier and I finished up everything nicely also...

I only did the secondaries....so its effectively a half bridge...

What do you think?

This engine is going into the car in the next few days so I will be able to answer whether it takes FI well or no....can you say 500whp again but this time on a halfbridge?

SWEET!

Chris


oh!..ps...the last picture is a tease....don't ask about them...we will announce when they go officially on sale on the site.

 

I checked...it is not....the water jacket goes until about 1/8" from the side edge(closing edge) of the port....so it wont work...sad... I did find a way of porting the exhaust that should increase duration and flow but it is not as huge as a bridge would've been. Either way....we will know soon whether half bridge or not makes a difference when I get it running next week.

Best regards,

Chris

 

Looks like we had the exact same idea, Chris!

Yep the cut length I did that length purposefully. The intake runner is round and I didn't want to make a cut that went too deep so I kept it where it was. It oughta work. The work on the rotor housing like you did is also (basically) required, too.

Great minds think alike! (hopefully, heh)

B

 

chris, this is not what you did for your car is it?

 

My past experience says it'll be golden on the FI app. The ignition advance curves however will be different and require more finesse given the overlap that this BP will induce...

B

 

This engine IS going into my car next week....to complement everything else...

I couldn't wait to experiment so we will know how it well it works or not....experimenting is the sometimes the only way to know

The engine in the car sucked a piece of rubberized paper gasket I made (from the custom intake manifold) into it and it didn't really damage anything but it was in there and it got lodged into and all around the rotor and wasn't giving good compression so I had to pull it out after only 50 miles of testing on the new setup ....but this oppened up the door for this porting...so we will see soon enough whether its worth all the trouble.....Also, REMIND ME TO NEVER USE "Oreilly's Auto" CHEAP GASKET PAPER ON ANYTHING IN AN ENGINE EVER AGAIN....Now I made aluminum Gaskets and I will use silicone in their installation.

Chris

 

It looks like bridgeports like huge advance on timing at idle...Mine was at only 5-10 deg advance at idle.....that will have to change....what's your take on "gap"? lots or none?

Chris

 

oh snap, lol.

well, sometimes good things come out of bad situations

I'd love to see your car in person sometime, I'm about 4 hours from you

 

No problem....let me know when you are thinking of coming to the cities and we can meet somewhere.....

Chris

 

Chris, maybe yours needs one of these... and yes you're right on the bridgeport exhaust port. The water jacket is right there so no go.

B

 

Great job guys! It is great to see some folks taking chances to the push the Renesis!

 

I can't wait!

 

Brian,

Did you touch the outer edge (closing) of the exhaust port at all to get to this port?

I barely touched this edge on a different plate I tried before and when I opened up after about 5k miles....it had edge wear on the edge....and it was due to the corner seal slightly tilting into the port...apparently the side edge...as it comes stock is as far out as it could be...

I saw the wear on the corner seals...and on the edge of the port....it wasn't the side seals because these displayed no marks or wear whatsoever.

I actually finished the bridge plates yesterday and assembled the motor today so we will see how much difference it makes. I did the exhaust and I ported it downward about 1/16" but most of the changes was to the inside of the port where it was straight in and not it opens up to match the sleeve. I also did the "V" shape at the top of the exhaust and it is smooth going in but not as rounded as the one in your pic....

I'll fill everyone in once I get the engine in the car...so far it turns fine with no catching of any seals on the bridgeports

Everyone, cross your fingers. :P

Chris

 

I did after the fact but not very much. I initially kept that "hump" on the side there, similar to how I did on the intake port, but I wanted to clean up the closing edge (or tip?) more for a nicer photo. I ran the rotor around there several times to see in particular the coverage of the corner seal as well as the leading edge of the side seal. I didn't see an issue but then again it's a dead Rx8 rotor I'm using with all the seals stuck in it. :D

If there's any part of the port I wasn't confident in, it's that exact spot.

GOOD LUCK!!! Crossing my fingers Chris.

B

 

Nice work guys... Thanks for sharing your creations and goodluck!

 

Here are a few pics of the engine showing the bridge porting/exhaust porting before it got polished/buffed up and the extra added dowel pins.

This will hopefully be running sometime in the next 5-6days....I'll keep you updated..."crosses fingers"....

Best regards,

Chris

 

Good luck!

 

Thank you very much!

Engine will be going into the car tonight ...

Then I have to install all the peripheries.

We'll know soon enough...

Chris

 

Cue a forum full of people with their fingers crossed for the next week...:D

 

I request a video when it's up and running

 

how many extra dowel pins do you add ?

 

That's a whole bag of worms.

B

 

good luck Chris
I want some dyno after that and the sound clip

 

The stock car has two, its actually four small ones but they count as two. I add two more. One goes right in between the spark plugs and the other one goes one over past the stock top dowel pin. In the pic you can see the two I add.

These two dowels will prevent the dowel ring land on the front plate from cracking under detonation or extreme power which is the next thing to go after you have strong apex seals or if by some weird reason your stock ones don't break first. When this cracks it starts leaking oil even though it remains running perfect. There is also a modification that is done to these bores to ensure that the load is not concentrated on the surface of the plates...this is my technique and I don't want to let it out of the bag. With the extra dowels and modifications....you can pretty much boost it past 30psi if you like and have enough fuel without any issues.

Chris

 

Don't ask me how I already know this