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Mazda is definitely not interested in coatings that only last short term. Anyway, I have good info from better places so just trying to share.
what good info from what better places, rotary or piston?
some people are only too happy to sell you something, anything; out of your pocket and into their own.
I know you mean well. The “imagination” comment is my own personal experience with myself. It’s easy to fall into those things. It’s not going to accomplish what you think it will, because that’s not really the issue at all. That’s the root of the misunderstanding.
As far as the “Mazda” part of the comment goes, I’m sure they weren’t interested in building a new version of the rotary engine that struggles to maintain compression with major warranty issues either, but that you can’t even come to that understanding before making such a reference should give you pause to consider these words.
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Doing something in a factory aplication is not near what you can do afternarket..
The substrate for a good coating is not any material, it is a material chosen particularly to be able to have a very good adhesions with the coating.
It is done on VIRGIN material, that has than been chemically further cleaned and activated. Not something that is cast iron that wil absorb oil like a spunge
You bring up an important point. Part prep is critical to success of these coatings. To remove any oils or other contaminants the parts must soak in acetone for hours or longer, after which they can't be handled bare handed (gloves only). Then they must be carefully blasted with aluminum oxide media to get the right surface.
However, even at the factory the material isn't contaminant free. They use coolants and possibly oils during the CNC processes. So even factory parts have to be cleaned and surface prepped before the can be coated.
No interest in arguing or further derailing this thread. It is an option out there, being used by Mazda and a few in the *rotary* community now. Accept it or don't. I don't care.
1. it doesn’t correspond to making the difference you’re trying to attribute to it.
2. it doesn’t really address the actual issues at the root of the matter either.
Sure, everything may click 100% and all goes well in that regard, but it isn’t likely to live any longer or otherwise excel over any other Renesis engine.
Believing otherwise is just one more magic elixir potion boil&bubble brew that have all come and gone over the last 20 years of RX8/Renesis history. They all thought and said the exact same thing you have above. That was all done before, it’s just not on the forum or intrawebs and thus neither recognized nor known unless you happened to have access to the right people who tried and found out.
hoping you’ll prove me wrong, but not holding my breath waiting is all. No different than me waiting for Kyle Mohan to put that NA hybrid engine biuld on the dyno like he said he was going to do back in Dec-2022, but is instead still pedaling as hard as he can to con someone not informed into buying it and find out the hard way. Which he can then claim it was out of his hands if it proves out the way I’ve been saying.
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hoping you’ll prove me wrong, but not holding my breath waiting is all. No different than me waiting for Kyle Mohan to put that NA hybrid engine biuld on the dyno like he said he was going to do back in Dec-2022,
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Have been researching W/M injection somewhat and drawing some conclusions about how I'm going to do it and why.
1/Port Water injection is another level over and above what I'm prepared to go into. It requires more sophisticated equipment and control.
2/ Injecting pre throttle is the norm for the type of system I've purchased but I feel our intake is just too long and complex, particularly the plastic parts which have cooler walls leading to more condensation on them. Also, I feel like my IATs are relatively under control so this benefit of W/M injection is less important for my system and having a long intake post nozzle to complete evaporation is less important.
3/ If I keep nozzle size down, pressure up, and use nozzles with small droplet size I should be able to minimise wall wetting over the remainder of the intake.
4/ Plan is to aggressively tune for power and not treat the system as 'insurance' like many seem to do.
5/ To counter the risks of (4) I plan to have a couple of safety strategies employed. Failsafe AFR gage to cut boost if system leans out plus a pressure switch in the water/meth line that can do the same should insufficient pressure build in the line.
I've decided to inject post throttle in the 'plenum' area where flow splits into the 6 ports. It will be a two stage system using two nozzles of similar size. First nozzle coming on very early at low boost/rpm with the controller cutting flow down as much as possible to avoid bogging. The second nozzle will be staged to come on just before the APV opens. In this way my hope is that I wont lose too much power as the turbo spools up early in the rev range, ensure there is no lag between going into boost and nozzles reaching full flow and have sufficient flow in the range that I have deemed to be highest risk (6000 - red line)
Came across this the other day which helped me decide how to place the nozzles.
not sure if you just didn’t understand or not watch the video link I posted. If done properly you will make more power than will be lost. It has to be done properly is all, as was explained in the video. The people losing power are doing it wrong. As riceracer from Australia has proven.
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Working WI aplications not counting the M4 can fit on my hand.. And all are developed on engine dyno cell (cylinder pressures closely monitored) and probably few wrecked engines untill the sweet spot is found.. That is not something the average fit and tune can do road, or car dyno tuning..
Brett, I would only run it as a safety system and not increasing power. Inject most of it in "port" configuration. On
2. it doesn’t really address the actual issues at the root of the matter either.
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Actually, he was complaining about carbon accumulation for at least part of the problem (why I brought it up).
We can't all run E85 all the time like Rob Dahm. I mean, sure, that'd keep our rotors clean, but we'd have to fill up the car every other stoplight. hah
I was merely pointing out something that might be of help. No where did I say anything about it being the only or some sort of magical solution for all problems.
I'm waiting to see KM post some kind of dyno sheets on his hybrid builds too... but his pushing hybrid motors and what I suggested are very different.
Last edited by 3toedSloth; 03-17-2024 at 06:38 PM.
https://caredcar dot com/ceramic-coating-pistons-pros-cons/]Ceramic Coating Pistons Pros And Cons | caredcar.com
That's a fake, algorithm-generated, SEO-optimized, click farming site. Not a credible source of anything but clickfraud.
Look at their "about" page. Fake pictures and names. The phone number is for a sports bar that is across the street from the shopping mall their map shows as their offices. It's identical to this other click farming site: https://www.thedigitalwhale.com/about/
Finally got the machining done to reduce the comp. ratio. Didn't turn out as good as I'd hoped as the corners were pretty much ...missed. This goes back to the guys that did the profile file a couple of years ago. They end up around 9.6-9.7 :1
it might help a little, but not near enough. Even though I proposed this idea, I abandoned it almost as quickly because there just isn’t enough meat on the Renesis rotors. But particular after learning that machining the faces rather than the combustion chamber is counterproductive, in general. With a 10:1 Renesis rotor that may not show itself until a lower CR.
For a truly reliable big power 13B you need the S4 8.5:1 rotors or them modified for lower in the combustion chamber area (~8.2 - 8.3 is possible). People say they’re heavy, but they can actually get down to the OE Renesis rotor weight with known lightening modifications. None of that’s going to help a Renesis engine with side intake ports though. Only the earlier 13B engines.
pic of the S4 rotor with EDM modified combustion chambers from Japan, achieving 8.3:1 CR and individually balanced about their center and as a weight matched pair without any other mods
03-03-2024, 06:49 AM
