Ok -that did the trick pretty much , although there is still a bit of overshoot by about 0.7 psi .

Set it at 0 - now seeing 10psi all the way through to 6500 . It then drops off pretty quickly to about 8.4 at 7000 .
Not sure if that is the turbo , the actuator spring the aux. intake valve opening , the pressure drop though the pipework or a combo of all four things .

This boost controller tuning is almost as difficult as the actual engine tuning .

 

Yeah; it can be tough.

That drop off is 80%+ turbo...

 

this is upgraded turbo - I thought it would do better than that .....

 

Hmm, what is the Flowmap for the upgraded turbo?

The TD06-20G; is not going to flow much more than the 18G...at least from what I can tell.

 

Stole this from another thread

 

Yeah; keep it mind that at the top end we are breathing 40 lb/min or air or more.

See what the does to your 20G plateaus?

 

what the .......... what ?

 

The rings for the 20G; AKA efficientcy islands, plateaus...

At top end (RPM*VE*DISPLACEMENT etc)- your air intake is gonna max that turbo and cause it to lose pressure.

 

yeah I see it now - i'm at 38 lbs/min at 6500 rpm (1.7 PR) - just off the map at that point

 

Yeppers - now you see the power of changing snails.

 

also see that my snail is 1/2 way to a 3071

 

And what does half-way mean HP wise.... hehehehe.

BTW - I can hold 10PSI no problem to redline...

 

trying to think of a smart **** answer for that

 

Just call me gay.... kinda the standard put down... LOL

 

so kimi is a *** hag? i find that a waste!!

bret, good job on getting it installed on the right / wrong side.. and right now i would take my time and learn before i jump.

i would get it dialed in on the track with temps and control.. as i know that is your passion..

then i bet lots of stuff will be available. just a guess.

beers

 

For future reference

 

eh?234

 

Just thinking about the aux ports and the benefit of opening them earlier .
I see that the P2s are linked to the aux. port so they come on at same time so only way to effectively do this is through the computer .
There was a thread about this a while back but they did not come to any real conclusions. I think there was no way to do it effectively then - now there is .
If I can get them both activating earlier i think there would be the following benefits
* a bit more power earlier + eliminate the power drop at this point
*eliminate the lean spike at 6250
*Stage the P2s earlier so that the secondaries are not at 100% duty cycle in this rev range .
*Hold a higher psi for longer

Just my thoughts at this stage

 

Dannobre just took them all out together... all open all the time.

The idea being that lag time until we hit boost is so damn short; than any lower end power loss is easily made up by getting and keeping higher airflow in boosted situations.

But if you wanted to be a pure Mazda engineering guy; with TC - figure out the airflow that they open them stock; and then figure out when that is for your new FI-ed-ness.

 

PS - I am not SURE; but pretty sure that the AP will not change the availability of the injectors; so you cannot stage them earlier than stock.

Can Hymee do this?

 

Not sure - i'm just exploring it to see but yeah I thought about the all open all the time idea and wondered if that would be bad to have air going into the aux ports that did not have an injector working with it .

 

Good question... I can't really see how it would hurt as long as your AFR's are still good - I mean it all goes to the same place shortly.

 

Just opened those ports using a bit of Kiwi cunning

Now have to re-tune cause it has changed things around a bit .One thing that was immediately obvious -my vac at idle went down a good 2"Hg . Thought i had blown my motor for a min. but when I reopened the valve the vac came back ...

 

HAHA - yeah mine did that too...

 

Ok I'm finished dicking around with my boost controller and dont like the result i'm getting . IE too much torque lower in the rev range .
Never thought i would say that - heh .
what I want to do is bring in the boost at about 7-8psi then gradually increase it to 10 psi at the top end up until the turbo runs out of puff .
My powermod has an inbuilt boost control and It looks like it may be capable of doing that , it will only output 1A though so not sure if that is sufficient - any one done something similar ?



Also found I had to add fuel after opening the aux valve - implying a few extra ponies are being made .
But It does not drive as well - idle is sporadic and the flat spot at 4k is worse than before .
So I'll leave them operational until Hymee can figure out how to open them earlier