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Brettus Turbo install thread

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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 11:10 AM
  #126  
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Ahh, the PFSC dyno.
Replicate that, please.
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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 11:48 AM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by Brettus
No one has gotten close to that dyno result. Typical greddy turbo result is what mine had. So you'll be doing well if you can hit 280 whp and 220 tq.

Don't get defensive about it - I'm not attacking you
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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 11:52 AM
  #128  
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no worries - not getting defensive . Just putting my opinion across as you know i like to do
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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 11:54 AM
  #129  
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actually, on second thought, because the greddy peaks early, you really might not have any drawbacks with shifting at 7500. The 9k limit is useful if you need to stay in gear for a little bit longer.

Less wear on the transmission FTW.
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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 12:07 PM
  #130  
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On the track, I've played around with shift points and 8200 is pretty much as far as I need to go with all this power down low.
Really, to keep temps down, I end up shifting at 7200.
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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 12:18 PM
  #131  
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Looking at my existing dyno and the difference between my two runs , i'm thinking around 275 -280 hp at 7000 and around 7.5 psi at the manifold is realistic .
The 300 does look a bit high ......
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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 01:28 PM
  #132  
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From: PCB
Now that we are all friends again - let's go pick on some NA people....
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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 01:29 PM
  #133  
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good idea. Those guys really **** me off. Why do they hate having power?
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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 01:34 PM
  #134  
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I know - totally lame;

Let's go shoot some over-rich non-cat turbo fumes/flames at them....
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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 01:37 PM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by Kane
I know - totally lame;

Let's go shoot some over-rich non-cat turbo fumes/flames at them....
hey! wait for me! .... i mean really wait, for a while still
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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 05:21 PM
  #136  
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Originally Posted by mysql
good idea. Those guys really **** me off. Why do they hate having power?
aren't you still N/A?
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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 05:22 PM
  #137  
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Originally Posted by nuke0907
aren't you still N/A?
Yeah, I hate that guy too. He reminds me of everything that is wrong with the world.



I'm waiting for the BHR LS2 drop in kit so that I can make fun of all the FI people. God I hate those guys.
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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 05:25 PM
  #138  
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lol. so were you using an AEM intake with your turbo kit for the MAF housing?
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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 05:25 PM
  #139  
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Pushrods..... who uses those things anymore?
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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 05:25 PM
  #140  
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You can if you wanted. I was using a custom CAI that MazdaManiac made for me.
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Old Nov 23, 2008 | 11:32 AM
  #141  
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Been playing around with my boost controller . Trying to get a steady 10psi through to as high a rpm as i can . Have managed to make 9psi at 7000rpm (so I know the turbo will push enough air ) but this is at the expense of too much boost early on .
This brings a few problems as the huge rush of torque with more than 10psi as you mash the throttle makes the car too hard to control - not what I want at the track.
If I drop the 'gain ' value it is more subdued early on but the boost drops off later.

Have taken to setting the overboost limit down and trying to get the controller to knock the boost down early on which allows a higher 'gain' setting and higher boost later . Less than ideal.

I'm thinking this problem relates to the weak actuator spring and my atempt at overcoming this by winding the rod right in .

Any suggestions ?
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Old Nov 23, 2008 | 01:42 PM
  #142  
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Does your BC have a start boost setting?

If you lower that then it will give you a smoother boost curve (less of a hit) as it wil allow the WG to open a small bit in lower boost.
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Old Nov 23, 2008 | 02:32 PM
  #143  
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/\ yes it does but the min boost without the boost controller is 7psi so there is no room to adjust that ....

What would work is a boost controller that increases the gain value as revs go up - is there such a beast ?
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Old Nov 23, 2008 | 02:34 PM
  #144  
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They have high end BC's that will let you do diff boost levels for each gear, RPM's etc...

But what I am saying; is if your start boost is set to 0 (always opening the wastegate) and you gain and set boost are higher for your goals; it should help it spool up a bit slower. Even though the WG spring is set for 7psi; it will still crack open lower (like 2-3) PSI.
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Old Nov 23, 2008 | 02:39 PM
  #145  
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I have a SARD Trigger unit that has it's own control pump - set zero boost and it pumps the actuator open itself.

Not installed yet, due to lack of turbo (see below)

S
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Old Nov 23, 2008 | 03:06 PM
  #146  
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Originally Posted by Kane
They have high end BC's that will let you do diff boost levels for each gear, RPM's etc...

But what I am saying; is if your start boost is set to 0 (always opening the wastegate) and you gain and set boost are higher for your goals; it should help it spool up a bit slower. Even though the WG spring is set for 7psi; it will still crack open lower (like 2-3) PSI.

I'll try that - I've had it on 6psi and not tried to play with it because I thought it was rendered ineffective by the wg spring ......
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Old Nov 23, 2008 | 03:08 PM
  #147  
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Originally Posted by StealthTL
I have a SARD Trigger unit that has it's own control pump - set zero boost and it pumps the actuator open itself.

Not installed yet, due to lack of turbo (see below)

S
yeah a turbo would be a good start - bummer
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Old Nov 23, 2008 | 03:09 PM
  #148  
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6psi is about the hardest hitting BC setting you can get for that WG and your target PSI of 10... no wonder you are having traction issues. Suprised your not getting boost spike too.
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Old Nov 23, 2008 | 03:10 PM
  #149  
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/\ i am . Last night i mashed the throttle in 3rd the wet - weeeeeee dogggy !
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Old Nov 23, 2008 | 03:18 PM
  #150  
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Yeah; I call that my "bat to the kidneys" setting.

I have one of them that way - just to mess with the V8 guys. But it is not very driveable.
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