Brettus turbo 111 (the ultimate Renesis turbo ?)
08-21-2019, 09:36 AM
#1976
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Right now I have plans to swap in a REW with adaptronics, a large street port and a lower mounted BW EFR 9174 over the winter. Aiming for a 450hp low setting and a 500+ hp high setting. Talking with the engine builder he is telling my I should be able to have full boost (16-20psi) by 3500-4000 RPM.
Reason I'm deciding to go this route is my Renesis is near its last legs and I want those bigger power numbers. With a Hall Effect sensor and TB spacer I'm still going to have cruise, traction, power steering, etc. I had an amazing 10 year run on my boosted Renesis but from the amount of research I've done there is no reason this REW swap isn't going to street drive (semi daily in the summer) as well as and probably last longer than my Renesis with ~200 more hp.
Long story short, I think you can have a near perfectly running Renesis or REW swapped Rx8, it all just matters what you want to spend when rebuild time comes. The REW swap is definitely a lot more money but once the Renesis is out I'll be able to strip my Greddy kit and some other parts off to sell and recuperate some of that extra cost.
Reason I'm deciding to go this route is my Renesis is near its last legs and I want those bigger power numbers. With a Hall Effect sensor and TB spacer I'm still going to have cruise, traction, power steering, etc. I had an amazing 10 year run on my boosted Renesis but from the amount of research I've done there is no reason this REW swap isn't going to street drive (semi daily in the summer) as well as and probably last longer than my Renesis with ~200 more hp.
Long story short, I think you can have a near perfectly running Renesis or REW swapped Rx8, it all just matters what you want to spend when rebuild time comes. The REW swap is definitely a lot more money but once the Renesis is out I'll be able to strip my Greddy kit and some other parts off to sell and recuperate some of that extra cost.
08-21-2019, 11:39 AM
#1977
Registered
Right now I have plans to swap in a REW with adaptronics, a large street port and a lower mounted BW EFR 9174 over the winter. Aiming for a 450hp low setting and a 500+ hp high setting. Talking with the engine builder he is telling my I should be able to have full boost (16-20psi) by 3500-4000 RPM.
Reason I'm deciding to go this route is my Renesis is near its last legs and I want those bigger power numbers. With a Hall Effect sensor and TB spacer I'm still going to have cruise, traction, power steering, etc. I had an amazing 10 year run on my boosted Renesis but from the amount of research I've done there is no reason this REW swap isn't going to street drive (semi daily in the summer) as well as and probably last longer than my Renesis with ~200 more hp.
Long story short, I think you can have a near perfectly running Renesis or REW swapped Rx8, it all just matters what you want to spend when rebuild time comes. The REW swap is definitely a lot more money but once the Renesis is out I'll be able to strip my Greddy kit and some other parts off to sell and recuperate some of that extra cost.
Reason I'm deciding to go this route is my Renesis is near its last legs and I want those bigger power numbers. With a Hall Effect sensor and TB spacer I'm still going to have cruise, traction, power steering, etc. I had an amazing 10 year run on my boosted Renesis but from the amount of research I've done there is no reason this REW swap isn't going to street drive (semi daily in the summer) as well as and probably last longer than my Renesis with ~200 more hp.
Long story short, I think you can have a near perfectly running Renesis or REW swapped Rx8, it all just matters what you want to spend when rebuild time comes. The REW swap is definitely a lot more money but once the Renesis is out I'll be able to strip my Greddy kit and some other parts off to sell and recuperate some of that extra cost.
Ambitious goals. Wish you all the best ...if you pull the trigger.So, where do you plan to drive that beast... track, strip...?
08-21-2019, 02:36 PM
#1979
Right now I have plans to swap in a REW with adaptronics, a large street port and a lower mounted BW EFR 9174 over the winter. Aiming for a 450hp low setting and a 500+ hp high setting. Talking with the engine builder he is telling my I should be able to have full boost (16-20psi) by 3500-4000 RPM.
.
.
I think the new 8474 will outshine the 9174 in a 2 rotor ....worth checking out anyway.
Last edited by Brettus; 08-21-2019 at 02:38 PM.
08-23-2019, 10:47 AM
#1980
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I will start my own thread in the rotary swap forum for further discussion and I'll add more detail to the parts and modifications I have planned for the swap.
For now the car will still remain a street machine but I'm really wanting to start tracking it recreationally. Most likely will drive it regularly around that 400hp mark but still want the ability for 450, 500 hp. This turbo choice should easily offer that ability, but those are just numbers, they are rough targets and I'm not going to get hung up on them; goals may change based on feel once she's up and running.
Last edited by RotaryMachineRx; 08-23-2019 at 10:50 AM.
08-24-2019, 02:09 AM
#1981
Just came back from a track day . This is log of coolant temp vs IAT for the session (around 13mins). Ambient temp was low at 15C and boost was set at 10PSI (around 340ish whp). Really happy with how the IC performed on track with a max of 21C over ambient.
Coolant temp ....well I don't know what to make of the OBD numbers as my aftermarket guage was showing temps WAY over that ...quite confused.
08-24-2019, 08:35 PM
#1984
Registered
I’m thinking the increased delta m/b the sensor failing, or a wiring / grounding issue.
Is the 103C typical for your ambient temps?
08-24-2019, 09:54 PM
#1985
Problem with the water delta is I don't really believe either of the temps. There is no way it could have been holding 91 under those conditions and it def. wasn't 114.
Last edited by Brettus; 08-24-2019 at 09:57 PM.
08-25-2019, 10:51 AM
#1986
Registered
This was first time I've tracked the car for years so ...dunno. Pretty happy with that for oil...still has plenty of headroom.
Problem with the water delta is I don't really believe either of the temps. There is no way it could have been holding 91 under those conditions and it def. wasn't 114.
Problem with the water delta is I don't really believe either of the temps. There is no way it could have been holding 91 under those conditions and it def. wasn't 114.
08-25-2019, 06:20 PM
#1988
Pretty sure oem sensor is fine ............ temp at startup matches IAT sensor and cruise temp matches Thermostat opening and is where it should be.
The aftermarket gauge is all over the place . It reads 82 when oem is 82 just after startup but then moves to 92 over time while oem is still at 82.
The aftermarket gauge is all over the place . It reads 82 when oem is 82 just after startup but then moves to 92 over time while oem is still at 82.
08-25-2019, 06:53 PM
#1989
Registered
my water temp is in one of those racing Beat heater hose adapters,
which seem like not a great place to put it,
but surprisingly , it seem to be very close to the OBD much of the time
which seem like not a great place to put it,
but surprisingly , it seem to be very close to the OBD much of the time
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08-29-2019, 05:35 PM
#1994
Registered
08-29-2019, 07:32 PM
#1996
Registered
Ya mine sounds similar.
08-30-2019, 12:31 PM
#1998
Registered
I always blamed it on the gutted cat.
Ya I found the sweet spot between 5500-6500 rpm on my set up.
Stock tune with:
Coil kit
Gutted cat
MS cai
Jasma cat back (I think that's what it's called it was on there when I bought the car and I found a couple that look the same)
Ya I found the sweet spot between 5500-6500 rpm on my set up.
Stock tune with:
Coil kit
Gutted cat
MS cai
Jasma cat back (I think that's what it's called it was on there when I bought the car and I found a couple that look the same)
08-30-2019, 03:04 PM
#1999
Just thinking about it ...... mine never used to pop at all until I went from a flexible hose intake to a solid one . I'm wondering if it could be something to do with the air expanding the flexible intake as pressure goes from vacuum to atmospheric .....With the solid intake this wont happen and therefore more air ends up surging past the maf. I originally thought it mast have been a leak but my attempts at fixing it never made any difference. This explanation does make sense ...sorta.
08-30-2019, 03:44 PM
#2000
Registered
Just thinking about it ...... mine never used to pop at all until I went from a flexible hose intake to a solid one . I'm wondering if it could be something to do with the air expanding the flexible intake as pressure goes from vacuum to atmospheric .....With the solid intake this wont happen and therefore more air ends up surging past the maf. I originally thought it mast have been a leak but my attempts at fixing it never made any difference. This explanation does make sense ...sorta.
