9krpmrx8's Boost Build Thread
well there is always a time to say " I dont know about this?
Broke two bits? On that little bolt? Damn.
That happen to me once on the little clamp thing that holds the clutch slave cylinder and the engine was in the car. What a pain in the *** that was.
A little hint-- buy an electric torque wrench--you are going to need it sooner or later. Catch one on sale or something?
Broke two bits? On that little bolt? Damn.
That happen to me once on the little clamp thing that holds the clutch slave cylinder and the engine was in the car. What a pain in the *** that was.
A little hint-- buy an electric torque wrench--you are going to need it sooner or later. Catch one on sale or something?
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Well last night my mechanic friend came over and it was a no go. I don't get it, this is a freshly oiled bolt in a new housing. Pisses me off. I am going to try and slot what is left of the bolt with a some high quality chisels I am picking up today. If that doesn't work then I am just going to drill out the rest and retap it with a bigger bolt and drill out the intake manifold to accommodate a bigger bolt.
Luckily it is on the farthest bolt to the right so if all else fails I'll have the LIM tack welded to the iron on that side
I'm actually note even sure it would leak as is but I don't want to take any chances.
Luckily it is on the farthest bolt to the right so if all else fails I'll have the LIM tack welded to the iron on that side
I'm actually note even sure it would leak as is but I don't want to take any chances.
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Yes it has indeed. You have no idea how something so stupid can take the wind out of your sails.
Hmmm had to google that. I will have to see if I can find one locally. Thanks.
Hmmm had to google that. I will have to see if I can find one locally. Thanks.
Helicoil would be the way to go for sure.....if it isn't in the car yet take it to a machine shop and get it done.....I think you must have had some debris in the hole...otherwise it should have been easy to get out 
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Use a hammer and punch to "unfreeze" the bolt, if you can, slot the bolt , it may come out , if not ,drill an appropriate sized hole for an "ezee out bit",all the way thru the bolt heat the surrounding area with a gas axe, spray WD40 into the bolt, this will cause the bolt to shrink a little , and presto ,it "should" come out .
ok here is what has happened to folks concerning this fuel line.
The one I spoke of connects the two fuel rails. They have quick release connectors. Under the quick release connector there is a little red half moon spacer that fits into the end of the fuel line. That spacer is critical for a complete seal.
What CAN happen is the quick connector ( the blue ring thing) can streach out of shape with repeated removal. This allows the little red moon spacer to have room to wiggle. Fuel lines move with varing fuel pressures. If the blue ring is steached enough and it allows the red spacer to wiggle too much you will loose the seal. My incidence happened at Road Atlanta when that connector decided to let go and I lost fuel pressure which leaned the engine out, popping a apex seal. The gas that was on top on the engine was steaming when I pitted. It could have easily caught fire.
Another members car did catch fire and totally burned.
The line can be reused--i never said it couldnt. BUT, if you do secure those quick release rings with a zip tie or worm clap. Once installed the fuel rails etc are all installed you cant see it--dont take a chance with it--just secure the thing. If you want to buy a new one they are not expensive--i think $25 or so.
Yall know if it can happen--it is going to happen to me.
The one I spoke of connects the two fuel rails. They have quick release connectors. Under the quick release connector there is a little red half moon spacer that fits into the end of the fuel line. That spacer is critical for a complete seal.
What CAN happen is the quick connector ( the blue ring thing) can streach out of shape with repeated removal. This allows the little red moon spacer to have room to wiggle. Fuel lines move with varing fuel pressures. If the blue ring is steached enough and it allows the red spacer to wiggle too much you will loose the seal. My incidence happened at Road Atlanta when that connector decided to let go and I lost fuel pressure which leaned the engine out, popping a apex seal. The gas that was on top on the engine was steaming when I pitted. It could have easily caught fire.
Another members car did catch fire and totally burned.
The line can be reused--i never said it couldnt. BUT, if you do secure those quick release rings with a zip tie or worm clap. Once installed the fuel rails etc are all installed you cant see it--dont take a chance with it--just secure the thing. If you want to buy a new one they are not expensive--i think $25 or so.
Yall know if it can happen--it is going to happen to me.
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Thanks for the recommendations but I have tried grabits, easy outs, reverse bits using an angle drill, hammers, punches, slotting, and penetrating oil and none of it has worked. The tools I am using are all Matco so I don't see any other brand doing any better, not to mention Craftsman is now made in China as well. Matco has a special reverse bit/easy out thingamajiggy and it actually drille din perfect and bit really hard but when i started backing it out it got stuck like chuck and the bolt would not budge. So I removed it because i did not want to break my buddies expensive matco tool.
Damn that really sucks man, can't believe it wouldn't come out with the impact driver I thought for sure it would I've used those things to remove bolts that require a lot more torque than that bolt 
I would just bring it to a machine shop and have them drill and re-tap the hole to avoid any further problems, at this point it's not worth risking damage to an Iron over $100.
I would just bring it to a machine shop and have them drill and re-tap the hole to avoid any further problems, at this point it's not worth risking damage to an Iron over $100.
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Did you try giving it a shock with a hammer at the same time as trying to undo it? It pushes the threads apart and usually it'll gradually come loose.
Hey man just thought i would share this with you.
The oil pan you sent me has been modified. It now has an AN fitting welded in for the return line. I am having an AN fitting welded on the oil return tube from the turbo.
The oil pan you sent me has been modified. It now has an AN fitting welded in for the return line. I am having an AN fitting welded on the oil return tube from the turbo.
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That sounds good, AN fittings are the way to go.
