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9krpmrx8's Boost Build Thread

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Old 04-07-2014, 03:33 PM
  #3851  
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
Nope.
hmmmmmm ......I think you should .
Old 04-07-2014, 03:53 PM
  #3852  
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Why is that?
Old 04-07-2014, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
Why is that?
Because the plug is recessed into the hole a long way , spark will be less effective plus there will be a small loss in compression .

To what degree this affects anything ............... I have no Idea . But it's the right way to do it & I thought you like doing things the right way 9k ?


What's the word you used recently ........................... "half assed " ................. yes that was it
Old 04-07-2014, 04:50 PM
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I don't follow what you are getting at, how would a stock (RX-8) RE9 be any more recessed than a stock (RX-8) RE7?

Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 04-07-2014 at 04:53 PM.
Old 04-07-2014, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
I don't follow what you are getting at, how would a stock (RX-8) RE9 be any more recessed than a stock (RX-8) RE7?
The stock trailing 9s have a shorter reach than the leading 7s
Old 04-07-2014, 05:04 PM
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I will have to set them side by side when I get home but at first glance they look like the same length. If there is a difference I would guess it's very minimal and on the trailing I highly doubt it matters. And they last a **** ton longer than the FD plugs. But I will take a look when I get home.

Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 04-07-2014 at 05:11 PM.
Old 04-07-2014, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
I will have to set them side by side when I get home but at first glance they look like the same length. If there is a difference I would guess it's very minimal and on the trailing I highly doubt it matters. And they last a **** ton longer the the FD plugs. But I will take a look when I get home.
I agree that they should be a good choice .............. but also think they should be set to the correct length .
The only reason the rest of us haven't done the same thing is because of the hassle of machining the plug .


Also : you may have problems tightening them once they are machined as the hex will be further in .

Last edited by Brettus; 04-07-2014 at 05:13 PM.
Old 04-07-2014, 05:26 PM
  #3858  
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I don't see how that slight of a difference in length would matter at all. This setup has been running fine for over a year. But I am curious to actually measure them when I get home.
Old 04-07-2014, 05:35 PM
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I do have a pic of the FD BUR9 plug versus the RX8 RE9 plug though. I just think it moves the electrode too close. Don't mind the middle finger, I took this pic for someone else,

(disclaimer: this is the old RX-8 plug style)

Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 04-07-2014 at 05:57 PM.
Old 04-07-2014, 06:38 PM
  #3860  
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
I don't see how that slight of a difference in length would matter at all. .
It's maybe 2-3mm.

I'm not sure if it does or doesn't make a difference...... but It's not something i would do .
Old 04-07-2014, 07:39 PM
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while i hate to rely on old school logic with the renesis, the 7 guys have been doing this for quite some time....
Old 04-07-2014, 11:28 PM
  #3862  
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The longer FD puts the electrode closer on a few mm but I don't know if that is necessarily and advantage or not. This is a pic of a BUR9 FD lug in all the way hand tight a RX8 Trailing RE9B in all the way hand tight in the leading position. The RX-8 stock RE7C leading is supposed to be slightly longer than the stock RX-8 RE9B but I can't find a damn RE7C in my garage.

These are just hand tight.

BUR9EQP FD trailing Plug in the leading position.


RE9B RX-8 trailing plug in the leading position.
Old 04-08-2014, 07:15 AM
  #3863  
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The RX8 leading plug is longer than the trailing by design

There are colder plugs in RX8 leading length available, but they cost $$$

Last year I lucked into about a dozen NGK Iridium RX8 #9 leading race plugs for $18 each shipped, they usually cost $55+ each ....
Old 04-08-2014, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
The RX8 leading plug is longer than the trailing by design

There are colder plugs in RX8 leading length available, but they cost $$$

Last year I lucked into about a dozen NGK Iridium RX8 #9 leading race plugs for $18 each shipped, they usually cost $55+ each ....
That's what I'm running in my car...
NGK (3795) R7440A-9L

IIRC I bought them for around $20 per plug off Amazon, but it was last year too.
Old 04-08-2014, 09:12 AM
  #3865  
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$63.00 a plug. Get some. Gotta pay to play. Thanks for the info.

Amazon.com: NGK (3795) R7440A-9L Racing Spark Plug, Pack of 1: Automotive Amazon.com: NGK (3795) R7440A-9L Racing Spark Plug, Pack of 1: Automotive
Old 04-08-2014, 10:11 AM
  #3866  
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I dont follow the benefit, I can understand using the leading plugs in place of trailing to maximize efficiency. What would switching to a R7440A-9L over a RE9B-L.
Old 04-08-2014, 10:15 AM
  #3867  
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Well for boosted applications you want a colder plug, so you just want a colder plug than a 7.
Old 04-08-2014, 10:23 AM
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Thought the OE plugs were rated at 10 , and Team is NA. I understand FI applications more curious why he uses them. From what I have heard they are more susceptible to misfires over time.
Old 04-08-2014, 10:26 AM
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OE plugs are 7 leading and 9 trailing.
Old 04-08-2014, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Carbon8
I understand FI applications more curious why he uses them..
Because ....race car .
Old 04-08-2014, 02:19 PM
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Also to throw into the debate ..... The plugs with an electrode ... it has been said that the electrodes do break off sometimes in extreme applications ..... I have nothing to back that up with myself ....Just throwing it out there .
Old 04-08-2014, 02:24 PM
  #3872  
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Yeah that is the reason Steve Kan recommended I not run FD plugs, he said that it puts the electrode too close to the action (not his exact words). But you know what they say about opinions.
Old 04-08-2014, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
Yeah that is the reason Steve Kan recommended I not run FD plugs, he said that it puts the electrode too close to the action (not his exact words). But you know what they say about opinions.
The FD plugs (BUR9EQPs) don't have an electrode (that can break off) , which is another reason why we like to use them .
Old 04-10-2014, 07:35 AM
  #3874  
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An NA road race rotary engine will typically run a 10.5 - 11 heat range

For autox we have more idling and also we don't have 20+ minute WOT excursions so I run a 9L/9T or 10T range to keep fouling at a minimum.

The electrode doesn't break, it might come off because of some other poorly thought out ideas being used though .... that's the side of the story some people never hear or figure out ....


.

Last edited by TeamRX8; 04-10-2014 at 07:43 AM.
Old 04-20-2014, 03:34 PM
  #3875  
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All but one of the Stage 8 fasteners work on the turbo. 3 should be good enough with a normal nuts and lock washer on the 4th. But I can grind some to get the lock washer deal to slip on. They will not work on the downpipe except for on two of the studs but the downpipe ones don't tend to work lose.





Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 04-20-2014 at 04:28 PM.


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