9krpmrx8's Boost Build Thread
You wouldn't really have an issue installing the blocking plate without a retune . What will happen is you may get a rich spot at 6500 depending on how much fuel your tuner put in to counteract the lean spot the APVs induce. You will get 2-3psi more boost from 6500 on-wards but less overall flow . Your tune is not tied to boost ,only flow, so will automatically compensate.
I still think that stock greddy turbos should run without the APVs but just turning them off or unplugging them does the same thing as the plate. Problem with installing the plate is getting a seal . Have seen a few people chasing their tails trying to get it sealed properly.
I still think that stock greddy turbos should run without the APVs but just turning them off or unplugging them does the same thing as the plate. Problem with installing the plate is getting a seal . Have seen a few people chasing their tails trying to get it sealed properly.
Maybe I'll leave the APVs functioning for now as I plan to either get my Greddy turbo rebuilt/upgraded or go with a new set-up. I'm kinda waiting to scope out the RX8Performance kit but so far Gregs thread has been dead quiet and given Scotts past I wont even consider it until some of the other members who've said they bought it check back in with a full kit in their hands.
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Hmmmmm.
I didnt get very far with it after I stripped the screw in there. I was planning on drilling it out when we removed the LIM but I forgot.
Also the amount of fuxks I give are very small so long as the valve opens and I can mask it with my cobb.
Okay thanks, and did you mean you think it is better to run with the APV's functioning or closed on a stock Greddy, as you also said you run with yours closed on an upgraded turbo?
Maybe I'll leave the APVs functioning for now as I plan to either get my Greddy turbo rebuilt/upgraded or go with a new set-up. I'm kinda waiting to scope out the RX8Performance kit but so far Gregs thread has been dead quiet and given Scotts past I wont even consider it until some of the other members who've said they bought it check back in with a full kit in their hands.
Maybe I'll leave the APVs functioning for now as I plan to either get my Greddy turbo rebuilt/upgraded or go with a new set-up. I'm kinda waiting to scope out the RX8Performance kit but so far Gregs thread has been dead quiet and given Scotts past I wont even consider it until some of the other members who've said they bought it check back in with a full kit in their hands.
Upgraded - open
If you upgrade the Greddy go with a 20g or To4e 57 or 60 trim rather than the 60-1 . That gives you a bit more flow but retains the quick spooling of the stock wheel.
I'm not convinced that going to a big turbo is a good thing on the Renesis engine after all these years of disappointment from guys doing that .
We'll have to see where my 3076 ends up landing, power wise. I can tell you it's a hell of a lot of fun so far. Build thread coming soon, just want to get it tuned and dyno'd before I start a thread.
Yeah I'll have to agree the results form larger turbos are lacking on this forum, and the more I look into it the better an upgrade sounds; cheaper, more money for more supporting mods, fits my Greddy piping, less time to reinstall, May not have to start from square one when it comes to tuning.
3076 isn't a big turbo really but is probably as close to ideal as it gets for our engine IMO.
I'll post up the details next week, I should be receiving it Wednesday so hopefully I can get it installed Thursday before Kane comes down. FYI.... they only list a 10psi and 14psi version on their website but you can special order it with any spring for no extra charge.
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Okay, first off i just want to say thanks for Teamrx8 for planting the seed for this fix and thanks to my awesome SARX brothers for the help in getting my baby running like a champ.
Let me recap.
I was having hard starts when hot. Not every time but the warmer it has gotten recently, the more it has been happening. I relocated my battery to the truck an assumed it had something to do with that. But after testing everything (even putting the battery back up front to the stock setup), we just could not find any problems and I even replaced the harness that goes to the starter, and tested the starter, related systems, etc as per the factory service manual. I had assumed it was my starter at first and so I installed a brand new Denso starter. Battery was fresh, grounds were good, etc. and it still made no difference. So then I thought it was the coils so I swapped BHR coils and right away it did start better but then in the following days it went right back to doing it again.
So, when nothing worked, I assumed I had damaged the basically new 10,000 mile engine somehow during my self tuning phase over the last 10,000 miles. So I called a Mazda tech buddy and he came over with his factory tester and laptop. We did the test but I could only manage to get 170-172RPM while cranking despite the new battery, new starter, coils, and a booster. Well at 170RPM it still made just barely enough compression at 170RPM to be in spec so technically the engine was ok.
The problem has persisted until today. Teamrx8 had mentioned how much better the S2 starter was in both function and design. So Houstonrx8er and I decided to test out our new rotary diagnostics compression tester and swap the starter from Hoss-05's 09' R3 to my car.
Well, we tested the starting RPM and it was still around 170RPM. We swapped on the 09' R3 starter and immediately the starting RPM's jumped to 260RPM-270RPM. We hooked up the compression tester and I am ecstatic to say that at 260RPM my engine is well withing spec
We did a couple of tests and the results for both housings were around 115psi+/- on each face 
My car now starts immediately when hot with just a bump of the key and it will do it over, and over
So I will be ordering an S2 starter ASAP so I can return Hoss's. So, a new starter can be bunk and still test ok if following the factory service manual diagnostic procedures.
And, Houstonrx8er and I also got my EBC situated and I am at a happy steady 7psi across the rev range and my car pulls like it never has.
Life is good.
Let me recap.
I was having hard starts when hot. Not every time but the warmer it has gotten recently, the more it has been happening. I relocated my battery to the truck an assumed it had something to do with that. But after testing everything (even putting the battery back up front to the stock setup), we just could not find any problems and I even replaced the harness that goes to the starter, and tested the starter, related systems, etc as per the factory service manual. I had assumed it was my starter at first and so I installed a brand new Denso starter. Battery was fresh, grounds were good, etc. and it still made no difference. So then I thought it was the coils so I swapped BHR coils and right away it did start better but then in the following days it went right back to doing it again.
So, when nothing worked, I assumed I had damaged the basically new 10,000 mile engine somehow during my self tuning phase over the last 10,000 miles. So I called a Mazda tech buddy and he came over with his factory tester and laptop. We did the test but I could only manage to get 170-172RPM while cranking despite the new battery, new starter, coils, and a booster. Well at 170RPM it still made just barely enough compression at 170RPM to be in spec so technically the engine was ok.
The problem has persisted until today. Teamrx8 had mentioned how much better the S2 starter was in both function and design. So Houstonrx8er and I decided to test out our new rotary diagnostics compression tester and swap the starter from Hoss-05's 09' R3 to my car.
Well, we tested the starting RPM and it was still around 170RPM. We swapped on the 09' R3 starter and immediately the starting RPM's jumped to 260RPM-270RPM. We hooked up the compression tester and I am ecstatic to say that at 260RPM my engine is well withing spec
We did a couple of tests and the results for both housings were around 115psi+/- on each face 
My car now starts immediately when hot with just a bump of the key and it will do it over, and over
So I will be ordering an S2 starter ASAP so I can return Hoss's. So, a new starter can be bunk and still test ok if following the factory service manual diagnostic procedures. And, Houstonrx8er and I also got my EBC situated and I am at a happy steady 7psi across the rev range and my car pulls like it never has.
Life is good.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; Apr 13, 2013 at 08:07 PM.
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I wish I had know sooner, 
Thanks man, yeah this was a pain in the ***, I was already planning a rebuild, 
In due time my friend.
**** no man, I am not trying to grenade my ****, it is fast enough (for now) at 7psi. I am just glad it's holding steady. This Boost controller is pretty bad *** when you get it sorted out.
I will revisit that after a few months of beating on her.


In due time my friend.
**** no man, I am not trying to grenade my ****, it is fast enough (for now) at 7psi. I am just glad it's holding steady. This Boost controller is pretty bad *** when you get it sorted out.
I will revisit that after a few months of beating on her.
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Hey Houstonrx8er and I also figured something else out today.
1. My FAL fans do heat up intake piping and increase IAT's quite a bit. Gotta get that tray on.
2. This: https://www.rx8club.com/tech-garage-...-102271/page6/
1. My FAL fans do heat up intake piping and increase IAT's quite a bit. Gotta get that tray on.
2. This: https://www.rx8club.com/tech-garage-...-102271/page6/
My car now starts immediately when hot with just a bump of the key and it will do it over, and over
So I will be ordering an S2 starter ASAP so I can return Hoss's. So, a new starter can be bunk and still test ok if following the factory service manual diagnostic procedures. And, Houstonrx8er and I also got my EBC situated and I am at a happy steady 7psi across the rev range and my car pulls like it never has.
Life is good.
Nice, looks like I'll be adding this to my list if new coils wires and plugs dont solve it. Direct replacement right?
Also are you holding that 7psi right to 9000 or still drops off after 7500ish rpm?
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Yeah the 09+ starter is a direct swap. And yeah my boost does fall off the higher RPM but I have yet to really floor it and I don't rev past 8500RPM (Cobb limited).
Wow done, Finally done reading this thread.
I have to say it goes about every way imaginable. and left me with a few questions.
I'll get to them later. some were so far back bringing it up seams like bumping a old thread.
As for the APV MIL. I had the same code after My rebuild. I had to pull my Lower intake manifold away from the block (probably impossible with a turbo. Then loosen the gear from the inside and move the outside gear just a little and retighten it. It took about 4 tries. Each one involved rebuilding the top of the engine and trying it out. But I finally got it.
I'll pull the actuator motor when I get a chance and take a pic of the exact position the outer gear is in.
I have to say it goes about every way imaginable. and left me with a few questions.
I'll get to them later. some were so far back bringing it up seams like bumping a old thread.
As for the APV MIL. I had the same code after My rebuild. I had to pull my Lower intake manifold away from the block (probably impossible with a turbo. Then loosen the gear from the inside and move the outside gear just a little and retighten it. It took about 4 tries. Each one involved rebuilding the top of the engine and trying it out. But I finally got it.
I'll pull the actuator motor when I get a chance and take a pic of the exact position the outer gear is in.



