tamz273

Does anyone have the output specs of the Bose stock head unit? I am thinking of pulling mine out and playing a LCD Touch screen there with my CarPC, but I need to know which amp to buy in order to hook up the speakers... Any ideas? Has anyone done this?

Zepo.

I was curious about this myself, but i ended up replacing them. They're made of paper and by the look they seem to be 20watt. The speakers are time consuming to remove so get ready for a battle if you do

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

They are low-level outputs. Just like RCA outputs on any aftermarket headunit. 2V or 4V.

tamz273

Well then what are the outputs on a Mini-ATX Motherboard Onboard Soundcard? Is there a standard?

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

I really have little clue on that. However, seeing as how any PC speaker you would normally connect to the motherboard are required to have an amplifier to push the speaker, I think you'd be fine. The signal on those connections are unamplified compared to what we're talking about here.

Are you using all aftermarket audio equipment? (Amps, speakers, etc) If you're going all aftermarket, a simple mini-jack to RCA adapter should work. Run the RCAs to your aftermarket amp(s). If you're trying to keep the Bose system, (which I assume you are), Maybe use the same adapters but cut off the RCA tips. Strip the wires back and separate the pin wires from the barrel wires to get your positive and negative. Run those to the Bose amp inputs.

Again, just speculating on what I might attempt. I have never installed a CarPC in an 8.

tamz273

Yeh i was thinking of doing the 2nd option you mentioned... Now I would have to tackle the different "ranges" so to speak... The car PC outputs L/R, but nothing for the Ranges... Will the BOSE amp do that work itself? and filter all the bands and output them to the Tweeters, mids, highs, n subs, respectively? If that is the case, then all I would need to do is wire the PC's Quarter Inch Jack to the Bose amp...

Also, WHERE is the Bose amp located?

Socket7

The input the Bose amplifier is expecting is a low level, differential signal. No PC, or aftermarket head unit is going to have that kind of output, but I believe you could run a normal signal through it without problems. I've no experience with how to do that, you could run into noise issues.

A PC output is either going to be a line level signal or a headphone level signal.

You would be better off pulling out all the craptastic bose speakers and starting from scratch rather then trying to make the bose amp interface with aftermarket gear. you'll get a better end result.

Since it's clear you've never read the audio install sticky perhaps you should start there?

If you really want to keep the crappy Bose amp you can. If you do, you need to stop worrying about ranges entirely because the bose amp takes LF RF LR RR inputs, as is mentioned in the install sticky (which you should have already memorized before working on your car)

tamz273

i actually have NOT read the sticky, but i do have quite a decent background with installing audio... anyways, i was just asking for the details about the bose amp, since replacing everything is too much of a hassle and too expensive at the moment... I will read the sticky, perhaps all the details are there...
thanks

mikeschaefer

I'd like to piggyback instead of starting a new thread. This pertains to the subject, but I could not find it in the sticky.

For the bose system, is there only one amp? So the path goes: Headunit -> amp -> all 9 speakers?

Socket7

There are boxes on the speakers in the door panels. They could be crossovers or amplifiers. I forget which, because I just tore all that junk out, but I'd lean towards crossover rather then amp. The only amp you need to concern yourself with is the one up under the trunk. If you have a navi system, the navi is in the signal path between the amp and the HU, and you will find a pair of wires with colors that don't match any of the wiring diagrams at the amp connector on the harness. The pinout however, is exactly the same, navi or no.

mikeschaefer

Well I'm not concerned with the amp at all really. That POS is coming out. I'm trying to figure out the wiring without buying a wiring diagram or testing it myself. :P

All I need is wires that run from the stock bose amp location to each of the 4 speaker areas, without having to run the wires myself. Plan is to go aftermarket headunit -> aftermarket amp in trunk -> aftermarket speakers. If there are already a pair of speaker wires running from the bose amp area to each of the 4 channels, then life is good. Thanks

Socket7

I ran my own speaker wires though the doors. I don't like the light gauge stuff they use in the stock harnesses, and i like keeping them away from other wires that could cause interference

mikeschaefer

good stuff, thanks for the tip

Socket7

You should be able to re-use the stock wiring harness if you want , but I cant tell you where it is or what colors they are.

forbidden

The modules in the front doors are indeed amplifiers. So you have 3, 1 in each front door and 1 in the rear. It is best to rewire the vehicle when installing new speakers. It is a pita for the front speakers but the sticky I created will help you through it.

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...TID~78731~PN~1

mikeschaefer

What's the largest gauge speaker wire that will fit through our molex?

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

I really wouldn't even bother. I did it on my install and it was TOTALLY not worth it. Even after you undo the rubber, wiggle the molex connector out of the car body, slip your wires through.... it is the hugest pain not only getting the molex back in place, but getting the rubber boot back in place to prevent water from getting in there. I ended up unbolting the driver's door and removing it from the car. Dead serious. Took me awhile, but eventually got it back into place on the passenger side.


If you're really worried about it, you could run your new speaker wire all the way up to the kickpanel, find the factory speaker wires in the bundle, cut them and connect your speaker wire to the side going inside the door, find those same wires in the door, cut them and connect more of your thicker wire. Unless you plan on running 150WRMS or more, don't bother. It sucks major donkey nuts.