Pictures of Bose Door Woofer & Amp
04-17-2004, 02:46 PM
#26
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Re: Pictures of Bose Door Woofer & Amp
Originally posted by CactusGeorge
I'm in the process of installing replacement speakers for the Bose stereo and thought some pictures would be of interest to others with the Bose system.
The woofer is a very strange configuration--very flat and very light-weight. Pictures to follow...
I'm in the process of installing replacement speakers for the Bose stereo and thought some pictures would be of interest to others with the Bose system.
The woofer is a very strange configuration--very flat and very light-weight. Pictures to follow...
Here's the thread I was looking for before - thanks jn for bringing it up with a new post. I just want to upgrade the front door speakers until I get the motivation to take out the rear seats to get to the rear speakers.
CactusGeorge, how does your Bose system sound now that you've upgraded the speakers? Did you upgrade all of them or just some?
Hmm, you aren't the one whose upgraded Bose system stopped working after a week is it? I read that one and got discouraged.
04-17-2004, 06:28 PM
#27
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starbucks:
Yes, my HU fried after a few weeks, but this problem is easily preventable--tie in after the Bose amp with a line level converter!
It is possible to tie in before the amp as well, just make sure that you use a differential-input compatible interface, whether that be a stand-alone device or the speaker-level inputs of an amp. Just to make sure, do an ohm check to ensure that the - (shield) signal are NOT shorted together at the amp or interface!
I replaced the tuner unit in the HU and am now up and running with a Navone N774V (connected at the output of the Bose amp). I suspect that the Bose amp has some built-in equalization (see my thread on Line Converters), but I'm using a 1/3 octive parametric equalizer to try and work out the kinks...
Yes, my HU fried after a few weeks, but this problem is easily preventable--tie in after the Bose amp with a line level converter!
It is possible to tie in before the amp as well, just make sure that you use a differential-input compatible interface, whether that be a stand-alone device or the speaker-level inputs of an amp. Just to make sure, do an ohm check to ensure that the - (shield) signal are NOT shorted together at the amp or interface!
I replaced the tuner unit in the HU and am now up and running with a Navone N774V (connected at the output of the Bose amp). I suspect that the Bose amp has some built-in equalization (see my thread on Line Converters), but I'm using a 1/3 octive parametric equalizer to try and work out the kinks...
09-20-2005, 01:44 AM
#29
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Originally Posted by TPNova1
I am picking up my Sunlight RX8 next week, thinking about installing a CAP (1 farod) to the BOSE.....any ideas if that would work? Or should I install new speakers too. Thanks!!!!!
09-20-2005, 04:55 AM
#30
Ayrton Senna Forever
Replaced Bose system
Hi guys! My audio system ( shortly): Kenwood M9070 head unit, Exide Maxxima Deep Cycle 900A battery, Carpower 5 Farad!!! carbon-hybrid capacitor, 4 pc Emphaser Kick-Basses in the doors for 70-220Hz frequency, 2 liters RF Noise Blocker and dampening materials into the doors, Focal Power 4K Slim (from 170Hz) on the top of the instrument panel in sealed box, Kicker S10L7 SoloBaric in ported MDF-carbon combined box ( light weight and rigid) under 70 Hz, hi-end wires, and Phoenix Gold ZX450 for the kicks and the focals, Rockford Fosgate Power 500a2 for the sub.
It's needed lot of working hours and patience, but worth it.
Some pictures:
It's needed lot of working hours and patience, but worth it.
Some pictures:
Last edited by ayrton012; 09-28-2005 at 02:57 AM.
09-20-2005, 07:56 AM
#31
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Originally Posted by Rotary Rasp
I put a cap on my bose system. It helped keep the lights from dimming at high volumes.
09-20-2005, 02:51 PM
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My cap punched my battery in the nose, then the ground wire wrapped itself around the cap and strangled it to death. The car has been happy ever since.
09-21-2005, 01:36 AM
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I've been to some audio shops and checked here on this forum and it says the front door speakers are 6x8, but in the picture it shows a round 9inch speaker? I'm guessing a 6x8 could fit in there, or a 6.5, or even a 6x9. What's the deal with this?
It also says the back speakers are 6x8, but I know most people have changed out those and installed 6x9's. Hmmm...I'm just a bit confused here.
It also says the back speakers are 6x8, but I know most people have changed out those and installed 6x9's. Hmmm...I'm just a bit confused here.
09-21-2005, 10:51 AM
#34
Purveyor of fine bass
Originally Posted by Madhops
I've been to some audio shops and checked here on this forum and it says the front door speakers are 6x8, but in the picture it shows a round 9inch speaker? I'm guessing a 6x8 could fit in there, or a 6.5, or even a 6x9. What's the deal with this?
It also says the back speakers are 6x8, but I know most people have changed out those and installed 6x9's. Hmmm...I'm just a bit confused here.
It also says the back speakers are 6x8, but I know most people have changed out those and installed 6x9's. Hmmm...I'm just a bit confused here.
05-10-2007, 11:07 AM
#35
Hi guys! My audio system ( shortly): Kenwood M9070 head unit, Exide Maxxima Deep Cycle 900A battery, Carpower 5 Farad!!! carbon-hybrid capacitor, 4 pc Emphaser Kick-Basses in the doors for 70-220Hz frequency, 2 liters RF Noise Blocker and dampening materials into the doors, Focal Power 4K Slim (from 170Hz) on the top of the instrument panel in sealed box, Kicker S10L7 SoloBaric in ported MDF-carbon combined box ( light weight and rigid) under 70 Hz, hi-end wires, and Phoenix Gold ZX450 for the kicks and the focals, Rockford Fosgate Power 500a2 for the sub.
It's needed lot of working hours and patience, but worth it.
Some pictures:
It's needed lot of working hours and patience, but worth it.
Some pictures:
11-30-2011, 06:30 AM
#39
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Has anyone tried some 8" shallow moujnt woofers for the front doors? I foujnd some pioneers with mounting depth less then 3". Not looking for huge bass just some deep bass.
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