Very nice, especially the water temp. On mine I tried the heater hose per Racing Beat and found the temperature was always approx 20 degrees cooler than the real temp. And then with it installed in the radiator hose got a true temp. but not until the thermostat opens which usually takes 10 to 15 minutes. Just wondering in how it works for you installed in the drain plug and what adapter did you use.
Thanks

06 Shinka, TurboX, Mazdamaniac tune, ls1 coils etc.

 

Its working quite well, no wait time to see the needle rise.
I used a 1/8 NPT female to M10 P-1.5 male Adapter from glowshift, 1/8 male to 1/8 male "short" npt fitting , and a 1/8 female to 1/8 female coupler npt. (these last 2 are used because the sensor is quite long, so in order to fit it I needed to extend it using these npt fittings. All in all I spent $10 for the 3 fittings and am happy I'm getting the direct engine temp. If for some reason the themostat fails, we wouldn't know it's overheating until it probably too late. So this was my solution to try to prevent that.

 

Thanks for the info, going out today to get the fittings.

 

I like being able to read temp before the tstat opens. Have you had a chance to compare temps between your Prosport and Cobb with the sensor in this location? I am considering this myself, but wonder if it will read the same as the stock sensor. I think the coolant is on it's first pass through the motor as it passes this location and may not be as hot as after it comes back around the other side.

 

Better then the heater hose or radiator hose but still not as fast as the stock. Trails the stock by 2 or 3 minutes.

 

I haven’t pushed my 8 to extreme temperatures yet since I live in a desert. But I can tell you that when I leave the car outside on a 115 degree day, on cold starts the prosport will immediately read 110 degrees. On a casual 15min drive the gauge can read 200 degrees while the stock gauge stays perfectly centered, it’s a hot desert lol. I currently don’t have the cobb accessport to compare it with yet.

 

Considering that the goal for manufactures is to keep the stock cluster water temperature gauge needle as centered as possible; this does not make it a truly reliable source for information since it centers itself at a low temperature and keeps centered at higher temperatures. Its not the sensors fault however, its the cluster itself.

 

I think I'll just go this route and test against the stock sensor using the AP. Instead of doing the additional adapters I drilled out the glow shift adapter. I'm a little concerned about the wall thickness but I think it will be ok. Famous last words

 

That's a good place to tap the temp sensor, I considered installing it there as well, but I wanted to see if the coolant plug works as well.