416to212

This is a thread devoted specifically to the install of a self amplified Bazooka Bass Tube - BTA10100. I assume that much of this information will be useful to anyone running a self amplified bass unit or to someone who plans on using the High-Level inputs on their amplifier.

To start take out the trunk carpet lining on the passenger side, Take out the rear passenger seat bottom, unclip the passenger side step plate, and take out your glove box.

1. Running power wire: I ran 10 guage power wire from the batter through the passenger side firewall. I first removed the windshield washer fluid reservoir and then proceeded to drill into the indentation for the JDM steering column. I then put a grommet into the hole and fished the power wire into the cockpit with a wire coat hanger. For added security against moisture, I wrapped the area with gum-gum tape (sticky black tape used seal holes - got some for free at a local car audio store). There is a helpful how-to here: https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ght=power+wire
I then ran the power wire along the passenger side of the car and exited in the trunk.

2. Running ground wire: I connected 10 guage ground wire to the seat belt bolt that is exposed when the rear passenger side seat is lifted out. There are many grounding points and alternatives to run back to battery, but this ground works clean enough for this application.



3. Tapping for High Level Inputs: It is absolutely better to tap into the high level inputs after they have been processed by the Bose amp in this Bazooka install (trust me, I've tried the other option). I taped the blue colored plug that goes into the Bose amp for the following wires:
Left Rear - is Pink
Left Rear+ is Violet
Right Rear- is Black/Blue
Right Rear+ is White/Blue



4. Remote turn on: The BTA10100 has an auto turn-on loop. Basically it turns on when there is a signal in the wires. However, do not use this feature as any movement of your 6x9's will cause your tube to turn 'on' and you will get a sustained bass note even when the car has been turned off. Wire your remote turn on lead to the Pink/Black wire on the blue plugged harness that plugs into your Bose amp - only this location will turn on the amp without any popping sounds. The cigarette lighter tap will cause your tube to 'pop' on. Beleive me, I've tried all three methods and the Pink/Black is the way to go.

5. Mounting the Tube: I placed the mounting straps and bases on my tube and slid it against the back of the rear seats. I marked off where the base mounts hit the back of the seats and then removed the tube. I placed each base on the seat back where I marked them to be, then I drilled holes through the plastic cover that covers the seat back. Inside the car I had to remove each seat back and then I proceeded to bolt up (four machine bolts and nuts no longer than 3/4 inch) the bases to the rear plastic. It may not seem too sturdy but even spirited driving does not make this mounting unsafe or flimsy. I replaced the seat backs and then strapped in my tube.




6. Completing install - I then took up all the wires and bunched them together with cable ties to form a clean harness. I then used some harness wrap to cover the entire bundle. I then replaced all the panels I removed from the beginning - glove box, step plate, carpetting, and seat


Pictures of finished install. It's out of the way, easy to remove, and sounds good. IMHO, anything more than the bass output from the BTA10100 in coexistence with the stock Bose system would be overkill, and overwhelming.

frollo

very nice i need some straps like that to hold my laptop from moving

jstkilntim

Clean!

ninjanick

How did you mount the straps?

416to212

Ninja - justed added the text to the post - let me know if you need anything.

Socket7

Good job! very clean.

What were the problem's you encountered when using the pre-bose amp signals?

416to212

When I was wired High-Level Pre-Bose Amp with the BTA10100, I had very little bass output from the sub. Even with the gain maxed out on the amp, the bass heard was only a little upgrade to the Bose system. I could only really hear any bass when the volume was at 20. Anything below volume 12 and I could barely tell there was a sub back there.

After tapping into the lines after the Bose I have the gain at 1/2 max and it has more headroom for sound. Even at volume 5 my music sounds richer and full.

Socket7

yeah. Thats what I had suspected. From what I've read the bose amp applies a pretty wild EQ curve. If you're not replacing the bose amp entirely, I can see how using the Post Bose signal to power your sub could make it sound a lot more balanced.

Makes me all the more eager to wire my LOC into the head unit and see what happens, but first i need to replace my front speakers!

jstkilntim

Post changed since I don't know what the hell I am talking about.

Go ahead, tap your pre amp signals w/ a standard LOC and enjoy your inaudible bass.

kimota

Nice clean install, very nice write-up.. just one question I thought the blue plug going into the Bose amp was signal prior to being processed?

I've a buddy that wants to add a little bass to the Bose system think we may just take this route.

Thanks.

Socket7

Head unit output is NOT pre-amp level. They may have low gain, and require a line driver to be useful, but they are not pre-amp outputs.

I suspect you know this and it's more an issue of semantics and wording things. I just wanted to be clear about this so someone doesn't fry their HU. Always use a LOC like device when tapping signals from the HU.

jstkilntim

The blue plug (at least mine anyway) is input and output w/ the exception of center channel out.

jstkilntim

Try hooking speakers to the HU and see how it sounds.

There are a few things that CAN fry a HU. Crossing or grounding signal wires or hooking it to a device that has too low resistance (be it an amp, LOC, line driver etc.) are probably the more likely. I could be wrong since I have not read it in a while, but I think there is only one detailed thread (by cactusgeorge I believe) on frying a HU and it was only speculated on the cause.

You state use a LOC like device. Not all LOC like devices are equal. Just like all amps, head units, crossovers, etc. are not equal. There are too many variables in each make, model etc. for this to be an accurate statement. I will also concede that I have made blanket statements about using line drivers and it is possible that not all line drivers would be safe in this situation.

It all boils down to using the right component for the task trying to be achieved. No matter what the sticky says, unless the LOC like device is also a line driver, you will not attain maximum results tapping before the bose amp.

bruce_van

Nice write-up. I'll have to bookmark it so when I finally get around to putting a subwoofer in the car.

I just checked eBay and those Bazooka tubes can be had for cheap. I guess you're pretty happy with the sound? Did you consider going with anything else, like the Infinity?

416to212

I bought my BTA10100 for $153 with shipping. I'm happy with it but I'm an ol'skool kinda guy. If you listen to tight bass lines in Jazz, Classical, or Hard Rock, the Bazooka may not be for you. I listen to a mix of Ol'Skool Hip Hip, Linkin Park, and House so I'm content with my pick. It's enough to fill and overwhelm the stock system. I feel that the BTA10100 is a good compliment to the Stock Bose System. I feels like I felt more than $153 on the system... Good value.

I considered the Infinity Bass Link but settled on the Bazooka because I'm familiar with bass tubes from back in the day and I'm also not too fond of Infinity's line of component speakers and coaxials. IMO, Infinitiy speakers just sound too bright and shrill. I like warm tones in my highs. So basically, I decided against the Infinity BassLink because Infinity makes component speakers I don't like - I know, it doesn't make sense.

I also felt that the Bazooka was lighter, easier to remove and mount, and looked better.

416to212

Just updated info about Remote Turn-On wire tapping in the main post.

michan318

Thanks for the informative guide. It really helped me plan/install my bta10200 in my rx8. Initially, had a little trouble getting my sub over here in Japan, but once received the install was a piece of cheese cake. I just wish that Mazda didn't use this proprietary head unit with it's so-called frequency flattening "feature," that just waters any potential the sub has.

M52Cat

does this install work for bazooka tubes that dont have the built in amplifier? i know you still need an amp but will the wiring still be the same?

416to212

M52Cat. If the amp you are using to power your non-amp'd Bazooka tube has Line Level Inputs this DYI will help you install that amp.

If your amp has only RCA inputs you will need to us a Line Level Convertor which is another slightly different DYI.

nomic

has anyone got the mazda rx-8 AMP pin out diagram please 55 plate

boricua13

I might be able to get it. What year? S1 or S2?