Bose: tapping front tweater line level/pre-amp wires at rear deck amplifier
09-28-2005, 01:08 PM
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Bose: tapping front tweater line level/pre-amp wires at rear deck amplifier
At the rear deck amplifier black plug: All I need is the color combinations of the line level-in wires from the head unit of the front three tweaters. We already have the rear speakers diagrammed and color coded at that rear plug. Now, which ones are for the fronts? Polarity would be nice to know too! 
09-28-2005, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Rotary Rasp
The rear amp doesn't power the door speakers. Let me know if you find the polarity because i've been looking all over.
09-30-2005, 10:13 AM
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Just to let you guys know.
The signals that comes out of the Bose to power the front speakers are speaker level. Those signals directly power the front tweeters. In addition, the front door amplifiers also tap the signal and re-amplify the bass portion to power the front woofers.
That signal is most certainly NOT LINE LEVEL. It is very much speaker level and it has a DC component.
-Mr. Wigggles
The signals that comes out of the Bose to power the front speakers are speaker level. Those signals directly power the front tweeters. In addition, the front door amplifiers also tap the signal and re-amplify the bass portion to power the front woofers.
That signal is most certainly NOT LINE LEVEL. It is very much speaker level and it has a DC component.
-Mr. Wigggles
Last edited by MrWigggles; 09-30-2005 at 10:16 AM.
10-01-2005, 02:06 AM
#5
Thews8
i have some new goddies that convert to line from Speaker and the other way around.
http://www.mazdaparts.com/CategoryPr...at=P.I.E.:More
I am makeing a new PIe section for all there stuff all makes ..
Email me if you see somthing ill have prices up soon..
Also Look at www.pie.net and i can get you anything there.
http://www.mazdaparts.com/CategoryPr...at=P.I.E.:More
I am makeing a new PIe section for all there stuff all makes ..
Email me if you see somthing ill have prices up soon..
Also Look at www.pie.net and i can get you anything there.
10-02-2005, 04:07 PM
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So far so good. It looks like installing a Basslink is much easier than previously thought.
After working with my father, who is an electrical engineer and audiophile, we've figured out that you do not need to run the power line to the battery, instead you can tap it from the rear amp power plug. You can do the same for the ground. Also, front and rear line level signals are present at the rear amplifier too. So in other words, everything you need to power a Basslink (or most any other amplifier/sub combo) is right there in the trunk.
I've used T-tap in connectors with all of the wires, including the power and ground wires that are going into the Bose amp. I've taken the tapped in power wires and run them into the Basslink amp. A capacitor between the tap and the Basslink amp should improve the power consistancy into the Basslink amp because the 12 gauge wire that carries the power is barely too small to carry the total watts needed for everything. I'll be getting that installed shortly. The math behind all this is coming.
Meanwhile, I've run into phase cancellation. When I fade to the front, I get plenty of bass. When I fade to the rear, I get plenty of bass. But when I fade to the middle, the bass dissipates. So the next step is to double check the polarity of all the channels. And that's difficult to do when you only have the color codes for the rear channels. Does anyone have the color codes for the front?
I'll come back with the mathmatical equations and figures that prove that this setup will NOT result in any sonic loss using the existing lines already present in the Bose system. Also, I'll post some pictures of the connectors that I'm using.
More importantly, so far everything sounds good eventhough I'm not using a capacitor and only using two channels
After working with my father, who is an electrical engineer and audiophile, we've figured out that you do not need to run the power line to the battery, instead you can tap it from the rear amp power plug. You can do the same for the ground. Also, front and rear line level signals are present at the rear amplifier too. So in other words, everything you need to power a Basslink (or most any other amplifier/sub combo) is right there in the trunk.
I've used T-tap in connectors with all of the wires, including the power and ground wires that are going into the Bose amp. I've taken the tapped in power wires and run them into the Basslink amp. A capacitor between the tap and the Basslink amp should improve the power consistancy into the Basslink amp because the 12 gauge wire that carries the power is barely too small to carry the total watts needed for everything. I'll be getting that installed shortly. The math behind all this is coming.
Meanwhile, I've run into phase cancellation. When I fade to the front, I get plenty of bass. When I fade to the rear, I get plenty of bass. But when I fade to the middle, the bass dissipates. So the next step is to double check the polarity of all the channels. And that's difficult to do when you only have the color codes for the rear channels. Does anyone have the color codes for the front?
I'll come back with the mathmatical equations and figures that prove that this setup will NOT result in any sonic loss using the existing lines already present in the Bose system. Also, I'll post some pictures of the connectors that I'm using.
More importantly, so far everything sounds good eventhough I'm not using a capacitor and only using two channels
10-02-2005, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by MrWigggles
Just to let you guys know.
The signals that comes out of the Bose to power the front speakers are speaker level. Those signals directly power the front tweeters. In addition, the front door amplifiers also tap the signal and re-amplify the bass portion to power the front woofers.
That signal is most certainly NOT LINE LEVEL. It is very much speaker level and it has a DC component.
-Mr. Wigggles
The signals that comes out of the Bose to power the front speakers are speaker level. Those signals directly power the front tweeters. In addition, the front door amplifiers also tap the signal and re-amplify the bass portion to power the front woofers.
That signal is most certainly NOT LINE LEVEL. It is very much speaker level and it has a DC component.
-Mr. Wigggles
i am just curious, but how can an audio signal have a DC component? if any type of dc signal were applied to a speaker, the speaker would move then hold position.
10-02-2005, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by JonnBCookin
So far so good. It looks like installing a Basslink is much easier than previously thought.
After working with my father, who is an electrical engineer and audiophile, we've figured out that you do not need to run the power line to the battery, instead you can tap it from the rear amp power plug. You can do the same for the ground. Also, front and rear line level signals are present at the rear amplifier too. So in other words, everything you need to power a Basslink (or most any other amplifier/sub combo) is right there in the trunk.
I've used T-tap in connectors with all of the wires, including the power and ground wires that are going into the Bose amp. I've taken the tapped in power wires and run them into the Basslink amp. A capacitor between the tap and the Basslink amp should improve the power consistancy into the Basslink amp because the 12 gauge wire that carries the power is barely too small to carry the total watts needed for everything. I'll be getting that installed shortly. The math behind all this is coming.
Meanwhile, I've run into phase cancellation. When I fade to the front, I get plenty of bass. When I fade to the rear, I get plenty of bass. But when I fade to the middle, the bass dissipates. So the next step is to double check the polarity of all the channels. And that's difficult to do when you only have the color codes for the rear channels. Does anyone have the color codes for the front?
I'll come back with the mathmatical equations and figures that prove that this setup will NOT result in any sonic loss using the existing lines already present in the Bose system. Also, I'll post some pictures of the connectors that I'm using.
More importantly, so far everything sounds good eventhough I'm not using a capacitor and only using two channels
After working with my father, who is an electrical engineer and audiophile, we've figured out that you do not need to run the power line to the battery, instead you can tap it from the rear amp power plug. You can do the same for the ground. Also, front and rear line level signals are present at the rear amplifier too. So in other words, everything you need to power a Basslink (or most any other amplifier/sub combo) is right there in the trunk.
I've used T-tap in connectors with all of the wires, including the power and ground wires that are going into the Bose amp. I've taken the tapped in power wires and run them into the Basslink amp. A capacitor between the tap and the Basslink amp should improve the power consistancy into the Basslink amp because the 12 gauge wire that carries the power is barely too small to carry the total watts needed for everything. I'll be getting that installed shortly. The math behind all this is coming.
Meanwhile, I've run into phase cancellation. When I fade to the front, I get plenty of bass. When I fade to the rear, I get plenty of bass. But when I fade to the middle, the bass dissipates. So the next step is to double check the polarity of all the channels. And that's difficult to do when you only have the color codes for the rear channels. Does anyone have the color codes for the front?
I'll come back with the mathmatical equations and figures that prove that this setup will NOT result in any sonic loss using the existing lines already present in the Bose system. Also, I'll post some pictures of the connectors that I'm using.
More importantly, so far everything sounds good eventhough I'm not using a capacitor and only using two channels
10-03-2005, 01:50 PM
#9
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Originally Posted by lurch519
i am just curious, but how can an audio signal have a DC component? if any type of dc signal were applied to a speaker, the speaker would move then hold position.
It is called a Bridge Tied Load amplifier. It is how you get 24 volt peak to peak swing on your speaker from an amplifier that is directly powered from only 12V battery. The 24 Volt peak-peak translates into about 20 Watts RMS into a 4 ohm load. That is why if you need more than 20 Watts from your amplifier, your amp will need to use a mosfet switching power supply to go up to a higher supply voltage than 12V.
-Mr. Wigggles
10-03-2005, 01:57 PM
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T-taps are also the installers worst enemy. They are highly unrealiable and should be against the law. Please replace these and solder the wires on. Then always remember that freinds don't let friends use Sony.
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