Debadging the RX8
03-30-2004, 12:42 PM
#103
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debadge
Today I debadged. I removed the "RX-8" with a hairdryer and dental floss. I then removed the word "mazda" from the rear w/ hairdryer dental floss then a papertowel covered spatula to remove pin holes attached through frame.
There are 3 pin holes behind the "mazda" emblem not 2 as posted previously.
I got clear silicon past and reglued the "RX 8" in a fashion to cover the 3 holes left by the "mazda". From the inside I patched up the holes with bondo glaze putty to protect from leaks in case there was a small gap in my re-gluing efforts.
Looks cooler, but better if it was all off.
There are 3 pin holes behind the "mazda" emblem not 2 as posted previously.
I got clear silicon past and reglued the "RX 8" in a fashion to cover the 3 holes left by the "mazda". From the inside I patched up the holes with bondo glaze putty to protect from leaks in case there was a small gap in my re-gluing efforts.
Looks cooler, but better if it was all off.
05-18-2004, 03:30 PM
#112
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reponse
Regarding the dash. I was debating putting it on as well then I lost it along the way.
The alignment is slightly different when on the left side, but as you can see from the pics, it works out well.
Regarding debadge and rebadge. That'll work for the RX-8 but not the MAZDA.
When I removed the MAZDA I had to use a bit of force (because of the pegs) and the the MAZDA emblem got bent up in the process.
The alignment is slightly different when on the left side, but as you can see from the pics, it works out well.
Regarding debadge and rebadge. That'll work for the RX-8 but not the MAZDA.
When I removed the MAZDA I had to use a bit of force (because of the pegs) and the the MAZDA emblem got bent up in the process.
04-10-2008, 05:41 PM
#113
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First Dent/Scratch/Accident
Ok, ive def. had a dent...a scratch...and an accident. Nothing major, but when you love to drive, and are reallllllly fcking good at it like me, plus then you never go the speed limit and you always take turns fast and weave, there are gonna b morons who run in to the back of u at a light, or touch and scratch your car, or your retarded cat jumps on it in the garage, or the best so far....drift into the 1 fcking random sprinkler head in the entire few acres of road. So ya, i can drift, but a screw lodged in your tire is not useful. Here is a tip, dont try to be like they are in the movies, ya its cool. BUT it ruins tires, other stuff i probubly havnt noticed, and smells once your done. So, stay clear of that. Word of Advice, baby your car, but take it to the limit and enjoy it. Nothing is worse than a babied car left in a garage or driven slow.
Enjoi
Enjoi
Heh heh. I've noticed many "first posts" in the new sections of the forum. I wonder who will come forth with the "first scratch", "first dent", or worst of all..."first accident"?
I vote myself for "first scratch". Call it a curse I've had with many of the vehicles (*cough* *cough* RX-7s) I've owned. (^_^)
I vote myself for "first scratch". Call it a curse I've had with many of the vehicles (*cough* *cough* RX-7s) I've owned. (^_^)
06-26-2012, 09:02 PM
#114
REW 8 with JDM stuff..
I know Im making a zombie outta this thread, but Im just wondering what yall did with the peg holes when you took them off??
Im thinking of filling mine with body filler and touching them up with touch up paint. Im only doing it this way because Im only filling 3 holes and Im not paying someone to weld it or some body shop to repaint it until it actually needs it.
Also, wheres a good place to get touch up paint? I got some from Automotivetouchup.com and it was crap...
Im thinking of filling mine with body filler and touching them up with touch up paint. Im only doing it this way because Im only filling 3 holes and Im not paying someone to weld it or some body shop to repaint it until it actually needs it.
Also, wheres a good place to get touch up paint? I got some from Automotivetouchup.com and it was crap...
09-17-2012, 11:30 PM
#115
Good question on the touch up.
I just took off the RX-8 badge and used fishing line, I tried floss and it shredded.
I then worked off all the excess adhesive with my fingers, hit it with some goof off then used a light compound, finishing with some Wolfgang Sealant. It looks like it was never there.
Now, I have 2 cans of pasti dip and I am considering blacking out the other 2 rear emblems due to the posts. I am tearing apart my garage because I have, somewhere, an all black MAZDA logo for the left side that came off of my FC. I had the holes welded closed and the back completely shaved in it when I put it in for paint.
Mazda seemed to get it back in 1987 with the black emblems, I wish they did not now.
The chrome screams American Pick Up truck to me.
So, since I am not into shaving the back of the car at this point, I am probably going to black out the emblems and be done with it. Black car obviously.
I am curious if there is a good match touch up paint though, I may get a hair and try to fill in some holes and touch it up.
I am going to stop at a local paint shop and get a quote to spray the back of the car and close up the holes. Just for yucks.
I just took off the RX-8 badge and used fishing line, I tried floss and it shredded.
I then worked off all the excess adhesive with my fingers, hit it with some goof off then used a light compound, finishing with some Wolfgang Sealant. It looks like it was never there.
Now, I have 2 cans of pasti dip and I am considering blacking out the other 2 rear emblems due to the posts. I am tearing apart my garage because I have, somewhere, an all black MAZDA logo for the left side that came off of my FC. I had the holes welded closed and the back completely shaved in it when I put it in for paint.
Mazda seemed to get it back in 1987 with the black emblems, I wish they did not now.
The chrome screams American Pick Up truck to me.
So, since I am not into shaving the back of the car at this point, I am probably going to black out the emblems and be done with it. Black car obviously.
I am curious if there is a good match touch up paint though, I may get a hair and try to fill in some holes and touch it up.
I am going to stop at a local paint shop and get a quote to spray the back of the car and close up the holes. Just for yucks.
I strongly suggest keeping her!
04-13-2013, 11:28 AM
#120
lol. im honestly surprised how easy it was to fill mine in, idk why ppl make it out to be so damn hard and "require a body shop" to do it. easiest thing ive done.
remove your emblems.
make sure ALL of the glue residue is off and the holes are clean.
open trunk and remove the panel on the underside of it (like 10 tabs holding it in).
remove 3rd brake light (very easy to uninstall, youll see it)
put painters tape very very very precisely close around the holes, literally line the tape up with the edge of the holes (yes this will take time and the more smaller pieces of tape you use the easier it is, also cover about 2+ inches area surrounding the holes. (If youre worried about hurting paint, just use 2 layers, this will come in handy later)
get some quality fiberglass and hardener (DONT go cheap guys, and if you've never used fiberglass before I HIGHLY suggest you practice on something, once you get the hang of how it works and how fast the hardener sets in, youre pretty solid but practice is key and I cant stress that enough to you)
mix the fiberglass/hardener.
now you can do this step with your fingers if youre handy with fiberglass, or a small rubber/plastic bar will work fine. put one hand up and under the trunk, and use your other hand to spread and push in the fiberglass into the hole. use the hand that is behind the hole to spread it behind to ensure proper seal so no water can get it. you don't have to put this stuff on too thick, a nice thin layer across the hole is fine, don't worry about excess that is on the tape.
repeat last step to all holes (the 2 holes below the 3rd brake light are very easy, I suggest you do them first to get the hang of it, the other 3 are pretty tough to fit your finger behind so if you have sasquatch hands I would have someone that has small hands to help you)
let it dry for a full 24 hours in a good temp.
depending how much you caked on, use some sandpaper to sand the holes down. I used 400 grit followed by 800. just be careful and don't press too hard or you will slowly peel the tape off and hit your paint (see why I said to put 2 layers on?)
clean after sanding with alcohol.
apply touch up paint. shake your touch up bottle vigorously and make sure your paint is warm (70+). depending on what kind of fiberglass you use, the color of your touch up will vary. for example, the fiberglass I used was a dark green, when I sanded it down and prepped it, it was white, so it was perfect for my paint which is velocity red because it is a brighter color. if my fiberglass was grey, the touch up would turn out darker when I would apply it to the sanded fiberglass. use thin coats, I used about 2 base coats followed by 1 thin clear coat of touch up, wait about 1 hour between coats.
let it dry in a warm temp for a day.
now the hard part is taking the tape off and making sure the paint doesn't come off the holes with the tape. I just pulled off the tape and no paint came off the holes, which is great, but if you are worried about the paint coming off just use a thin razor and carefully outline the edge of the hole, cutting the tape.
remove your tape and inspect your work. you may see very small white spots of the fiberglass that was not painted. this is why I told you to make sure and be very precise and take your time on ensuring the placement of the tape relative to the edge of the hole. but if you do find small white spots just simply put a small piece of tape on the edge of the white spot and gently brush the touch up on to it.
if there is gap between the touched up holes and the trunk, you can fill the gap with clear coat (which is what I did), or you can apply a nice sealant to the paint. I would approach the clear coat method just because it is permanent and you don't have to worry about it anymore.
reinstall 3rd brake light and trunk liner and you should be golden.
ive been doing body work and paint work with my father for a decent time and to be honest this is something anyone can do if you have the time. don't rush it and it wont look like ****. time Is everything in this case and you have to be patient!
remove your emblems.
make sure ALL of the glue residue is off and the holes are clean.
open trunk and remove the panel on the underside of it (like 10 tabs holding it in).
remove 3rd brake light (very easy to uninstall, youll see it)
put painters tape very very very precisely close around the holes, literally line the tape up with the edge of the holes (yes this will take time and the more smaller pieces of tape you use the easier it is, also cover about 2+ inches area surrounding the holes. (If youre worried about hurting paint, just use 2 layers, this will come in handy later)
get some quality fiberglass and hardener (DONT go cheap guys, and if you've never used fiberglass before I HIGHLY suggest you practice on something, once you get the hang of how it works and how fast the hardener sets in, youre pretty solid but practice is key and I cant stress that enough to you)
mix the fiberglass/hardener.
now you can do this step with your fingers if youre handy with fiberglass, or a small rubber/plastic bar will work fine. put one hand up and under the trunk, and use your other hand to spread and push in the fiberglass into the hole. use the hand that is behind the hole to spread it behind to ensure proper seal so no water can get it. you don't have to put this stuff on too thick, a nice thin layer across the hole is fine, don't worry about excess that is on the tape.
repeat last step to all holes (the 2 holes below the 3rd brake light are very easy, I suggest you do them first to get the hang of it, the other 3 are pretty tough to fit your finger behind so if you have sasquatch hands I would have someone that has small hands to help you)
let it dry for a full 24 hours in a good temp.
depending how much you caked on, use some sandpaper to sand the holes down. I used 400 grit followed by 800. just be careful and don't press too hard or you will slowly peel the tape off and hit your paint (see why I said to put 2 layers on?)
clean after sanding with alcohol.
apply touch up paint. shake your touch up bottle vigorously and make sure your paint is warm (70+). depending on what kind of fiberglass you use, the color of your touch up will vary. for example, the fiberglass I used was a dark green, when I sanded it down and prepped it, it was white, so it was perfect for my paint which is velocity red because it is a brighter color. if my fiberglass was grey, the touch up would turn out darker when I would apply it to the sanded fiberglass. use thin coats, I used about 2 base coats followed by 1 thin clear coat of touch up, wait about 1 hour between coats.
let it dry in a warm temp for a day.
now the hard part is taking the tape off and making sure the paint doesn't come off the holes with the tape. I just pulled off the tape and no paint came off the holes, which is great, but if you are worried about the paint coming off just use a thin razor and carefully outline the edge of the hole, cutting the tape.
remove your tape and inspect your work. you may see very small white spots of the fiberglass that was not painted. this is why I told you to make sure and be very precise and take your time on ensuring the placement of the tape relative to the edge of the hole. but if you do find small white spots just simply put a small piece of tape on the edge of the white spot and gently brush the touch up on to it.
if there is gap between the touched up holes and the trunk, you can fill the gap with clear coat (which is what I did), or you can apply a nice sealant to the paint. I would approach the clear coat method just because it is permanent and you don't have to worry about it anymore.
reinstall 3rd brake light and trunk liner and you should be golden.
ive been doing body work and paint work with my father for a decent time and to be honest this is something anyone can do if you have the time. don't rush it and it wont look like ****. time Is everything in this case and you have to be patient!
05-01-2013, 09:08 PM
#121
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I own a 2004 automatic velocity red. removed mine and it was simple for me. I used a very thing dry wall trowel and a light hammer,i put tape on trowel to not scratch the paint under the badging . A few taps later I was done and then just buff out the paint underneath . It is more scary if you haven't done it.
02-05-2014, 05:06 PM
#122
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Can somebody please tell me where the holes are in relation to the badges? As in are they behind the "a" in the mazda badge? Are they on the left and right hand side of the mazda logo?
Thanks
Thanks
04-07-2014, 11:53 AM
#123
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