Still have your air pump installed? There are a lot of emissions related items to hid beyond just this single item.

 

^yes I do ... I will be taking it out soon tho ... won't the PCM still throw a CEL after I disconnect the plugs (doesn't matter if I hide them or not)?

 

That log shows 12 AFRs in upper RPMS - what is wrong with that ?

what injectors do you have ?

 

Once you hid/cancel/remove, or whatever you want to call turning them off, it will not effect your tune or power. Here are the ones that relate to the air pump that I could find:

P0410 AIR system problem
P2257 AIR pump relay control circuit low
P2258 AIR pump relay control circuit high
P2259 AIR solenoid valve control circuit low
P2260 AIR solenoid valve control circuit high

 

^ I get the 2259 due to my air pump being gone.

 

I am trying to get it to like just around 13 ... I am on stock injectors ... The only think I touched so far was my MAF ... so you suggest I bump my fuel tables up a bit?

Aren't my AFR's closer to 11?

 

Looks like around 11.7 -11.8 to me ?

Suggest you do not touch injector scaling at all if you have stock injectors . Just get your maf scaled such that LTFT settles at +/_ 3% then work on your fueling tables to get the desired AFRs .

BTW there is a VERY easy way to scale your MAF . You don't need to get hung up on getting it perfect .

 

Kane's method?

 

My LTFT is at 5% at the moment ... I am afraid that if I scale my top further, I will dip even richer ... how do you feel about scaling the bottom mid section ... from say 140g/s to like 20 g/s

 

Did you change the Hysteresis also? Will you not cool down too much without changing this value also?

 

so i just re read kane's method and ... i failed ... i need to finish scaling my maf

Nemesis, I did not change the hysteresis .... My fans will turn off at 200 - 37 = 163

Although it is a good thing for me to do ... I am not worried because
1) My termostat should be fully closed by like 175 - 180, at this point my fans will be working redundantly as there is little if any coolant flow to the rad
2) I never sit with my engine on for more than 2 minutes (no traffic in PA) as I find the fumes pretty much unbearable (catless).

Once you get moving above 7 mph the fans are set to turn off anyway.

Thanks for pointing that out though ... This will be implemented in my next map however, as I plan on doing a bit more scaling

So this weekend I am going to do a couple more logs and install my BHR coils ... updates to come

 

No Brettus's method

Don't want to confuse the issue for you so best you carry on with what you are doing .
I will say this though again - with NA tuning you don't need to be **** about maf scaling .

With LTFTs there are 3 phases

i'll call them
Idle 0-8g/s approx
off idle 8-18g/s approx
cruise 18g/s -40 approx g/s
40g/sapprox + = open loop

It's the cruise stage that determines open loop fuel trims but you should aim to get them all within +/_ 3 % . any adjustments past 40g/s approx. will have zero effect on your fuel trims .

 

Update:
I just made a new map that I will flash to once I install my BHR coils

Dwell Adjusted to BHR specs (x1.43)
MAF x 1.05 [3.5 g - 20g]
MAF x 1.03 [20g +]

Fan Hysteresi all set to 28 (original is 37)

CELs hidden:
P0410 AIR system problem
P2257 AIR pump relay control circuit low
P2258 AIR pump relay control circuit high
P2259 AIR solenoid valve control circuit low
P2260 AIR solenoid valve control circuit high

next mods after BHR: Catch Can, battery relocation, air pump pull

... big thanks to MM, Nemesis, Brettus, and Kane

map is attached.... datalogs to come!

 

So ... I just went outside to do my BHR coils and realized that I better not attempt to do them since I need my car tonight ... this video illustrates my frustration with BHR Charles fairly accurately as I was reading the instructions...

http://www.youtube.com/v/YIViI2V8jEg...&fs=1&start=26

It is probably better this way anyway since I dont want to be changing too many variables at the same time anyway ... I will instead be flashing to the same map but without the BHR adjustments

 

Well, I was more "asking" the question about the fan hysteresis than telling you to change it. Someone with more knowledge than me needs to verify that one.

 

I think your point was very valid and that's why I decided to act on it ... I am not too worried for now cause the temps around here get to like 70 at the hottest ... I'll have dedicated gauges by next summer ... right now I just use my COBB

 

That is just the value that takes it out of fan mode....

IE Fan ON 200F
Hysterisis - 5 means the fan turns off after 195. It's a little more complicated than that - but that is the gist.

See what I'm saying?

 

Yep - that makes sense. I guess you can also run too cold and change things also in looking at the maps. What is the perfect operating temp? 185F?

I cannot open that PTM file. Is ATR model year specific? I can open another forum members '04 turbo map, but I cannot open yours.

 

Yes, they are year specific.

I like to keep my car at 190-200F... at 203 is when I go into high fan mode.

 

You can only open that map because it was made on your version of ATR

 

ha - that expains it... LOL

FAN1 is a two speed fan, correct? I have mine set:

FAN1 A 189
FAN1 A Hysteresis 37
FAN1 B 189
FAN1 A Hysteresis 37
FAN2 ECT 194
FAN1 A Hysteresis 37

Should I change my hysteresis also? I don't want the car to be too cold.

 

That 37 hysteresis value isnt degrees F...might be .1 degrees each`or something

The value for Metric values is 3 degrees C...makes a lot more sense that it is about 4degrees F

The fans would never shut of if it was 37 degrees...because the thermostat wouldn`t let the temp get that low

 

From the ATR Help PDF

Fan 1 – A Hysteresis
Table description – The amount of coolant temperature reduction (from the Fan 1 – A value) the ECU must see before it turns off Fan 1 – A, after it has been turned on by the ECU.

 

Doesn`t say what the value is though.....think about it..there is no way the fans would stay on till the car gets to 170ish degrees.....what is the thermostat temp

Plus it`s 3 deg in the Metric scale...that makes sense

 

When in doubt, leave it stock.....(my motto)

Just lower the temps to turn them on.