Kane, what's your take on how the throttle fuel gear tables work? I've just started thinking about these and am not home to test it.

From what I can gather they work to give a surge of fuel when you press the throttle. I'm thinking it might be a good idea to adjust them. When I'm crusing and press on the throttle I can instantly have boost.

Is it a multiplier table of some sort? or is it a fuel target?

 

Fuel target, and yes they act as an accelerator pump. I always richen them for boost, look at your AFR curve when throttling into boost and check for any initial lean spots. Those can usually be tuned out.

 

I played with these maps to try achieve that very thing and found that although they do affect afrs , they don't achieve the results hoped for .
Would be interested to see some real world before and after results (with logs) as I have been unable to richen afrs on throttle tip in using these maps.

The way I have seen them work is ineffective for that purpose (for a boosted car anyway).

 

I was able to get those tables to do what the previous two suggested brett.

 

Yomom, How did you set them?

 

well ... this does interest me .... are you able to show before and after logs that demonstrate this ?

I'm talking about AFRs in the period of time between full throttle and full boost (as the turbo spools between gear changes) . This is where I see some lean values which i have been unable to deal with via those maps without making the entire log too rich .

Example below. Note lean spike just before turbo reaches full boost between gear changes :

 

I don't have anything that shows this, but basically what I did was set my values to bottom out. 11.0AFR. So pretty much everytime I stab the throttle she goes rich. Even when not really needed. My gauge would blip 11.0 and come back up. With more time spent on dialing in the map I bet this could have been handled a lot better, but I just wanted to drive her.
Problem now is that she wouldn't start a few weeks ago I haven't done a compression test but from the sounds she made and the way my spark plugs are covered in coolant on the rear rotor, I'm guessing she's dead
I've Been busy with work and house hunting with the wife to really see what the problem is. I'm going to look for a new tuning laptop since my daughter broke mine(2 yr olds are into EVERYTHING) Once I get another laptop I can go back into my map and give more info on what my tune was. I did read that someone has succesfully used windows 8 with the cobb AP. I'll look more into that as well. Could be more beneficial than buying another laptop

 

I'm playing with it and seeing the same results. IF they are set too low. Then it goes rich and comes back up. If they are set high then they do nothing. I'll start a thread on it soon. Just collecting some info now. Plus I've got the change the clutch master/s;ave. So that is delaying more logs.

 

First off...Kane, thanks for putting these videos together. Your time and effort is greatly appreciated.

Is anybody else having issues viewing some of the videos? I downloaded all 12, but am only able to view 1,2,5, & 12. The rest of the videos crash team viewer. I get a pop up window that says "TeamViewer 10 has stopped working". I have deleted and downloaded the videos again, same issue. I then uninstalled and reinstalled TeamViewer, same issue again.

What am I doing something wrong?

 

it's fairly easy w/o vids, let me know if you need help

 

What is the proper way to increase the idle RPM? Im using AccessTuner Race and I see tables under Idle Speed labeled "ECT-Based A-E'". What are the 5 different tables for? I would like to increase the idle from 850 to about 1200.

I seem to get alot of shake at idle at 850 with the 80A mounts I made. If I give it even the slightest amount of gas the engine doesnt shake nearly as much. Could someone explain the different tables? I know how to edit the settings, just need to know what the difference between the A-E tables are. Thanks!

 

They vary by about 10 rpm. Just choose the base idle you want and then add 10 rpm to the tables that have this difference. They have to do with various conditions that the engine might see idle, not moving, moving but in neutral, etc.

 

Ok thanks Team, seems simple enough.

 

Ok silly question, but here it goes...

if you have a good tune dialed in, would you be popping less flames?

Just an observation that I wanted to validate, but for obvious reasons, a stock tune and a catless rotary pops flames like crazy. HOwever, with tuning, we try to target less richness vs the stock maps, and more appropriately scaled injectors and maf sensors.

because of this, i have noticed that i cannot 'pop a flame' buy putzing around and revving high in neutral. The only time i think i have really popped flames since my tune is every once in a while when shifting from 2nd to 3rd after a WOT pull.

Is the though process correct here, that with a good tune comes a reduced chance of flames?

 

Yes, once my car was dialed in the flames went away for the most part. I was pretty bummed watching it on the dyno and never seeing any flames for the video, Occasionally I can manage a good pop and flammage if I am WOT under full boost and shift (from what guys behind me have told me anyway). but for the most part they are gone The kid in me really misses the gurgling, popping, and flaming that I got from the HKS Hi-power when I was NA, that things would do it with barely a down shift.

 

the inner child in me wants to enrich the very top end a bit so that i can poop out some fire at will.

 

when the car is ran hard it will pop flames more often. I dialed in my tune n/a fairly well and every time I would come off the track from a 20min session guys would show me pictures or video of the flames I would spit. I would hear stories of every shift making massive flames.

I did find that during regular driving if I were to drive for 20mins or so I could produce flames on demand. while driving I would push in the clutch and rev up just past 7500rpm around 7000rpm I could blip the throttle again as the revs were falling and produce a flame show. /ricerantics

 

HAHA, yeah - the tradeoffs suck sometimes.

 

has anyone gotten the closed loop throttle A and B maps to do anything? I have been playing with them and I don't think they do anything.

they definitly does not multipy the base map, closet I can tell is a reverse lambda map.

 

The 'CL AF targets B' map can be useful to lower afrs when still in closed loop but WOT at low rpm

 

thanks, are you saying I should just go wot at lower rpm?

 

I've never felt the need to mess with CL. Stoich is Stoich.... so I am not sure what the tables actually do. If it's something you feel like you need to tune, maybe go open loop earlier?

 

That would be idea . I've never had much luck with doing that with anything but the 'Closed loop - exit rpm' table . None of the other CL exit tables seem to do anything. I usually set that (rpm exit) at around 4000 then adjust that 'CL B' table to richen it up at WOT below that .

 

in wot conditions the car is fine, all is good there I don't want to change it.

but if I go up hill or so about 105% load the car wants to go into openloop and sit at 12 or 11 afr.
which is what I want when I hammer down on throttle for wot, but going up hill I feel like 12-11 is just raising the EGT's and wasting fuel, so my thought was maybe I could set up the Closed loop values to run at 13 or 14.

I am going to guess that kane or brettus might say 11 afr up hill is fine, or that I am too rich at 105% load for both Wot and uphill

 

posted at exact same!!