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How to tune your Electronic Boost Controller

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Old Dec 28, 2010 | 03:42 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by NgoRX8
slow and steady
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Old Dec 28, 2010 | 07:11 AM
  #52  
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Just realized my post was probably confusing by me using "now". I have not started using the boost controller yet.
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Old Dec 28, 2010 | 10:24 AM
  #53  
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too slow, lol
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 12:22 PM
  #54  
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Kane (and other EBC tuning masters),

Here's my situation: I have been messing with my boost settings and my car maxes at 6psi almost regardless of what I set the SET BOOST to. Even the START GAIN is at 7 or even 9psi and it stops at 6psi. BUT - if I turn OFF my boost controller (it's the Greddy Profec Spec II) I will hit 15psi and the car absolutely FLYS.

What could be my problem? Current HI setting:
SET: 30%
SET GAIN: 9.5psi
GAIN: 10%
WARNING: 14.0
LIMIT: L.25%

Thanks in advance, I am new to this.
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 01:12 PM
  #55  
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sounds like your solenoid is wired/or piped the wrong way around somehow and you are getting max. boost when you turn it off .

You need to make sure that when the boost controller is off - you have full air flow through the solenoid to the actuator.

Last edited by Brettus; Feb 24, 2011 at 01:32 PM.
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 01:46 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Brettus
sounds like your solenoid is wired/or piped the wrong way around somehow and you are getting max. boost when you turn it off .

You need to make sure that when the boost controller is off - you have full air flow through the solenoid to the actuator.
Brettus,

Thanks for the reply and this will sound dumb, but how can I check that?
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 01:53 PM
  #57  
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From: Y-cat-o NZ
you could take the tubes off and try blowing through it
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 01:56 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Brettus
you could take the tubes off and try blowing through it
OK, so for this setup and controller, the solenoid should be open when it's de-energized, correct? Closed when energized?
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 02:03 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by Stroudism
OK, so for this setup and controller, the solenoid should be open when it's de-energized, correct?
yes


Originally Posted by Stroudism
Closed when energized?
when at standstill - yes .
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 02:13 PM
  #60  
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Thank you, I appreciate the help. I'll check that out tonight if I still have some day light after work. I love the capability of these things, but it's just not working the way it's supposed to.

BTW, how much boost are you running to get 333whp? At 15psi I got 295whp on a mustang dyno.
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 02:43 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by Stroudism
Thank you, I appreciate the help. I'll check that out tonight if I still have some day light after work. I love the capability of these things, but it's just not working the way it's supposed to.

BTW, how much boost are you running to get 333whp? At 15psi I got 295whp on a mustang dyno.
Check out this thread for boost vs whp .
It does depend on how good the design is but if you have 15psi boost to 7500rpm and you are not making 350whp at least then you have to start looking for installation problems .
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-major-horsepower-upgrades-93/horsepower-vs-boost-pressure-comparison-greddy-based-turbos-201475/
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 03:02 PM
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Yeah, sounds like it is wired backwards - AKA fail closed method AKA, external wastegate AKA ticking timebomb.... LOL
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 03:19 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Kane
Yeah, sounds like it is wired backwards - AKA fail closed method AKA, external wastegate AKA ticking timebomb.... LOL
But I would think that a 62mm turbo would make a lot more than 15psi if that controller was keeping the wastegate shut like that.
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 03:20 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Brettus
Check out this thread for boost vs whp .
It does depend on how good the design is but if you have 15psi boost to 7500rpm and you are not making 350whp at least then you have to start looking for installation problems .
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=201475
The car sure feels like more than 295, but who knows? Even at a very rich tune, should it still be over 300 at that pressure?
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Stroudism
But I would think that a 62mm turbo would make a lot more than 15psi if that controller was keeping the wastegate shut like that.
If you think that your WG spring is set for 15 PSI all by itself....... then you should beat up your turbo installer.
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 03:40 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by Stroudism
The car sure feels like more than 295, but who knows? Even at a very rich tune, should it still be over 300 at that pressure?
There is a point at which a super rich tune will cause misfiring and drag a lot of power out - I'm not sure what AFR that would be . Certainly anything over 10.5 should make aceptable power . What IS your AFR ?
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Stroudism
But I would think that a 62mm turbo would make a lot more than 15psi if that controller was keeping the wastegate shut like that.
The WG is possibly getting blown open to some degree just from backpressure .
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 03:51 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by Kane
If you think that your WG spring is set for 15 PSI all by itself....... then you should beat up your turbo installer.
I know, but I just wanted my car back they had it for a month. 6lb. spring in a Tial 44mm WG.

Originally Posted by Brettus
There is a point at which a super rich tune will cause misfiring and drag a lot of power out - I'm not sure what AFR that would be . Certainly anything over 10.5 should make aceptable power . What IS your AFR ?
At WOT it's about 10.5 maybe even a tad lower at times. Should it be higher for a DD?
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Stroudism
I know, but I just wanted my car back they had it for a month. 6lb. spring in a Tial 44mm WG.
?
External WG ? You didn't mention that . They may well work the other way around judging by what Kane said above .

Originally Posted by Stroudism
At WOT it's about 10.5 maybe even a tad lower at times. Should it be higher for a DD?
Between 11 and 11.5 seems to be the consensus as ideal .
Doubt that leaning it off would give you 60 odd whp though
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 04:10 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by Brettus
External WG ? You didn't mention that . They may well work the other way around judging by what Kane said above .

Between 11 and 11.5 seems to be the consensus as ideal .
Doubt that leaning it off would give you 60 odd whp though
10.8 and 11.3 make almost no real difference to my butt; unless you are misfiring.

The extrnal setting is totally different.... and I have done that to myself before; so I'm betting your stuff is backasswards.
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 05:20 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by Kane
10.8 and 11.3 make almost no real difference to my butt; unless you are misfiring.

The extrnal setting is totally different.... and I have done that to myself before; so I'm betting your stuff is backasswards.
I'm a noob with this turbo stuff and understand the basics (don't haze me about that), but how do you setup an external wastegate? I wouldn't know what to do.

And thanks again for all the good info. I don't mean to thread jack since this is about boost controllers, but it's related I guess.
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 05:31 PM
  #72  
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There are three ports, COM, NO and NC

http://www.greddy.com/tech-support/profec-boost-control
Attached Thumbnails How to tune your Electronic Boost Controller-fail-open.jpg   How to tune your Electronic Boost Controller-fail-closed.jpg  
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 05:32 PM
  #73  
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Even the External should be a fail open type - IE the BC should be wired as an actuator type (boost pushes it open) rather than having the boost push it closed; since in the event of a failure.... well, boom.
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Old Feb 25, 2011 | 08:27 AM
  #74  
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I already downloaded and read the manual, but I do appreciate the link and the pictures I don't think were from the manual, right? So for my application, the NC is the only port that should be connected? Is the NO port just left un-used?

OR, that diagram shows you how each port should be setup?

Originally Posted by Kane
Even the External should be a fail open type - IE the BC should be wired as an actuator type (boost pushes it open) rather than having the boost push it closed; since in the event of a failure.... well, boom.
I believe my setup is fail open and I am thinking I need a smaller spring for that wastegate. I read another thread where the guy ran a 2lb. spring in his Tial 44. So - should I buy another and install?

I basically have the boost controller to where LOW will do about 6-7 psi and HI will do 14-15, but if the controller goes out, I'm stuck with 15 and in the Texas summer, that will kill me.
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Old Feb 25, 2011 | 08:29 AM
  #75  
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No, the lowest pressure should always be JUST the wastegate. You need to wire yours like an internal WG. You do not want a boost signal to hold WG closed in the event of solenoid failure.
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