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How Kane Tunes an FI Renesis - Turbo, Ported, Ceramic Seals

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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 06:43 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Kane
The bigger problem is I can feel it....it stumbles ever so slightly and I know that I'm pegging both my gauges so to go past 5 PSI is pointless.

I want 11.2; I'll take 10.8 - as long as I'm not stumbling.... but 10.2 (which may very well be 8.2 as that is really close to my gauge limits)... is too rich.
Ahh. 9:1 and 10:1 are very different.

I have been repeatedly surprised at how much power there still is at 10.8:1 on many applications if the ignition system can handle it. It gives you a lot of ignition timing leeway.
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 06:24 PM
  #52  
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I like your style!

I'll post my next round tomorrow as I have off from work.
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Old Jan 15, 2010 | 04:06 PM
  #53  
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i use to have some pigs!!
OD
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Old Jan 15, 2010 | 06:58 PM
  #54  
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Got behind on school - I'll get around to it this weekend I am sure, but college needs to get done today.
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 12:17 AM
  #55  
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^True, something important, indeed! Anyways, when you are caught up, don't forget to post when you are finished, I'm still trying to "grasp" everything that has beeen said.... haha
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 06:01 PM
  #56  
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Updated Post 2 with my Baseline Findings. I'll do another round tomorrow weather permitting.
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 06:25 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Kane
* 1 Piece ceramic sealed engine - so your results may vary... the biggest drawback I've seen is just low idle speeds cause sealing issues (which is why Mazda went with a 2 piece seal in the first place).
Just noticed this in your first post .
Both my apex failures were at the point where it necks down for the two piece design . One piece seals should be much stronger and get over that issue but at the expense of idle quality .
I don't see the inferior sealing as an issue at high rpm .

Is that how you see it as well ?
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 07:42 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Kane
Updated Post 2 with my Baseline Findings. I'll do another round tomorrow weather permitting.
Originally Posted by Brettus
Just noticed this in your first post .
Both my apex failures were at the point where it necks down for the two piece design . One piece seals should be much stronger and get over that issue but at the expense of idle quality .
I don't see the inferior sealing as an issue at high rpm .

Is that how you see it as well ?
Yup.

I'll take the hit on idle quality and MPG / emissions...once I get past 1500-1700 RPMS, it's game on.
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 08:04 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by Kane
The bigger problem is I can feel it....it stumbles ever so slightly and I know that I'm pegging both my gauges so to go past 5 PSI is pointless.

I want 11.2; I'll take 10.8 - as long as I'm not stumbling.... but 10.2 (which may very well be 8.2 as that is really close to my gauge limits)... is too rich.
As we both know 8.2 is very possible, and that BHR Ignition System will still spark the car up!
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 08:19 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by Kane
Yup.

I'll take the hit on idle quality and MPG / emissions...once I get past 1500-1700 RPMS, it's game on.

sounds like a cunning plan - now make some powa !!!!

Also - makes me wonder why the Esmeril seals are 2 piece .....................
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 07:33 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by J.Cab
As we both know 8.2 is very possible, and that BHR Ignition System will still spark the car up!
LOL - yeah we do.

Originally Posted by Brettus
sounds like a cunning plan - now make some powa !!!!

Also - makes me wonder why the Esmeril seals are 2 piece .....................
I am guessing they are 2 piece for the same reasons the OEM ones are 2 piece.
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 03:04 PM
  #62  
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wOyI2ja8SNI
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 03:52 PM
  #63  
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Something interesting happened today - while making my first boosted runs; I never got my load above 100% and my MAF was at 3.71 V only.

Granted I wasn't boosting hard, but I got to 100% last time for just a quick second Friday.... any thoughts from the other Hymee guys..... is this a bug?
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 06:03 PM
  #64  
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car sounds really nice dude
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Kane
..... is this a bug?
yep - i've seen it a few times . Don't know why it happens - just read 100 as 200 and that will give you the correct load .
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 07:01 PM
  #66  
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What! No way I am hitting 200% load.
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 09:19 PM
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well that is what happens with mine every now and again - it reads 1/2 the load it should and I think the only time it does it is when I break 200
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 11:01 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by Kane
Something interesting happened today - while making my first boosted runs; I never got my load above 100% and my MAF was at 3.71 V only.

Granted I wasn't boosting hard, but I got to 100% last time for just a quick second Friday.... any thoughts from the other Hymee guys..... is this a bug?
if I'm understanding the problem correctly it is a bug left over from the dude logger days. if you drive round without boost for the first log the system assumes you are NA and wont report the load correctly. to solve it you need to start a new file"vin" and hit some boost for the first log you download.
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 06:22 AM
  #69  
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I'm using the Live USB to log if that matters?

I can reset it this evening and see if that helps.
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 10:07 AM
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Unfortunately your particular situation required installing the engine new and breaking it in as FI. Had you been able to break it in on an engine dyno as NA first it would have allowed completing the break in sooner under more controlled conditions. A highly experienced Renesis builder would already have a known safe map with intake/exhaust components already setup for the dyno. The break in process runs the engine for many hours with increasing rpm increment points.

It takes much longer to break in ceramic seals and now your conundrum is you can't operate at higher rpms without also incurring boost. I suspect you're going to need a LOT more miles than you presently have under those conditions before those seals start becoming efficient. Any tuning you do prior to this is likely to require rework.

Otherwise great thread.
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 10:47 AM
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I'm not taking pot shots at the builder so let's not go there. I was just trying to explain myself.

Did you use new rotor housings with the seals?


.

.

Last edited by TeamRX8; Jan 19, 2010 at 10:50 AM.
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 01:19 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by Kane
I'm using the Live USB to log if that matters?
.
You got usb live to work ? Amazing !!!! I have tried several times without success .
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 07:59 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
It takes much longer to break in ceramic seals and now your conundrum is you can't operate at higher rpms without also incurring boost. I suspect you're going to need a LOT more miles than you presently have under those conditions before those seals start becoming efficient. Any tuning you do prior to this is likely to require rework.

Otherwise great thread.
Interesting thought; I think the tuning of the VE map will need rework, but the sensor and injectors are what they are... so I am hoping things will work out ok for me. Though it will be interesting to see if a pull more and more vacuum as time goes by - that would be cool, since the only thing I don't like ATM is my idle.

Originally Posted by TeamRX8
Did you use new rotor housings with the seals?
One new housing.

Originally Posted by Brettus
You got usb live to work ? Amazing !!!! I have tried several times without success .
Yeah man - it works great, set up my live gauges, and then log away. Minues the calc load thing....
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 06:31 PM
  #74  
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Good read Kane, keep it up man!
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 06:41 PM
  #75  
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When do you think you'll post dynos?
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