How Kane Tunes an FI Renesis - Turbo, Ported, Ceramic Seals
The bigger problem is I can feel it....it stumbles ever so slightly and I know that I'm pegging both my gauges so to go past 5 PSI is pointless.
I want 11.2; I'll take 10.8 - as long as I'm not stumbling.... but 10.2 (which may very well be 8.2 as that is really close to my gauge limits)... is too rich.
I want 11.2; I'll take 10.8 - as long as I'm not stumbling.... but 10.2 (which may very well be 8.2 as that is really close to my gauge limits)... is too rich.
I have been repeatedly surprised at how much power there still is at 10.8:1 on many applications if the ignition system can handle it. It gives you a lot of ignition timing leeway.
Both my apex failures were at the point where it necks down for the two piece design . One piece seals should be much stronger and get over that issue but at the expense of idle quality .
I don't see the inferior sealing as an issue at high rpm .
Is that how you see it as well ?
Just noticed this in your first post .
Both my apex failures were at the point where it necks down for the two piece design . One piece seals should be much stronger and get over that issue but at the expense of idle quality .
I don't see the inferior sealing as an issue at high rpm .
Is that how you see it as well ?
Both my apex failures were at the point where it necks down for the two piece design . One piece seals should be much stronger and get over that issue but at the expense of idle quality .
I don't see the inferior sealing as an issue at high rpm .
Is that how you see it as well ?
I'll take the hit on idle quality and MPG / emissions...once I get past 1500-1700 RPMS, it's game on.
1st RX8 BNR Turbo Owner..
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The bigger problem is I can feel it....it stumbles ever so slightly and I know that I'm pegging both my gauges so to go past 5 PSI is pointless.
I want 11.2; I'll take 10.8 - as long as I'm not stumbling.... but 10.2 (which may very well be 8.2 as that is really close to my gauge limits)... is too rich.
I want 11.2; I'll take 10.8 - as long as I'm not stumbling.... but 10.2 (which may very well be 8.2 as that is really close to my gauge limits)... is too rich.
I am guessing they are 2 piece for the same reasons the OEM ones are 2 piece.
Something interesting happened today - while making my first boosted runs; I never got my load above 100% and my MAF was at 3.71 V only.
Granted I wasn't boosting hard, but I got to 100% last time for just a quick second Friday.... any thoughts from the other Hymee guys..... is this a bug?
Granted I wasn't boosting hard, but I got to 100% last time for just a quick second Friday.... any thoughts from the other Hymee guys..... is this a bug?
Something interesting happened today - while making my first boosted runs; I never got my load above 100% and my MAF was at 3.71 V only.
Granted I wasn't boosting hard, but I got to 100% last time for just a quick second Friday.... any thoughts from the other Hymee guys..... is this a bug?
Granted I wasn't boosting hard, but I got to 100% last time for just a quick second Friday.... any thoughts from the other Hymee guys..... is this a bug?
Unfortunately your particular situation required installing the engine new and breaking it in as FI. Had you been able to break it in on an engine dyno as NA first it would have allowed completing the break in sooner under more controlled conditions. A highly experienced Renesis builder would already have a known safe map with intake/exhaust components already setup for the dyno. The break in process runs the engine for many hours with increasing rpm increment points.
It takes much longer to break in ceramic seals and now your conundrum is you can't operate at higher rpms without also incurring boost. I suspect you're going to need a LOT more miles than you presently have under those conditions before those seals start becoming efficient. Any tuning you do prior to this is likely to require rework.
Otherwise great thread.
It takes much longer to break in ceramic seals and now your conundrum is you can't operate at higher rpms without also incurring boost. I suspect you're going to need a LOT more miles than you presently have under those conditions before those seals start becoming efficient. Any tuning you do prior to this is likely to require rework.
Otherwise great thread.
I'm not taking pot shots at the builder so let's not go there. I was just trying to explain myself.
Did you use new rotor housings with the seals?
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Did you use new rotor housings with the seals?
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Last edited by TeamRX8; Jan 19, 2010 at 10:50 AM.
It takes much longer to break in ceramic seals and now your conundrum is you can't operate at higher rpms without also incurring boost. I suspect you're going to need a LOT more miles than you presently have under those conditions before those seals start becoming efficient. Any tuning you do prior to this is likely to require rework.
Otherwise great thread.
Otherwise great thread.
One new housing.
Yeah man - it works great, set up my live gauges, and then log away. Minues the calc load thing....



