ok i was just wondering because i know people were getting rid of there E-manage and such to run AP.

For the users that are running a custom setup that is different from Greddy can the user have this tuned themselves.

 

Get the AccessPORT from MazdaManiac, he will do his best (and it's the best I've seen so far) to get it perfect.

 

Great! The one I have now is 2.375" on the exit, then the MAF then 5.375"

You think I should then do the 3.375", MAF, and 4.375" instead and add the screen? (I have 2 screens from stock plastic airbox.) <-- 4 MAF 5 from my prev. msg...

 

I just wanted to let everyone know that with the AP I had two problems:

1. The AFR's were too rich in boost. This was resolved by getting a CAI with the proper maf housing size AND setting it up so that there was nice smooth airflow (long tube, maf placed far enough back but not too close to the 3.5" to 3" reducer.

Once the CAI was installed, the AFR's were very very good, near 11.1 in boost.


2. The car had some weird bogging issue that took place when I was under heavy load at 8 psi, OR lower load but higher PSI. The car would bog, make a weird noise, and puff out black smoke.

This was resolved today when I replaced my spark plugs. The car drives great. No issues. Solid 11 AFR in both low and high boost.


It's now perfect. The CAI was the key. The spark plugs were likely fouled from driving with such rich AFRs before the CAI was installed.

 

I guess this means I should be doing a dyno run soon... no promises on date. I'm tired after the batt relocation today. And tomorrow I'll be doing coolant flush and oil change, plus trying to tighten the top manifold bolts.

I'd like to wait till I have my turboxs exhaust system installed before hitting the dyno... so likely early next month. Will need to get a o2 bung and lengthen the tips on it before I can even install it.

 

The old spark plugs didn't even look too bad. Here's a pic.

 

Just goes to show you that everything counts.

After a long mountain run today in Tucson, my car stopped fueling in boost.
It is looking for stoich everywhere.
I'm not sure what started it or why, but once the motor cools down I'll start poking around.
I suspect it is the fuel pump ballast resistor again.

 

You weren't up on Mt. Lemmon, were you? A favorite spot of mine.

 

Sure was! Nice drive. Kinda hot today, though.
It was 96° in Tucson today. It was only 90° in Phoenix.
Though, it was 62° at the top of the mountain.

I still have cooling issues that I am going to try to resolve on Monday with the various toys I've accumulated over the past few weeks.

 

The MAF tube, by itself, may work fine if it fits these requirements but people also have to look at what is going on around it.

The i.d of my MAF tube is ~3.4", there is 3" on either side of the MAF, and I have screens at the inlet and outlet. However, there is a transition from 3" to 3.5" at the inlet and a 90 deg transition from 3.5" to 3" at the outlet which goes into the turbo compressor. In my setup the MAF tube fits the requirements but everything around it causes the airflow to be turbulent.

Any suggestions as to what can be done to make the readings more stable? Can a MAF calibration be made that will work with this setup?

 

This is a general rule of thumb, but these suggestions and examples may be helpful. For any MAF sensor, you generally want three times (3x) the diameter (of the housing) in straight tubing before and after the MAF location. Ex. for a 3.5" MAF housing, you would want 10.5" of straight pipe prior to and after the MAF housing, this is ideal. If space does not allow, then I would compromise the length after the MAF housing unless this puts the MAF too close to a compressor inlet. In this case, I would suggest keeping the MAF housing as far away from the turbo, and you can use a shorter pipe prior to the MAF sensor that has a velocity stack and air straighteners to help promote laminar air flow across the MAF sensor. The below two pictures are an example of Subaru implementing this strategy on the 2005+ turbo Legacy GT.


Notice that they shortened the straight tubing prior to the MAF housing, but they also added a small velocity stack at the entrance of the tube, and air straighteners as well. If the MAF sensor is on a turbo charged vehicle, you will want to make sure you locate the sensor in a manner such that you cannot see any part of the compressor inlet if you were to look through the MAF housing. If you install the MAF housing in a straight tube right in front of the turbo or very close to the compressor inlet, then you will never get a consistent signal. The compressor wheel spins at around 12-20k at idle and the sound/pressure waves that bounce off the compressor blades can cause significant turbulence and have the ability to skew the sensors accuracy. This is why most OEMs will have the MAF sensor located away from the turbo and in a tube that has several bends prior in between the MAF housing and the compressor inlet, and is also behind and within a thermal insulated housing that helps cancel out any sound/pressure waves (the air box). The main thing you want to do is provide the MAF sensor with an environment that allows for stable and consistent metering. I will upload a picture of the Subaru WRX/STi turbo/MAF housing/inlet system to give you an example of what is ideal.



Notice how you could not see the compressor inlet if you looked through the MAF housing, and how much inlet tube is in between the MAF housing and the compressor inlet. To help promote a more laminar air flow across the sensor, you can also add an airflow straightener or even a securely mounted screen inside the inlet tube prior to the MAF sensor. I would also suggest that the MAF housing not be made out of any material that easily absorbs or dissipates heat, such as aluminum, steel, SS, etc. I would also suggest you use a MAF housing that does not have any ID changes prior to the MAF sensor, and make sure the BOV recirculates to the inlet behind the MAF sensor and the recirculation inlet points towards the compressor inlet. I hope these suggestions help.

Take care,
Christian.

 

Thank you, Christian! Looks like some changes are in my future.

 

I finally got around to doing a data log of the AP with the new spark plugs.

I enabled a few more logging items, so this should tell a little bit more than the previous log.

The AFR's are close, but I'd like them slightly richer. Given that there are many differences between cars, and that this is a generic map from Jeff adjusted only for my injector size.... Even with the custom CAI, mazsport coils, etc. It's damn close to perfect.

 

Here's a less exciting datalog of me cruising around behind a minivan.

 

After driving for about a week and over a dozen drive cycles with 3_3b, with the CAI, there are no more rich misfires at AFR 10.0. The AFR's at WOT seem perfect, hovering around 11, with the occasional split second spike at 12.5 or even higher, but that number only comes up for one flash on my meter.

But at lower rpms, like below 4k or 5k, when going WOT, there is still the occasional rich misfires at 10.0, unless I let off the throttle for a sec and press it slowly instead. Then it seems to auto-correct.

LTFT is zero all the time while driving.

Idle is kinda lumpy with the occasional stall, but it does not stall often at all. At idle, AFR seems to be jumping around quite a bit more than normal, and when driving, sometimes it seems like the fuel delivery is not smooth, but surging up and down like I'm rapidly pumping the gas pedal. This is only at mild to medium load.

So that disturbing pinned at 10.0 afr rich misfiring at WOT is completely gone, but now I have some low rpm and idle problems (rich), with the jumpy throttle and AFR. I think I remember reading that changing calibrations within a series will not change the trims at WOT. So should I go to 3_4b or 3_5b? (edited (damnnit, i can't increase the fonts in edit? lol): I already did switch to 3_5b but only on the first drive cycle. It still misfires a bit at lower rpms when under higher load so I'm wondering if my spark plugs got a little messed up too)

Another edit: OH YEAH, I forgot to mention that I didn't put a screen before the MAF sensor because I think I read that mysql took it out and it helped with a different probl and since I didn't have one, I didn't bother.

third edit: after reading that, I'm thinking maybe I shouldn't have switched to 3_5b because my AFR's were good and I don't want to decrease fuel?

 

what u say?

 

Sounds a lot like my issues. Do you have something you can data log with?

 

I was thinking of getting something to datalog with but did not look into the different choices in depth. I'm open to suggestions and wouldn't mind getting something. As of now, I can only use my camera and take a video. I'd be happy to do that, just let me know what I should be looking at exactly and will post a video tonight. Thanks.

 

You're in Vancouver right?? I have a couple of dataloggers if you want to play....

 

Sorry wrong thread!

Help me!

What happens when you get into trouble and go somewhere you don't belong?

The danger zone!

Good work MM!

 

I would suggest a datalogger. I have the Harrison unit. But have never tried Hymee's or EFIDude's so I can't give an opinion on those. It was the first thing I got after I bought the car. In order to diagnose problems you need to know what is going on.

 

There is nothing wrong with the AccessPORT that cannot be fixed. The problem is in the different setups. I will still continue to use the AP even if I don't use it as my only engine management system

 

just a quick question is it possible to use AP and inter-x together

 

There is nothing wrong with the map. Better to be safe than sorry.

Just an illustration as to the good work.

 

For a second there I thought that you were trying to run that map turbo'ed