Cobb AcessPORT with TURBO Discussion
03-29-2008, 04:18 PM
#51
My car can go into boost without problem with the 3_0 map, but the AFR is very rich(pegged at 10) when transition to boost and it will fluctuate between 10 and 10.4 after that.
I have the Greddy MAF housing
I have the Greddy MAF housing
03-29-2008, 05:47 PM
#53
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 249
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I wonder what maf housing eviltwinkie is using, and DAN from the other thread. If this happens to them too, I think it's pretty safe to say to throw out the greddy maf housing
03-29-2008, 09:21 PM
#54
I will forever miss my 8!
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Northern Kentucky / Cincinnati
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So I am sitting here all confused...
I got 2 problems
The first time I plug the AP it kept saying I had no connection with the computer
Then I came here and read a little about it so... It seems like I have to turn the key to the on position even though the manual says to keep it in the off position.
So I tried again with the key on the on position however I kept getting the no connection with the computer message
The third time I giggle it a little and the AP finally connected to car computer w/ the key on the on position however after the AP connected it self I turned the key to the off position and when I got to the select map option, I got the not connected message again….
So my question is
Do I keep the key in the on position the whole time?
And is there anything I can do to keep it connected better or I just have to giggle it?
I just want to make sure I have this right rather then guessing it
I got 2 problems
The first time I plug the AP it kept saying I had no connection with the computer
Then I came here and read a little about it so... It seems like I have to turn the key to the on position even though the manual says to keep it in the off position.
So I tried again with the key on the on position however I kept getting the no connection with the computer message
The third time I giggle it a little and the AP finally connected to car computer w/ the key on the on position however after the AP connected it self I turned the key to the off position and when I got to the select map option, I got the not connected message again….
So my question is
Do I keep the key in the on position the whole time?
And is there anything I can do to keep it connected better or I just have to giggle it?
I just want to make sure I have this right rather then guessing it
03-29-2008, 10:40 PM
#57
I will forever miss my 8!
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Northern Kentucky / Cincinnati
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It’s a noob victory :)
The car lives!! 
Test drove the car around the block
I dint go into boost yet however I will try tomorrow in my way to work!
I am currently in map v3_0
My STFT stabilized jumping from -6 to 3 @ idle
My LTFT are set at -20 as of now
The car started right away (not that long crank that I had with the INT-X)
The car drove fine like if stock (awesome job MM)
The only inquiry I have for you Jeff or anyone with experience is my AFRs @ Idle
It keeps jumping mostly from 15.0 to 15.3 sometimes it goes as high as 15.8 or as low as 14.3
With the INTx I had it at low 11s so I am not sure if those new numbers are accurate.
I thought it should be at 14.7 correct?
Any suggestion for that?
Test drove the car around the block
I dint go into boost yet however I will try tomorrow in my way to work!
I am currently in map v3_0
My STFT stabilized jumping from -6 to 3 @ idle
My LTFT are set at -20 as of now
The car started right away (not that long crank that I had with the INT-X)
The car drove fine like if stock (awesome job MM)
The only inquiry I have for you Jeff or anyone with experience is my AFRs @ Idle
It keeps jumping mostly from 15.0 to 15.3 sometimes it goes as high as 15.8 or as low as 14.3
With the INTx I had it at low 11s so I am not sure if those new numbers are accurate.
I thought it should be at 14.7 correct?
Any suggestion for that?
03-30-2008, 02:53 AM
#61
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 249
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hopefully I may have a solution to the greddy maf housing but will know if it works tomorrow. I tore apart the stock maf housing. Well, I just hacked around the cylindrical tube / maf housing, so that it was disconnected from the plastic box. I then cleaned up the edges and now I'm left with a plastic (abs?) maf housing that is 3.5" OD and I think slightly longer than the greddy one. The difference is that this one doesn't taper immediately before the maf, and also there are two perfect 3.5" screens that comes with the stock intake.
I didn't know the stock intake was so nice and perfect and didn't realize that the greddy sponge was such a pile of crap. The stock intake actually has two screens and a long smooth perfect section before the maf. I hacked out these two screens so now I have one to fit perfectly before and after the maf.
I went to home depot to check out the PVC and ABS plumbing pipe but they only 3" OD and 4"OD and I didn't know what to do about a maf flange.
All I need to do is wait till tomorrow and see if I can get some kind of filter that is 3.5" then I will install it with pics and I have a feeling it will be quite a bit better than the stock greddy maf housing. It's longer, smoother, more consistent and will have a screen before and after so it beats it in all these areas. I'll be back with an update tomorrow with pics if it works good.
If this doesn't work, I was wondering if anyone knew if the first section of the mazdaspeed CAI would fit or if the intercooler would get in the way. I could mount this, and just get a custom straight pipe and two couplers. I just need a maf flange.
I didn't know the stock intake was so nice and perfect and didn't realize that the greddy sponge was such a pile of crap. The stock intake actually has two screens and a long smooth perfect section before the maf. I hacked out these two screens so now I have one to fit perfectly before and after the maf.
I went to home depot to check out the PVC and ABS plumbing pipe but they only 3" OD and 4"OD and I didn't know what to do about a maf flange.
All I need to do is wait till tomorrow and see if I can get some kind of filter that is 3.5" then I will install it with pics and I have a feeling it will be quite a bit better than the stock greddy maf housing. It's longer, smoother, more consistent and will have a screen before and after so it beats it in all these areas. I'll be back with an update tomorrow with pics if it works good.
If this doesn't work, I was wondering if anyone knew if the first section of the mazdaspeed CAI would fit or if the intercooler would get in the way. I could mount this, and just get a custom straight pipe and two couplers. I just need a maf flange.
03-30-2008, 08:16 AM
#63
I will forever miss my 8!
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Northern Kentucky / Cincinnati
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just drove it to work (20 miles one way)
This is what your email said I should do
“When you "install" the AP, select "MM 2004 MT TURBO v3_0.ptm" as your starting map.”
My LTFT were today at –22
I was planning on flashing the v3_1b map however after reading your message here I am confused
Should I then flash to the v3_5b map?
PS: car goes into boost with no problem however It gets really rich in the 10s or low 10s.
Last edited by steven000e; 03-30-2008 at 02:23 PM. Reason: spelling
03-30-2008, 01:55 PM
#64
You want the STFT to be near as possible to Zero at idle.
It will always move when you drive.
the instructions are posted. here they are again.
Once the idle trim is correct (a few % one way or another is totally no
big
deal - in fact, up to 12% is acceptable since the PCM can go up to 22%
before it starts to struggle), drive around in various conditions less
that
high load and see if the fuel trims stay within +/-6% or so of the idle
trim.
If so, you are good to go!
Sounds like to me you are good to go. But go ahead and get re-confirmation you are turboed. Safe is better than sorry.
It will always move when you drive.
the instructions are posted. here they are again.
Once the idle trim is correct (a few % one way or another is totally no
big
deal - in fact, up to 12% is acceptable since the PCM can go up to 22%
before it starts to struggle), drive around in various conditions less
that
high load and see if the fuel trims stay within +/-6% or so of the idle
trim.
If so, you are good to go!
Sounds like to me you are good to go. But go ahead and get re-confirmation you are turboed. Safe is better than sorry.
03-30-2008, 02:19 PM
#65
I will forever miss my 8!
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Northern Kentucky / Cincinnati
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah better safe than sorry!
I have the instructions and I have fallowed them word-by-word. It’s just that in my instructions it says that
I should use the v3_0 map to start however MM posted here (few posts up) that I should have started with the
3v_5b map. This is where I feel like I am getting lost….
I just went out in my break and re-flashed the computer from the 3v-0 map to the 3v_5b map
I took it for a little spin around the office building and here is my update:
Idle STFT –2 to 3 (which is a bit better than the –6 to 3 that I was getting with the 3v_0)
Idle LTFT –14 (doesn’t move)
My idle AFRs got a bit leaner though @ 15.4 average (jumping from 15.0 to 15.8) however I probably
need to drive the car a little more
I got 25 miles to drive in the way back home after 5 pm
MM sent you an email (******@nku.edu)
PS: if anyone cares, the AP works well so far with my BOV set to atmosphere (no stalling, which is what I was worried about however you do get a random pop here and there)
I have the instructions and I have fallowed them word-by-word. It’s just that in my instructions it says that
I should use the v3_0 map to start however MM posted here (few posts up) that I should have started with the
3v_5b map. This is where I feel like I am getting lost….
I just went out in my break and re-flashed the computer from the 3v-0 map to the 3v_5b map
I took it for a little spin around the office building and here is my update:
Idle STFT –2 to 3 (which is a bit better than the –6 to 3 that I was getting with the 3v_0)
Idle LTFT –14 (doesn’t move)
My idle AFRs got a bit leaner though @ 15.4 average (jumping from 15.0 to 15.8) however I probably
need to drive the car a little more
I got 25 miles to drive in the way back home after 5 pm
MM sent you an email (******@nku.edu)
PS: if anyone cares, the AP works well so far with my BOV set to atmosphere (no stalling, which is what I was worried about however you do get a random pop here and there)
03-30-2008, 04:28 PM
#66
Any news on the MazSport custom 650/290/780 injector setup? I sent you a few emails Saturday (very early, thanks for your help so late/early.) My real name is Edgar, BTW I know from screen name to real name is hard to remember so many customers.
Thanks.
Thanks.
03-30-2008, 05:14 PM
#69
Then you move to the appropriate flash that negates the trim the best.
If you have a -10 stft, you go right to the 3_5b.
Then, you drive it around for a few days.
Here are the instructions again for those that might have misplaced them:
Save all of the files onto your AccessPORT with the AP Manager.
When you "install" the AP, select "MM 200x MT NA v1_0.ptm" as your starting map.
Start the car and while it warms up, select "live data" on the AP an scroll through the options until you get to "short term fuel trim".
Watch that value and, once the car is nearly warmed up, take it around the block.
If the STFT is a negative value, you will use one of the files that end in "b". If it is a positive value, you will use a file that ends in "a".
the last number before the letter in the file name corresponds to the amount of fuel trim you want to remove. here is the breakdown:
MM 200x MT NA v1_0.ptm - start file, no trim
MM 200x MT NA v1_1a.ptm - adds 2%
MM 200x MT NA v1_2a.ptm - adds 4%
MM 200x MT NA v1_3a.ptm - adds 6%
MM 200x MT NA v1_4a.ptm - adds 8%
MM 200x MT NA v1_5a.ptm - adds 10%
MM 200x MT NA v1_1b.ptm - subtracts 2%
MM 200x MT NA v1_2b.ptm - subtracts 4%
MM 200x MT NA v1_3b.ptm - subtracts 6%
MM 200x MT NA v1_4b.ptm - subtracts 8%
MM 200x MT NA v1_5b.ptm - subtracts 10%
If the fuel trim is off the scale in one direction or another, let me know and I'll make adjustments.
Once the idle trim is correct (a few % one way or another is totally no big deal - in fact, up to 12% is acceptable since the PCM can go up to 22% before it starts to struggle), drive around in various conditions less that high load and see if the fuel trims stay within +/-6% or so of the idle trim.
If so, you are good to go!
Watch your A/Fs at high load. If they start to swing too lean or too rich, let me know.
You should be seeing high 12's in some conditions, mid 12's in most conditions and high 11's in others.
Once you are comfortable with these, you can move up to the "Level II" flashes for more power (and more heat and then the "Level III" for maximum power.
Watch your A/Fs through the "equivalence ratio" display in live data.
If you have any bogging or sluggishness, let me know the range and the A/F at that point.
Expect to see updated files from time to time and let me know if you have any issues.
When you "install" the AP, select "MM 200x MT NA v1_0.ptm" as your starting map.
Start the car and while it warms up, select "live data" on the AP an scroll through the options until you get to "short term fuel trim".
Watch that value and, once the car is nearly warmed up, take it around the block.
If the STFT is a negative value, you will use one of the files that end in "b". If it is a positive value, you will use a file that ends in "a".
the last number before the letter in the file name corresponds to the amount of fuel trim you want to remove. here is the breakdown:
MM 200x MT NA v1_0.ptm - start file, no trim
MM 200x MT NA v1_1a.ptm - adds 2%
MM 200x MT NA v1_2a.ptm - adds 4%
MM 200x MT NA v1_3a.ptm - adds 6%
MM 200x MT NA v1_4a.ptm - adds 8%
MM 200x MT NA v1_5a.ptm - adds 10%
MM 200x MT NA v1_1b.ptm - subtracts 2%
MM 200x MT NA v1_2b.ptm - subtracts 4%
MM 200x MT NA v1_3b.ptm - subtracts 6%
MM 200x MT NA v1_4b.ptm - subtracts 8%
MM 200x MT NA v1_5b.ptm - subtracts 10%
If the fuel trim is off the scale in one direction or another, let me know and I'll make adjustments.
Once the idle trim is correct (a few % one way or another is totally no big deal - in fact, up to 12% is acceptable since the PCM can go up to 22% before it starts to struggle), drive around in various conditions less that high load and see if the fuel trims stay within +/-6% or so of the idle trim.
If so, you are good to go!
Watch your A/Fs at high load. If they start to swing too lean or too rich, let me know.
You should be seeing high 12's in some conditions, mid 12's in most conditions and high 11's in others.
Once you are comfortable with these, you can move up to the "Level II" flashes for more power (and more heat and then the "Level III" for maximum power.
Watch your A/Fs through the "equivalence ratio" display in live data.
If you have any bogging or sluggishness, let me know the range and the A/F at that point.
Expect to see updated files from time to time and let me know if you have any issues.
Last edited by MazdaManiac; 03-30-2008 at 05:20 PM.
03-30-2008, 08:10 PM
#70
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 249
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I ditched my greddy MAF housing and got my modified stock MAF housing installed with a K&N air filter, and started back out, following instructions, with the 3.0 calibration then warmed up, checked stft and will now stick to 3_5b for the next few days.
I noticed an IMMEDIATE difference in the way the car runs. I still need several days to wait for the PCM to stabilize, but I can tell that it is much smoother than normal and afr's just seem less sketchy and less jumpy. Normally they'd be jumping all over the place and nowhere near this stable.
I used the K&N part number RU-2520 because it was all they had. The 4250 would fit the 3.5" OD housing perfectly but wasn't in stock so I just used some double sided tape to make up for the difference. For those who wanna try this out, the 2510 is another option and may save some room under the hood to for a longer maf cylinder.
Now I'm gonna take the stock greddy maf cylinder, cut the tapered part off, extend it several inches on each side with 3.5" OD tubing, and put two screens pre-maf and one post-maf. This should work even better. Anyone who takes the stock greddy maf housing and takes a look at how the air flows should see right away how not-optimal it is.
I'll drive my car around some more and take a quick video of the setup when I get home. This may be a cheap and easy fix for those running the AP and stock greddy maf housing.
I noticed an IMMEDIATE difference in the way the car runs. I still need several days to wait for the PCM to stabilize, but I can tell that it is much smoother than normal and afr's just seem less sketchy and less jumpy. Normally they'd be jumping all over the place and nowhere near this stable.
I used the K&N part number RU-2520 because it was all they had. The 4250 would fit the 3.5" OD housing perfectly but wasn't in stock so I just used some double sided tape to make up for the difference. For those who wanna try this out, the 2510 is another option and may save some room under the hood to for a longer maf cylinder.
Now I'm gonna take the stock greddy maf cylinder, cut the tapered part off, extend it several inches on each side with 3.5" OD tubing, and put two screens pre-maf and one post-maf. This should work even better. Anyone who takes the stock greddy maf housing and takes a look at how the air flows should see right away how not-optimal it is.
I'll drive my car around some more and take a quick video of the setup when I get home. This may be a cheap and easy fix for those running the AP and stock greddy maf housing.
03-31-2008, 12:54 AM
#72
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 249
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I uploaded a video of the stock greddy maf housing compared to the chopped up stock maf housing, but it's already installed. I have pics, but it's on a friends camera. The video doesn't show the two screens that came out of the stock intake setup. There is simply one on each end of the plastic cylinder.
I think there is a significant improvement in smoothness and drivability with this, but there are still problems in boost and medium load with the afr's getting pegged at 10. But this is only my first day on 3_5b and only a few drive cycles in. I don't think this is a permanent solution but a temporary one until we have a proper setup that has a much longer maf tube.
So the difference between this stock tube chopped out of the stock intake is that the 3.5" diameter cylinder has a longer length by at least an inch or more than the stock greddy one. There is also a screen before and after the maf. This is a good temporary, quick and easy substitute while you remove your greddy housing, chop out the maf sensor flange and go weld it into the middle of a proper 12" long 3.5" diameter tube. The problem I see is that if I don't go with a cai, is that I only have about 3" more room under the hood. I think I'm going to put two screens in front of the maf and one after and make it as long as i can and get back with pictures of the new maf tube.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3D2n1peHQc
I think there is a significant improvement in smoothness and drivability with this, but there are still problems in boost and medium load with the afr's getting pegged at 10. But this is only my first day on 3_5b and only a few drive cycles in. I don't think this is a permanent solution but a temporary one until we have a proper setup that has a much longer maf tube.
So the difference between this stock tube chopped out of the stock intake is that the 3.5" diameter cylinder has a longer length by at least an inch or more than the stock greddy one. There is also a screen before and after the maf. This is a good temporary, quick and easy substitute while you remove your greddy housing, chop out the maf sensor flange and go weld it into the middle of a proper 12" long 3.5" diameter tube. The problem I see is that if I don't go with a cai, is that I only have about 3" more room under the hood. I think I'm going to put two screens in front of the maf and one after and make it as long as i can and get back with pictures of the new maf tube.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3D2n1peHQc
Last edited by Grouch; 03-31-2008 at 01:01 AM.
04-01-2008, 08:57 AM
#73
I will forever miss my 8!
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Northern Kentucky / Cincinnati
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just an update
Car feels good after 3 days on the 3v5b flash
Idle STFT is mostly +-2 range, (driving it jumps all over the place from –16 to 18)
Idle LTFT is mostly between –15 to –10 (while driving it is mostly @ 0 however today I noticed it at –3)
The car is still too rich under boost @ low 10s afrs between 0 to 6 psi to pegged at 10 afr anything above 6 psi to 10 psi (I wish we had a better option with the greddy MAF tube)
I am still running lead at Idle (afrs from 15.0 to 15.8) with 15.3 most of the time however it keeps jumping up and down which worries me. Anyone else having this problem?
Car feels good after 3 days on the 3v5b flash
Idle STFT is mostly +-2 range, (driving it jumps all over the place from –16 to 18)
Idle LTFT is mostly between –15 to –10 (while driving it is mostly @ 0 however today I noticed it at –3)
The car is still too rich under boost @ low 10s afrs between 0 to 6 psi to pegged at 10 afr anything above 6 psi to 10 psi (I wish we had a better option with the greddy MAF tube)
I am still running lead at Idle (afrs from 15.0 to 15.8) with 15.3 most of the time however it keeps jumping up and down which worries me. Anyone else having this problem?
04-01-2008, 09:00 AM
#74
yeah, read the accessport discussion thread where I asked the same thing about bouncing afr's while cruising.
At idle, you shouldn't care what the afr is, there is no load and you can go to 20 afr and it would still be fine. The only thing you should worry about with idle is that the idle is smooth and not stalling.
I do not think you will be able to resolve your AFR issue until you replace the greddy maf housing. Being too rich just means loss in power, not loss of engine
At idle, you shouldn't care what the afr is, there is no load and you can go to 20 afr and it would still be fine. The only thing you should worry about with idle is that the idle is smooth and not stalling.
I do not think you will be able to resolve your AFR issue until you replace the greddy maf housing. Being too rich just means loss in power, not loss of engine
04-01-2008, 09:33 AM
#75
I will forever miss my 8!
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Northern Kentucky / Cincinnati
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
While normal driving my AFRs jump as well from the 14s to the 15s (ex. 75mph; 6 gear) time to time, while cruising I see my AFRs go as low as high 12s and 13s however as soon as I left go of the pedal for a sec and push it again, it goes back up to the 14s to 15s range (kind of odd) maybe my car is still making adjustments....
