DIY: Mazda Zoom Power Engine Cleaner (Engine Cleaning, Seaform)
03-12-2011, 04:24 AM
#527
I HATE SPEEDBUMPS!
Did you do it? What happened to your car? Are you okay? Let us know how it went...
03-12-2011, 04:27 AM
#528
Yellow RX8
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Campbell, California
Posts: 870
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
03-12-2011, 09:22 AM
#531
Registered User
I chickened out lol, I know the steps on how to do it, just worried i'll screw something up ( confidence lacking ) its all good i will still do it on my own next week but this time I will have someone beside me that can watch me. I'm sorry to those who missed out on the potential fireworks. So here are your fireworks 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pUgiRxs3aqo
hope it works
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pUgiRxs3aqo
hope it works
03-12-2011, 10:41 AM
#532
Yellow RX8
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Campbell, California
Posts: 870
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'd be more worried about getting the rear rotor cap on.. i can get it off.. but cant put it back on. my dad, with bigger hands, can get it off and put it back on faster that i can even take it off.. does that make sense? no.. it doesnt.
03-21-2011, 03:19 PM
#533
Has anyone tried to decarb their engine by sucking in mix of distilled water and WD40 while the engine is running at 3000rpm like they show in this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ETYmh...layer_embedded
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ETYmh...layer_embedded
03-21-2011, 07:52 PM
#535
03-22-2011, 02:56 AM
#537
Yellow RX8
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Campbell, California
Posts: 870
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
03-22-2011, 07:33 AM
#538
03-30-2011, 12:23 AM
#540
Registered User
holy crap took me like 4 hours to read this whole thread, nyc badass job on the diy, I have enough confidence to actually attempt this now, gonna do it friday, and i'll do a video of the whole process from start to finish..
03-30-2011, 01:19 AM
#543
Registered User
lol yeah, cant sleep right now, had some smoke breaks in between, posted on some threads, just added the wife to the wives section, and now im just a post *****..lol can't sleep grrrr
04-03-2011, 04:53 AM
#545
Registered
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I bought a used RX8 engine and i tried the power of zoom cleaner out
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wRHdqHXlcKs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FEN1B6dBI5Y
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wRHdqHXlcKs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FEN1B6dBI5Y
04-03-2011, 10:30 AM
#546
05 RX8 Sold///05 Evo VIII
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: New Berlin, WI
Posts: 457
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ATF (Automatic transmission fluid) Works good to loosen sticky apex seals and lubricate everything.
I've personally seen my buddy do this to 3 junkyard 12As and one 13B and it worked every time.
I've personally seen my buddy do this to 3 junkyard 12As and one 13B and it worked every time.
04-04-2011, 08:18 AM
#547
I bought a used RX8 engine and i tried the power of zoom cleaner out
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wRHdqHXlcKs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FEN1B6dBI5Y
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wRHdqHXlcKs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FEN1B6dBI5Y
04-07-2011, 10:41 PM
#548
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Did my second seafoam treatment. Last one was done in September... still a lot of smoke not nearly as much as the first one.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=giP1K6nF8JY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=giP1K6nF8JY
Last edited by EpicLulz; 04-07-2011 at 10:49 PM.
04-08-2011, 07:06 AM
#549
Seafomed the car last night. I unplugged the air pump and pulled out fuel pump and injector fuse. that worked fine.
Car pulls stronger in the midrange and up top. I going to finish it off today by steam cleaning with gallon of distilled water using same ports with engine running at 3000 rpm.
here are the instructions:
WATER INJECTION TREATMENT FOR ALL ROTARY ENGINES
When talking about rotary engines, carbon buildup is a common problem brought up. I have a writeup elsewhere in the tech section of internal engine damage pics, showing the effects of carbon buildup. A good way to combat this harmful effect is to inject water into a running engine as a matter of maintenance (note that I am not referring to water injection as a method to assist tuning and combat detonation, but rather as a maintenance procedure). By allowing an idling engine to injest a small amount of water, it hits the rotor faces and turns to steam, cleaning off carbon as it does. The more regularly you perform the maintenance, the cleaner your engine will remain. The procedure (I believe) was originally brought to light by Rob @ Pineapple racing, so please note that I’m not trying to take credit for this, only spreading the information for use by individuals.
Note that this should in no way harm an engine in good health. Water doesn’t combust, but it doesn’t harm any internals or sensors such as plugs or 02 sensors either. The engine will misfire and stumble during the time water is injected, this is normal. You will have to apply throttle to keep the engine above 3000rpm during the injection.
To perform this, I use a gallon jug of water and a long vacuum hose, say 3 feet. Though this is different for nearly every year and model, the underlying goal is to find 1 or 2 vacuum nipples on the intake manifolds after throttle body, preferably on the lower intake manifold so that the water can run straight down into the block. You want to feed both front and rear rotors evenly…generally you have 4 intake runners, 2 for the front, 2 for the back. Some engines have one nipple that can feed both (s4 turbos, for example, have one above the BAC valve that is evenly split between F and R primary runners). Some engines (fd’s and s5 na’s for example) have 2 separate nipples that can be teed together externally (vacuum hose and tee) to evenly feed both rotors.
With the engine running, remove the vacuum cap or lines that used to cover the nipple you’re using. You might have to apply throttle, so the engine doesn’t die due to a vacuum leak. Insert your hose(s) onto the nipples, and bend the hose somewhere in the middle by hand so that it seals off the air intake. Now, dip the end of the hose into the water at the bottom of the jug. Either grab the throttle linkage and rev the engine up, or have an assistant hold the throttle for you, above 3500 or so. Release your crimp on the hose, letting the engine vacuum suck water in. The engine will begin to shake and misfire, apply throttle as necessary to hold 3-4krpm and keep the engine from dying.
Expect a lot of steam from the exhaust. This is normal. I let the engine drink the whole gallon at once. When it’s done, it’ll begin to clear up slowly, and you can gradually let off the throttle and replace the original vacuum hoses/caps.
Car pulls stronger in the midrange and up top. I going to finish it off today by steam cleaning with gallon of distilled water using same ports with engine running at 3000 rpm.
here are the instructions:
WATER INJECTION TREATMENT FOR ALL ROTARY ENGINES
When talking about rotary engines, carbon buildup is a common problem brought up. I have a writeup elsewhere in the tech section of internal engine damage pics, showing the effects of carbon buildup. A good way to combat this harmful effect is to inject water into a running engine as a matter of maintenance (note that I am not referring to water injection as a method to assist tuning and combat detonation, but rather as a maintenance procedure). By allowing an idling engine to injest a small amount of water, it hits the rotor faces and turns to steam, cleaning off carbon as it does. The more regularly you perform the maintenance, the cleaner your engine will remain. The procedure (I believe) was originally brought to light by Rob @ Pineapple racing, so please note that I’m not trying to take credit for this, only spreading the information for use by individuals.
Note that this should in no way harm an engine in good health. Water doesn’t combust, but it doesn’t harm any internals or sensors such as plugs or 02 sensors either. The engine will misfire and stumble during the time water is injected, this is normal. You will have to apply throttle to keep the engine above 3000rpm during the injection.
To perform this, I use a gallon jug of water and a long vacuum hose, say 3 feet. Though this is different for nearly every year and model, the underlying goal is to find 1 or 2 vacuum nipples on the intake manifolds after throttle body, preferably on the lower intake manifold so that the water can run straight down into the block. You want to feed both front and rear rotors evenly…generally you have 4 intake runners, 2 for the front, 2 for the back. Some engines have one nipple that can feed both (s4 turbos, for example, have one above the BAC valve that is evenly split between F and R primary runners). Some engines (fd’s and s5 na’s for example) have 2 separate nipples that can be teed together externally (vacuum hose and tee) to evenly feed both rotors.
With the engine running, remove the vacuum cap or lines that used to cover the nipple you’re using. You might have to apply throttle, so the engine doesn’t die due to a vacuum leak. Insert your hose(s) onto the nipples, and bend the hose somewhere in the middle by hand so that it seals off the air intake. Now, dip the end of the hose into the water at the bottom of the jug. Either grab the throttle linkage and rev the engine up, or have an assistant hold the throttle for you, above 3500 or so. Release your crimp on the hose, letting the engine vacuum suck water in. The engine will begin to shake and misfire, apply throttle as necessary to hold 3-4krpm and keep the engine from dying.
Expect a lot of steam from the exhaust. This is normal. I let the engine drink the whole gallon at once. When it’s done, it’ll begin to clear up slowly, and you can gradually let off the throttle and replace the original vacuum hoses/caps.
