DIY: Mazda Zoom Power Engine Cleaner (Engine Cleaning, Seaform)
#726
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Distilled water is usually 89 or 99 cents a gallon at the grocery store. Just suck down the whole gallon with the car running. Like this:
You need to do an oil change afterwards, so you may want to only do this right before a normal scheduled oil change.
Here is another video of my complete setup. This one was using windshield washer fluid (water/meth) as one of the chemicals to test, but it did perform well. Use distilled water the same way.
That first T connector is important, as you do NOT want solid water in that line. That T allows the engine to suck in water and air into the line, which then foams up for a better mix.
So I did my decarb today. Managed to get both rotors at the same time using the the T line setup from the S2 (from the oil neck to T fitting to LIM service nipples). Got a whole gallon through. No smoking which is good (you shouldn't smoke if you are doing water i read). Going to do an oil change tomorrow.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.n...91903645_n.jpg
https://scontent-a-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/...26408698_n.jpg
https://scontent-a-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/...65304607_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.n...91903645_n.jpg
https://scontent-a-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/...26408698_n.jpg
https://scontent-a-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/...65304607_n.jpg
You need to do an oil change afterwards, so you may want to only do this right before a normal scheduled oil change.
Here is another video of my complete setup. This one was using windshield washer fluid (water/meth) as one of the chemicals to test, but it did perform well. Use distilled water the same way.
That first T connector is important, as you do NOT want solid water in that line. That T allows the engine to suck in water and air into the line, which then foams up for a better mix.
Last edited by RIWWP; 04-07-2014 at 10:15 AM.
#727
Silent but deadly
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Sorry in advanced if I sound redundant and ask a question you clearly already explained. I see the set up but am not 100% clear on how it all goes together since I only used a simple 1 hose system to go to each nipple at a time. I see that your using a splitter to put the water in both nipples at the same time and then it goes to the distilled water. Is that correct? Then there is another T line where you also are ingesting air into the mix.
Also do you have any idea why my engine isn't sucking up the mixture when I tried decarbing yesterday? This is my third time doing it since I've had the car.
Thanks for pointing out not to do the distilled water decarb before I am ready for an oil change. I would have been in big trouble if I didn't know that.
Attached is a look inside one of my rotor housings. My 8 is only at 65k miles 2005. Not sure if it should look that bad at only 65k miles or not.
Also do you have any idea why my engine isn't sucking up the mixture when I tried decarbing yesterday? This is my third time doing it since I've had the car.
Thanks for pointing out not to do the distilled water decarb before I am ready for an oil change. I would have been in big trouble if I didn't know that.
Attached is a look inside one of my rotor housings. My 8 is only at 65k miles 2005. Not sure if it should look that bad at only 65k miles or not.
#728
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In order to move liquid, there has to be a pressure difference. Basically, the ambient air pressure has to exceed the engine low pressure (vacuum) enough to lift the fluid through the hose. All sorts of things could mean a lower vacuum in the LIM, or a lower air pressure, or too much weight for the pressure difference to overcome.
Yes, the contraption has 2 T fittings in it. One end has equal length 'feet', one for each LIM service port. The other end has one longer for the liquid (needs to get to the bottom of the container), and one shorter to just pick up some air to mix in. The length between them should be 4+ feet, enough to allow you to sit the gallon of water in your passenger seat while you keep the engine between 1,500-2,500rpm. The engine WILL stall if you try to let it idle, so you need to stay on the throttle to keep the revs up a bit. Too high up and the ECU will interrupt the throttle input after a few seconds, and will drop the engine to idle. It was idling fine in my video because of the fuel content in the water/meth (methanol).
Yes, the contraption has 2 T fittings in it. One end has equal length 'feet', one for each LIM service port. The other end has one longer for the liquid (needs to get to the bottom of the container), and one shorter to just pick up some air to mix in. The length between them should be 4+ feet, enough to allow you to sit the gallon of water in your passenger seat while you keep the engine between 1,500-2,500rpm. The engine WILL stall if you try to let it idle, so you need to stay on the throttle to keep the revs up a bit. Too high up and the ECU will interrupt the throttle input after a few seconds, and will drop the engine to idle. It was idling fine in my video because of the fuel content in the water/meth (methanol).
#730
Hi everyone,
I have a ’06 with 60K on it. I had the engine replaced at 40K. So, it has now 20K miles on it. I have the impression that I need a decarb. The car is not as quick as day 1, but this is not THE ‘loss of power’ symptom either. Everything is working fine, I have a new cat, new coils and I done the SSV cleanup recently.
The problem is with the new engine, I have two vacuum lines that start from the nipples and goes to a ‘T’ and to the oil filler. I am wondering if I can simply put the seafoam from that vaccum line and do both rotors at the time. Furthermore, can I use that vaccum line to have oil suck into the manifold when I start the engine after it sit for 1 hour? Do I have to use 2 cycle oil or just normal engine oil?
Pardon me if those questions sound stupid, but I never did a decarb in the past.
I have a ’06 with 60K on it. I had the engine replaced at 40K. So, it has now 20K miles on it. I have the impression that I need a decarb. The car is not as quick as day 1, but this is not THE ‘loss of power’ symptom either. Everything is working fine, I have a new cat, new coils and I done the SSV cleanup recently.
The problem is with the new engine, I have two vacuum lines that start from the nipples and goes to a ‘T’ and to the oil filler. I am wondering if I can simply put the seafoam from that vaccum line and do both rotors at the time. Furthermore, can I use that vaccum line to have oil suck into the manifold when I start the engine after it sit for 1 hour? Do I have to use 2 cycle oil or just normal engine oil?
Pardon me if those questions sound stupid, but I never did a decarb in the past.
#733
#737
the de-carb stuff is not electronics friendly and hope that idiot (there are a lot of smartasses out there really) didn't **** anything else up. oh but when things go bad it's always the car's fault not the stupid owner, right ?
it's easier if you can go under the car, but I always take EPS plug off on top of the car.
#738
Hi everyone,
I have a ’06 with 60K on it. I had the engine replaced at 40K. So, it has now 20K miles on it. I have the impression that I need a decarb. The car is not as quick as day 1, but this is not THE ‘loss of power’ symptom either. Everything is working fine, I have a new cat, new coils and I done the SSV cleanup recently.
The problem is with the new engine, I have two vacuum lines that start from the nipples and goes to a ‘T’ and to the oil filler. I am wondering if I can simply put the seafoam from that vaccum line and do both rotors at the time. Furthermore, can I use that vaccum line to have oil suck into the manifold when I start the engine after it sit for 1 hour? Do I have to use 2 cycle oil or just normal engine oil?
Pardon me if those questions sound stupid, but I never did a decarb in the past.
I have a ’06 with 60K on it. I had the engine replaced at 40K. So, it has now 20K miles on it. I have the impression that I need a decarb. The car is not as quick as day 1, but this is not THE ‘loss of power’ symptom either. Everything is working fine, I have a new cat, new coils and I done the SSV cleanup recently.
The problem is with the new engine, I have two vacuum lines that start from the nipples and goes to a ‘T’ and to the oil filler. I am wondering if I can simply put the seafoam from that vaccum line and do both rotors at the time. Furthermore, can I use that vaccum line to have oil suck into the manifold when I start the engine after it sit for 1 hour? Do I have to use 2 cycle oil or just normal engine oil?
Pardon me if those questions sound stupid, but I never did a decarb in the past.
I have an '04 that received a reman engine. The newer engine also has this T from the nipples that goes to the oil filler. Is there any safe way to decarb this engine?
#739
#740
#742
Grey Boy
Anyone know why Mazda discontinued the zoom zoom clean.
My engine has 114k and compression has dropped to 5. across both rotors. before dropping the cash for a remanufactured core I'd like to try this,, if I can get a can.
My engine has 114k and compression has dropped to 5. across both rotors. before dropping the cash for a remanufactured core I'd like to try this,, if I can get a can.
#743
Administrator
iTrader: (7)
just use some Seafoam.
#744
Grey Boy
#746
Hey guys. can I use this instead of mazda zoom zoom or seafoam since I cannot find them both in pakistan.
https://www.amazon.de/LM-5111-Pro-Li.../dp/B00295D7T0
Also Will i need to soak up quarter cup oil into each nipple after im done pushing in the spray ?
Sorry for resurrecting the thread but This thread got me hooked i read like 70% of the replies.
https://www.amazon.de/LM-5111-Pro-Li.../dp/B00295D7T0
Also Will i need to soak up quarter cup oil into each nipple after im done pushing in the spray ?
Sorry for resurrecting the thread but This thread got me hooked i read like 70% of the replies.
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