DIY: Installing Series II Fuel Pump in Series I - Page 4 - RX8Club.com



Series I Do It Yourself Forum Wanna save some coin or time/money in the shop? Read up on Do-It-Yourself custom mods and repairs & post your own here.

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Old 05-04-2015, 07:47 PM   #76
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PartsGroup ismostly Miata only now, though they may have some misc leftover stuff. You will have to call and ask. No current RX8 info on their website any more
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Old 05-25-2015, 08:12 PM   #77
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Originally Posted by Brettus View Post
Where can you get hold of an s2 assy these days ... I can't seem to find it available anywhere (except Mazda). Mazmart have stopped stocking them .
Just got it from Mazmart. They sourced it from the West Coast , the S2 pump and assembly. Just had it put in my Series 1, 40th AE RX8. Jim of JPR Imports in southern New Jersey did the install with the pin connector and submersible fuel line mod. He said it was no sweat and is available to do the swap for any RX8 owners in the NJ,Pa.,Del., Md. and NY areas. I didn't have the tools and time to do it myself, but Jim is reasonable and a longtime Master rotary wrench.
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Old 10-06-2015, 08:17 PM   #78
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hi guys, I'm trying to attempt this (at first) with a flat head and hammer. But I'm not sure with the 2 lock tab around the ring. How do you unlock them? Do you push/slide them up or do people break them off? Thanks
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Old 10-06-2015, 08:47 PM   #79
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I just broke them off, or bent them out of the way.
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Old 10-18-2015, 12:48 PM   #80
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FL

hello everyone, does anyone know how to replace this green O ring seal the easy way? It has been very tricky for hours now. The tools I'm using: pin and tweezers. My issue is that this line is leaking gas from the connector to the fuel pump, so my first plan is to replace this O ring seal. If that doesn't work I will replace the whole fuel line. As for the fuel line does anyone know the part #? Thanks
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DIY: Installing Series II Fuel Pump in Series I-20151018_122013.jpg   DIY: Installing Series II Fuel Pump in Series I-20151018_122128.jpg  

Last edited by bmannie5851; 10-18-2015 at 01:06 PM.
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Old 10-18-2015, 01:52 PM   #81
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Maybe an angled mechanics pick to fish out the O ring. Those connectors suck the one on top of the pump I just cut off and replaced with 5/16 submersible fuel line and worm drive clamps. Holds perfectly.
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Old 10-18-2015, 02:11 PM   #82
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@GK1707. wow that is so innovative, thanks for the response.

Last edited by bmannie5851; 10-18-2015 at 04:36 PM.
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Old 11-22-2015, 08:16 PM   #83
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Hello, My only leak :( help

Has anyone encounter this leak? it only leaks here, no where else. And I made sure the O-ring is pretty tight. Thanks
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Old 11-22-2015, 11:50 PM   #84
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Assembly not seating well; likely one of the hoses is right underneath the assembly. Take it out, make sure all hoses are routed properly and remember the plastic ring goes on tight (around 100 ft-lbs if I remember correctly).
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Old 04-21-2016, 10:45 AM   #85
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Greetings folks,

I believe this could be my 1st post. My '07 RX8's fuel pump started giving out so I went on here for some information. From what I understand, all I need is the S2 assembly, a bit of 5/16 hose and an adapter to connect the old S1 fuel tank hose to the new 5/16 hose.

I don't need the S2 fuel pump ring and rubber seal, I can just install this fuel pump on the stock plastic "O-ring", right?

Thanks in advance lads,
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Old 05-11-2016, 11:24 AM   #86
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Used this stuff in the past when working with old fuel door gaskets when i didn't want to put the crazy effort into torquing down the ring, only to take it off in a few months...

Quote:
Permatex® PermaShield™ Fuel Resistant Gasket Dressing & Flange Sealant Specially formulated for superior fluid resistance, this polyester urethane based gasketing compound withstands extreme temperature changes without hardening. Its non-setting, non-hardening character remains tacky even with rapid changes in temperature, enabling repeated assembly and disassembly of parts. Suitable as either a gasket maker or dressing, PermaShield™ seals surface imperfections between metal parts and is ideal in high performance applications...



US Part Number: 85420
Canada Part Number: 85420
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Old 08-12-2016, 08:20 PM   #87
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I just did this and I bought the following:

1- 2 pack of 3/8 (steel) to 5/16 (nylon) 90* quick dissconnect elbows. $8 and no jimmy rigging whatsoever.....

Any car parts store should have these. Supprisingly, I got mine from NAPA. Both lines are 5/16 and both nipples on the pump are 3/8. I do not like reusing the old fitting on top. But thats just me. I modified the old fuel level sensor plug as described in the OP.

Very simple. That is if you buy a fuel pump lock ring tool...
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Old 08-17-2017, 01:10 AM   #88
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Just confirming that the level float connector on the RH side of the S2 fuel tank is the same connector as on the LH side that is needed to connect to the inner top side of the S2 fuel pump. I may try to get some PNP adapter harnesses made.
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Old 08-17-2017, 01:30 AM   #89
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Also cross-referencing info on the S2 pump in the link below including flow/pressure testing and aftermarket pump type (different type than the S1 pump)

https://www.rx8club.com/series-ii-af...thread-261755/
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Old 08-21-2017, 05:04 AM   #90
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Quote:
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I may try to get some PNP adapter harnesses made.
I could take a dozen or more of those for the rx8 race cars I work with . How soon could you get something together ?
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Old 08-22-2017, 03:09 AM   #91
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It's just an idea, but may not be feasible. I just spent an hour looking through various catalogs and didn't find that connector. The one company I know of that could find it for sure seems to have jacked up their prices through the roof for some reason; $75 USD just for one connector! And we'd need two connectors for a PnP harness. WTF?!? I doubt anyone will pay that rather than modify and swap a used one.

Alternatively, they could swap in the S2 fuel level float sensor from an S2 to make it PnP with no mods. That's not so cheap either; $160 USD MSRP
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Old 11-12-2017, 02:57 PM   #92
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Ok, finally did this last night. Kind of a pita. I bought the Dorman nylon fuel line tool kit to install the larger 5/16” barb x 3/8” steel connector elbow on the siphon hose. That might seem like an expensive way to do it, but I had already decided to also do all my engine bay fuel line mods using nylon and QD connectors similar to OE because it’s just so lightweight. The Dorman connectors are better than the OE ones imo.

For turbo/larger engine swaps you can actually run 3/8” nylon fuel line from the fuel tank to the engine bay in place of the factory 5/16” steel line. This is actually a common mod for aftermarket fuel lines now. To make bends you buy the slideover flexible spring that has an ID that matches the tube OD and while wearing leather gloves you heat it up with a heat gun, make the bend and hold it until it cools, then slide the spring bender off. The spring bender keeps the tubing round and prevents it from collapsing while soft from the heating process.

If you want the arrow on the top of the fuel pump housing to point in the correct forward position then you can replace the 90* elbow on the pump discharge fuel line to a straight 5/16” barb x 3/8” steel connector, but I just rotated the pump housing about 95* CW or so to line up the factory elbow for now just like everyone else.

Also, I did use the S2 float level wiring connector from the passenger side float and it’s the same as the driver side connector that plugs into the pump module. So there are two useable wiring connectors per S2 fuel tank. You don’t just need the one on the pump side because both sides are the same. The wiring pins are the same inside both the S1 and S2 connectors too. De-pinning and swapping the connectors is as easy as it gets. Not sure why some people thought it was a loose fit etc. earlier in the thread? I concluded that an adapter harness doesn’t really make any sense. So I took pictures of all the connector sides and am going to try and find a source for just the connector only instead.

In retrospect I should have asked for the S2 siphon hose assembly and just installed that rather than mess around with swapping the connector elbow out on my S1 siphon tube.

However I did come across a situation that people should be aware of. I had pulled my S1 fuel float out of the tank to swap the connector and noticed that the insulation sheathing on both wires was abraded and torn through in several places like they were rubbing on the pump housing or something. If the exposed areas on the two wires had touched together it would have shorted out So I encased them both in heat-shrink tubing to take care of a problem that was just waiting to happen.
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DIY: Installing Series II Fuel Pump in Series I-94fe72bf-cb76-4c79-8780-b86397059220.jpeg   DIY: Installing Series II Fuel Pump in Series I-b4174f09-2960-4650-b440-162298371ef0.jpeg  

Last edited by TeamRX8; 11-12-2017 at 03:11 PM.
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