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Has anyone had any issues with the rear bolt being seized? I sheared the head off and I don't know how I'm going to remove it besides dropping the subframe. I can't drill it out because the subframe prohibits a straight shot to the bolt.
Hi guys, I hope everyone's new year is off to a good start!
I wanted to let you know we are currently in another production run of our stainless steel motor mounts mounts and for a limited time we are activating a $25 discount code for forum members. Simply use discount code "RX8Mounts" at checkout!
I have never seen any reference to this so I'm going to assume it hasn't been brought up before :after a few years of use, these mounts may drop the engine height !
I recently took my daughter to the airport . The car was loaded with 4 people and a full boot . As we were driving along I was horrified to find that every time i accelerated the whole car began to vibrate .
I decided I'd realign the PPF the old fashioned way ... IE actually set the gearbox and diff. at the same angle . Once I'd done that I remeasured the Mazda setting for the PPF and found it was a good 10mm below the lowest recommended setting .
Only conclusion I can draw from this is that the mounts lowered the engine position and therefore made the std. PPF setting redundant.
For others reading this for the last year or two these mounts ship with the ability to raise the engine 1/4 inch or to have it mounted at factory height whichever the end user prefers.
We currently have stainless units in stock ready to ship!
For others reading this for the last year or two these mounts ship with the ability to raise the engine 1/4 inch or to have it mounted at factory height whichever the end user prefers.
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I would be suggesting everyone add the 1/4" from the get go . I'm pretty sure you need that to get the same engine height as stock after the mounts have settled .
BTW : My issue only happened because I had removed engine and therefore had to set the PPF to MAZDA spec. on reassembly. As the mounts are lower than stock .... in so doing I effectively misaligned the engine and diff at that time. If you don't touch the PPF setting the alignment remains fine even if the mounts are lower .
I also have the older motor mounts and I had to remove my PPF. I reinstalled the PPF tightened up the bolts. Car seems to run fine however, I am getting 5th gear crunching at high RPM
Just finished installing a RB Header and RX8 Performance engine mounts for a friend, pretty happy with the ease of install. These are good looking mounts!
Just installed mine. No issues following the instructions here. Took the car for a spin and so far it felt exactly like stock, nice and solid. I do have a lot of chassis, transmission and diff braces so impact on nvh might be less noticeable.
Note: My stock mounts weren't really damaged but this seemed like a good upgrade.
Hey all, just got my motor mounts this weekend from RX8Performance and wanted to know where exactly the new 1/4" washer which lifts the motor should go. I am assuming between the large washer sitting on the mounts and the engine arm.
So it should go from bottom to top, mount, large washer, 1/4" motor lifting washer, engine arm, small washer, then nylon nut.
Also, after installing it this way, my passenger side mount nylon nut will actually bottom out on the threading on top which doesn't allow me to tighten it anymore. The mount still is able to spin at this point and can't be tightened any further. What should I do in this case? I feel like this isn't right... should I add another small washer on top so I can tighten the mount more?
Also, no matter how tight I secure the mount onto the motor before lowering it, I can't tighten it anymore once the motor mounts are lowered as the whole nut and bolt assembly just rotates... any suggestions on how to stop this from happening?
At first there quite a bit of vibration in low gear when starting off. but that smoothed out once traveling at mid to high speed. after a few hundred miles they have smoothed out at idle and when driving and are awesome. You can really feel the engine is connected to the car and the whole drive train feels so much more tighter. I feel I get better engine response when I step on the peddle. The only time I get any noticeably "Bad " vibrations in when Im in gear, sitting at idle or super low speeds and the AC is on , turn the AC off and it smooths out, step on the gas with AC on and zoom zoom and it stops. All in all solid poly is the way to go for better drive performance all around. Not only will they last longer but as stated, performance is really enhance all around. Now to wrap every thing in the engine with heat shielding to keep it as cool as possible and Im good to go! ( 2005 Ti gray, pretty stock save for a K&N cold air, Black Halo coils and wiring kit, slotted rotors,ceramic brakes, SS brake lines, Optima Red Top battery and Sprint Booster accelerator pedal pop on. All bolt on stuff that can come off when or IF I ever sell it (I'm original owner) )
So IMHO fully or partial poly mounts are the way to go. Good luck!
For anyone using these in a racing class requiring the engine to not be lowered you’ll need to add about 3/8” of thickness be it spacers etc. to have the engine at the same position as the OE engine mounts. The website says the OE engine position is maintained and this has been proven to not be true.
Okay, so shout at me. I'm reviving a zombie thread.
Just had polyurethane mounts fitted to my 2004 RX8 192 and genuinely cannot tell the difference. I'm not moaning or criticising. Just wondering if I have a completely numb backside or if others are as sensitive as the princess and the pea.
The mounts I got were remodelled OEM ones which were drilled out and filled as per the DIY thread kindly posted by another owner. They were only £85 and the seller also gave me £20 trade-in for my old ones which, although a touch rusty in one place on the surface, were in perfect condition. Anyone else notice a difference in the external rubber between the left and right mounts? My lef tone had a deeper centre.....
Anyway, had a new Exedy clutch 600 miles ago so got the garage to check it out at the same time as fitting the mounts.
The gearbox has a noticeable notchy feeling from 2nd into 3rd which made me think it was a mounts issue - the car is very, very original and 16 years old so I wouldn;t have been surprised if the mounts had sagged a little. I've done a mixture of motorway and bumpy country road driving today (only about 40 miles in total) and cannot tell the difference. No vibrations. No noise, other than the usual. No difference.
hey all, i feel like this may be a silly question but i have to embarrass myself and ask...
newer versions of these motor mounts come with an additional thick washer in the middle, can anyone advise on whether the thick washer goes above or below the engine mounts?
Just need the review after you drive around with them 
