shakeyourbrakes

iTrader: (4)

I just swapped mine out, finally.... I ended up buying an OEM for the drivers side, because the top bolt snapped off and I couldnt drill it out. The passenger side one I filled with the 60a compound, which ending up being really easy. Overall it wasnt a difficult job at all, I reached all the bolts from the wheel wells and didnt have an issue at all taking any of the bolts out with a small hand rachet and 14mm socket (besides the broken bolt). Getting them back in was a pain, you really have to wiggle them around and pry a little bit to get the one side over the bolt and the other in the bracket.

Overall changing these things is a must if you have the rattle, either with filling them or these updated mounts. I realize now that Ive been dealing with this vibration for probably 40k and just got used to it being pretty bad. Its literally a different car now... Thanks for the pics and writeup on this, rx8club saved me spending hundreds again

HiFlite999

iTrader: (2)

+1. The board should be substantial, like 2x4 at least. It's only picking up ~ 250 lbs. The disadvantage is the requirement to put yourself under the car do do it - jackstands, wheel chocks, and backup required!

(In December, a friend broke 2 vertebrae in his neck when his WRX fell off a lift - and he wasn't even under the car; it fell sideways. Safety first!)

HiFlite999

iTrader: (2)

I didn't have much trouble with alignment. Perhaps it's because I didn't unbolt both mounts at the same time. One side, I backed off the two fasteners to the frame about 3/4", fully unbolted the other side, then lifted. With the first new mount in place, I lowered the engine enough to engage the frame nut and bolt there, then released the original side and lifted. This limits the motion of the engine while being raised. YMMV.

shakeyourbrakes

iTrader: (4)

i did one side at a time, i guess that was my problem. I couldnt lift the engine up enough to get great clearance because one side was bolted in.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

[QUOTE=HiFlite999;4230046

Tranny mounts seem to be here, marked in red.[/QUOTE]

That is the front powerplant frame mount. it is a fixed beam that ties the tranny and the diff together into a solid unit. You dont need to worry about that joint

lastphaseofthis

what he said, about the tranny mounts. My jacking point of choice for most cars is the side of the oil pan+wood.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

That's how I've always done mine and never had an issue.

I am still looking for another pair of OE 6-spd engine mounts

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

same here and the enginet doesnt have to move very much. Its nice to have the proper equipment , but backyard monkey mechanics have to improvise.
Driving impression is a big positive--i have diy mounts but the end result would be the same. I did mine before these were on the market. Better shifting, better throttle response were very evident.
I would not hesitate to get better mounts.

Hey dan what header (RB's??)

Tamas

iTrader: (1)

So what's the verdict about these mounts?
Any increased vibration or harshness?

HiFlite999

iTrader: (2)

With only 250 miles on them so far, my impressions are positive. My stock mounts were in perfect condition, so there's no room for improvements in NVH. At idle and above 3k rpm it's fine, it's fine, with only a slight increase in vibration and maybe a very slight increase in noise. If you run it to 4k in 1st say, then let off the throttle and let it slow in gear to near-idle, there's a bit of vibration/shutter in between 2500 and 1500 rpm. It's also a bit less forgiving of poor clutch/throttle coordination while accelerating from a stop light which can induce a shutter, since there's little slop in the mounts to compensate for bad technique. The engine postion seems to be exactly the same as stock, which is important for me since there's very little clearance between hard engine bits and my GTSPEC shock tower brace. (Some have noted that the RaceRoots mounts raise the engine height.)

The most obvious plus is the vast reduction in side-to-side motion of the shifter under accel/decel! It changes the shifter from an analogue to near-digital device. I've as of yet had no chance to see how the firmer mounts translate into transitioning in and out of corners, but expect that to be improved too.

So far =

Crazy.8

im thinking yes, but does the tranny/motor have to be jacked up a little bit? or is it just easier that way but still possible without it. 20 minute DIY sounds more like 2 hours for me lol.

Crazy.8

If youre still looking for some and If I end up changing mine out ill send them to you for free, unless you would want new ones but my mounts only have 33k on them.

Just dont know how soon I would do this, it comes below my AFE SS and BHR ignition on my to do list cause i dont track/autox. Plus it would probably take some help from a friend that has all the necessary tools.

SayNoToPistons

iTrader: (8)

^ If Team falls through, I'd like to take those off of you if you don't mind. My motor mounts are gone and I plan on filling them with urethane, but can't afford the 7 day down time .

Crazy.8

i wouldnt mind as long as he wouldnt want them, but only problem is i dont know how soon i would do this

Nadrealista

SayNoToPistons once you replace yours can I have your busted mounts :-)?

SayNoToPistons

iTrader: (8)

Got a domino effect here . If it helps the community, sure why not!

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Yes, you have to raise the bracket between the mount and the engine enough to have enough clearance to lift the mount up and over the hold-down stud that secures it to the subframe.

If you come to DFW I will install them for you in exchange for your used mounts. LMK.

rotorfly

Followed the advise of others in the DIY and jacked the car - placed on jack stands - removed front wheels - removed 14 mm bolts and nut on each motor mount - used recommended transmission jack point with hydraulic floor jack & wood block to provide enough clearance for removal of old mounts.

The new mounts went in relatively easy (straight in on drivers-side but passenger side required a little coaxing to align upper bolt).

Would certainly recommend this to others as it was an easy DIY project of approximately one hour (taking my time and first motor mount job) or less.

There is a huge savings from ordering the parts online and eliminating the labor (had a couple of quotes for 200-300 for labor alone).

Even better was the resultant elimination of transmitted vibration....

Buttery smooth again.....

Nadrealista

can I have your busted mounts?

rotorfly

Sorry, but already gone....

jonj

Just ordered these at the end of last week. As soon as they get here they are going on, so another set of busted mounts will be available. The chassis has 136k on it but motor was replaced at 96k so I'm not sure how many miles are on the mounts that are currently installed.

Nadrealista

can I have dibs on those?

GTSimmo

I also ordered a set and will be giving away the old set long as you're willing to pay for the shipping. SoCal resident near Los Angeles can pick them up. 06 auto model with 27k miles. I'm pretty sure the passenger side mount leaked out since I am currently experiencing rough idling.

munki098

Hi great DIY; I installed the same mounts, just some things I discovered while doing this that you might want to take into consideration.

1. I found lifting from the very front of the oil pan with a long piece of wood between the jack felt sturdier.
2. You will probably have to loosen the 12mm bolt for the brake lines to get to the top bolt on the mount, (this really makes life easier.
3. You want some tough tools these things are on there pretty tight, along with a 14mm short AND long socket. The front nut has a lot of thread and is not reached by the regular 14mm length socket.
4. Do one at a time and lower it into place, then the other side, it's hard enough getting one side to slide in when you lower the engine. You don't want to strip the bolt or the mount.

These new mounts feel great!, no more rough idle or vibrations when A/C is on.
Thanks for a great DIY

jonj

Alright, just got mine installed. Took me about an hour and a half because I could not could the bolts on the original mounts loose. Once I got that, the rest took about 20 minutes.

Haven't drive the car yet but I know that my passenger side mount was shot.

I went to remove the passenger side mount once I lifted the motor and that top chunk fell right off.

Very easy install as long as you have the right tools. I'll share impressions tomorrow after I get home from work.