DIY: How to change your rear brake pads.
Yes, it's adjustable. You have to get underneath the handle, but the anchor point of the e-brake handle and the cable is threaded, and you can thread it tighter, looser, etc...
Keep in mind that you want to make sure that the brake pads are not touching the rotors when it's down when you have NEW pad thickness. If you aren't at new pad thickness, I'd recommend leaving it alone. Adjust it once you replace the pads for new ones. Don't want to adjust it now and have the e-brake permanently engaged when you put in new pads.
Keep in mind that you want to make sure that the brake pads are not touching the rotors when it's down when you have NEW pad thickness. If you aren't at new pad thickness, I'd recommend leaving it alone. Adjust it once you replace the pads for new ones. Don't want to adjust it now and have the e-brake permanently engaged when you put in new pads.
Great info! So what is the difference between adjusting the adjustable bolt underneath the handle and adjusting the cable threads? They do the same thing right?
I can always adjust it back when I put in new pads. I will turn the bolt until just before it drags?
I can always adjust it back when I put in new pads. I will turn the bolt until just before it drags?
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No, I really mean hot. Sprayed water on the rotor and it sizzled, steamed, and evaporated in half a sec. I can feel the heat just by standing next to the wheel.
His subjective statement of "EXTREMELY HOT" doesn't mean glowing red if the only sign it presented is based on the "burning smell". Did 'smurfy' here physically touch the rotors that caused him to have third degree burns? Because extreme(ly) hot objects will fry any tissue it comes in contact with. Did 'smurfy' here mention any visual inspection that the rotors are glowing RED, such as what other members have stated about "glowing cats"? It's just like 'smurfy' here going into a buffet restaurant and say that it smells "OBESE".
The problem here is that 'smurfy' here is so irrate and probably said: 'I had it up to here' and could be exaggerating anything of this problem. 'Smurfy', show "EXTREMELY HOT" or it never happened... 'ASH8', don't be too grumpy!!!
The problem here is that 'smurfy' here is so irrate and probably said: 'I had it up to here' and could be exaggerating anything of this problem. 'Smurfy', show "EXTREMELY HOT" or it never happened... 'ASH8', don't be too grumpy!!!
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From: Australia
The rears will normally be cooler than the fronts....so they definitely are dragging
If the pistons are not pushed back properly in the caliper, and the tabs aligned in the groove , and the parking brake cable correctly in the tab they will not work properly
Are both sides equally hot?
If the pistons are not pushed back properly in the caliper, and the tabs aligned in the groove , and the parking brake cable correctly in the tab they will not work properly
Are both sides equally hot?
Okay, mine wasn't remotely close to what yours did! Yeah, the dealer did something else when they changed your pads, both ASH8 and dannobre are right.
Last edited by Grace_Excel; Sep 16, 2012 at 12:50 AM.
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Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Plymouth, MA
Ofcoure, I'm an idiot and didnt look for any guides and just started myself. So I succesfully did my front brakes, get to the rears, and cant compress the piston.
Off to autozone for a caliper tool set!
Off to autozone for a caliper tool set!
Don't be too hard on yourself; none of us were born knowing this stuff. But case in point for reading a DIY prior to undertaking a job of this safety-criticality. On the upside, you'll be an ol' pro after this installation.
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Joined: Jul 2011
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From: FL
Rear caliper compression?
So I have the caliper compression kit to change pads on my 2004. Started twisting clockwise on the calpier piston with the insert that's grooved and my caliper boot started twisting too.
I was afraid I'd rip the boot so I stopped and tried putting reverse torque on the tool basically pushing the piston without twisting but I couldn't get it compressed enough!
The boot was supposed to move freely right? If it turns it will rip right? So why can't I compress the caliper? Is it really any different from most other calipers?
I was afraid I'd rip the boot so I stopped and tried putting reverse torque on the tool basically pushing the piston without twisting but I couldn't get it compressed enough!
The boot was supposed to move freely right? If it turns it will rip right? So why can't I compress the caliper? Is it really any different from most other calipers?
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RX8 & RX7 owner
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: So. California
^You cant just compress the caliper. Try turning it back left to straighten out the boot and then hold the boot slightly to keep it in place while you turn it right, its should only take a twist or so to put the caliper back in BUT only far enough to properly align the caliper piston with the pad to where it will slide into place as I said in the DIY. When I did mine they twisted a tad bit, but I dont know how much twist you are describing. Anyone else car to chime in?
1. It will rip, but you can move the dust seal yourself as you turn the piston clockwise just as ZumnRx8 had described.
2. Open the brake fluid reservoir, may help when you need to compress it.
If that doesn't work, follow this link: Disc Pad Replacement.
2. Open the brake fluid reservoir, may help when you need to compress it.
If that doesn't work, follow this link: Disc Pad Replacement.
Last edited by Grace_Excel; Nov 3, 2011 at 05:16 PM.
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Joined: Nov 2008
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From: San Antonio, TX
Too late! I already started on the wrong side and did not know about the special tool kit. Front pads went real easy w/C-clamp to push piston back. It did not work for the rear. I should have read this thread before I started! I am putting the one rear back so I can drive to Auto Zone to get the kit. PS.... 2006 and first pad change. All pads, so far, were worn by an even 70% and needed new ones. Rotors look good!
Too late! I already started on the wrong side and did not know about the special tool kit. Front pads went real easy w/C-clamp to push piston back. It did not work for the rear. I should have read this thread before I started! I am putting the one rear back so I can drive to Auto Zone to get the kit. PS.... 2006 and first pad change. All pads, so far, were worn by an even 70% and needed new ones. Rotors look good!
Could you check if your E-Brake lever is engaged and did you move the vehicle; if so, did you press and hold down the brake pedal before turning the engine off? Try to clean the area surrounding the piston well. I, too, had a problem turning the piston clockwise on my driver side. It felt seized but it took me more than 15 minutes before the piston turned when I changed mine for the first time. Furthermore, I was using a rubber mallet and large flat head screw driver and a 12 inch C-Clamp helped turn the piston clockwise. I think that helped me a lot. You really have to apply some force if this is the first time it's being replaced.
You're likely on the right track, nevertheless, here's a link for you view so you don't feel you've missed something in the DIY. DISC PAD REPLACEMENT.
You're likely on the right track, nevertheless, here's a link for you view so you don't feel you've missed something in the DIY. DISC PAD REPLACEMENT.
If anyone who weren't able to put the shim with the new brake pads, you guys are probably doing something wrong. I didn't even have the proper tool (if you feel not confident enough, just purchase to proper tool) to turn the (rear caliper) piston(s) and I was still able to have at least a gap for my credit card between the new pads and the rotors, and that's with the shim!
Here's a very informative post you should also take time to read: BRAKE FAQ
Here's a very informative post you should also take time to read: BRAKE FAQ
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Joined: Mar 2006
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From: KNoxville, TN
Maybe a silly question but original poster (excellent DIY by the way and thank you) jacked both sides of car up at same time to work on the rear brakes. Is there a reason for that? Can you not just jack each side up when you are working on it? And then move to other side?
Maybe a silly question but original poster (excellent DIY by the way and thank you) jacked both sides of car up at same time to work on the rear brakes. Is there a reason for that? Can you not just jack each side up when you are working on it? And then move to other side?
I am going to be changing my pads soon as well and just had a quick question. I have goodridge SS lines installed. Do I need to do anything special since these lines flex less when I raise my caliper? Would hate to damage one.
