Hi just wanted to know if these wheels and tires will fit on my rx8 ?

http://www.readywheels.com/wheel-and-tire-packages.html

amy

 

I had to leave off my shims and have not had any brake noise or issues. If I do start hearing any, I can always pop them on at that time.

 

I just finished this on Sunday and it turned into a marathon. Every single bolt was siezed up tighter than a snare drum. I got em done though. I put anti sieze on the braket bolts so that they don't give me any trouble next time.

If I didn't have to work on every bolt for 30 minutes it would've been a walk in the park.

 

Sorry for the bump but my rear pads are pretty worn and planning on changing them soon. I have a few questions though. After the install, do you need to "bed" them ?? If so how ??

Also is there any anti squeal gel that needs to be applied ?? I know in Zumnrx8s DIY he didnt use any ??

Last thing, how do you know if your rotors need to be replaced ?? Someone said if you put your finger around the edge and if you feel a lip that they need to be replaced ??? Is that true cause all four of my rotors have that . I dont want to have to replace all 4.. its expensiveeeee..

Any help id really appreciate thanks.

 

yes you need to bed them. a easy way to do this: around a time of the day that there is little to no traffic in your neighborhood, slowly accelerate to ~25-35mph and then lightly press your brakes to gently slow down to a speed between 8-10. then you go back up to the 25-35mph area and repeat. do this at least ten times, more if youd like. to be on the safe side. the next day or two after just dont be hard on your brakes but drive normally. this will "bed" them so the brakes surface area meets the brake rotor evenly/flush.

i didnt use any anti-squeal. and i dont have any squealing.

if you feel a lip, you might need to. you could possibly get lucky and get your rotors resurfaced if they have enough life in them that you can do that. most places like your dealership or tire places will do it for anywhere between $150-$180 for a full brake job (per axle) that includes brake pads, resurfacing of the rotors, and installation. if you take them off yourself they might do them for $15-$25 per rotor if they have enough life to. With rates like that if they need to be resurfaced its cheaper and easier to just take it and let them do all the work with a full brake job. to keep the headache off of you. because knock on wood anything happens and its found that your brakes were at fault, most places warranty their work. just something to consider

 

I agree with all that Xero said and wanted to add some things.

If you do the brake job yourself, there are going to be some anti-rattle metal slips that come with your brakes. When I put my brakes on, I was unable to make enough room for the metal slips, so I had to leave them off. This has had no negative consequences for me so far (3k miles later). If the brakes ever start making sounds, I will throw them on at that point, but for now, don't worry bout them and just toss them in a baggy in your tool chest.

 

if they ever make a sound, then theres something wrong with the rotor, caliper, or the break pad, but under any circumstance, DO NOT add the shims, or shims of any kind later on. that will disturb the bedding alignment of the brake pad against the rotor and can cause serious damage.

play it safe. hear a noise? check it out. cant figure it out? take it to someone who can. its not worth your life.

 

If anyone who weren't able to put the shim with the new brake pads, you guys are probably doing something wrong. I didn't even have the proper tool to turn the piston and I was still able to have at least a gap for my credit card between the new pads and the rotors, and that's with the shim!

Here's a very informative post everyone should take time and read: BRAKE FAQ

 

OK I read through the whole thread. Got a few questions.

- I still don't get the "+" thing from the DIY. Does it has to be in certain 'angular' position to match up with the nipple? How do I know if it's inserted into the nipple?

- What's the torque on the main bolt?

 

Once the pads are installed and you "close" the caliper, you'll see why it needs to be aligned like that.

About 16-23 ft/lb

 

Ok thanks for the picture. That helped. I guess the nipple has to go to the end of the groove to get 'locked' in place. So either one of the two grooves would work? and the nipple is actually going to the end of the groove not exactly the vertical center of the cross right?

 

The "+" grooves are simply there to facilitate 'locking in' the head of the piston retraction tool and thereby the torque required to wind them back into their housings. As long as the tool head locks in, regardless of orientation, you're all set, and just wind in as far as it will go to provide the space needed for the new thicker pads.

Again, for the front pads you don't need a special tool, either a hefty slip joint pliers or a 'D' clamp will do.

 

Nice that answered the other question that I have. But I would think that those "+" grooves also serve as some kinda lock or guide for the nipple on the back of the pads right? It's dual purpose, for both retracting the piston and lining/locking the pads.

 

Thanks John & huey for answering questions

 

There's no "locking" of the pads themselves (not necessary and would make their removal more difficult). Again, the "+" grooves in the piston head are there for the retraction tool. The caliper is simply a hydraulic anvil-piston action squeezing the free floating pads against the rotor.

 

but why would us want to align the "+" to the nipple on the pad? (lol I can't stop asking..)

I did it the past weekend for the rear pads. It turned out the pads are almost brand new. I guess the noise I get is from the front.. Also whatever lubricant the previous owner used on the brake just stick the caliper and the shim together, made the job much harder.. The noise is still there. Maybe it's from the front. Gotta go lube the front another day..

 

The driver caliper piston side does not want to depress!!! Its really hard to turn clockwise, it really stiff! I've been going clockwise for 5 min and it does not go back. What am I doing wrong?

 

Could you check if your E-Brake lever is engaged and did you move the vehicle; if so, did you press and hold down the brake pedal before turning the engine off? Try to clean the area surrounding the piston well. I, too, had a problem turning the piston clockwise on my driver side. It felt seized but it took me more than 15 minutes before the piston turned when I changed mine for the first time. Furthermore, I was using a rubber mallet and large flat head screw driver and a 12 inch C-Clamp helped turn the piston clockwise. I think that helped me a lot. You really have to apply some force if this is the first time it's being replaced.

You're likely on the right track, nevertheless, here's a link for you view so you don't feel you've missed something in the DIY. DISC PAD REPLACEMENT.

 

I gave UP! Took it to the dealership and had them put on new brake pads on my rear driver side only. They also resurfaced the rotors free of charge. Now there a new problem, I left the dealership right after they close. I drove for a few miles and then I started to smell smoke. I pull over and noticed that the rotor were EXTREMLY HOT and smelled the burning brake pads. What the hell did they do? They seem to have put the bake pads on too tight, is that possible? HELP PLEASE!!! Its a bad day for me already.

 

Make sure your e-brake isn't partially engaged. They could have inadvertently installed duplicate shims I s'pose, otherwise no there's no "too tight" as the pads simply float in the channels. Perhaps they couldn't fully retract the piston either and jammed the pads in there? Pretty irresponsible if so, but at least you have a recourse.

 

It will do that, the pads have to bed-in, I also thought that I had to adjust my e-brake lever. But it will eventually settle after a few drives and a couple hundred miles.

 

It will do what??

It is not normal for your disc rotors to glow red when you leave a dealership at all...if that is what you are referring to

I agree with Huey...

And whoever worked on your car at the Dealership should be sacked..as it is Totally unacceptable, every brake job should be test driven.

Fecking Lawn Mower Mechanics!!!

 

His subjective statement of "EXTREMELY HOT" doesn't mean glowing red if the only sign it presented is based on the "burning smell". Did 'smurfy' here physically touch the rotors that caused him to have third degree burns? Because extreme(ly) hot objects will fry any tissue it comes in contact with. Did 'smurfy' here mention any visual inspection that the rotors are glowing RED, such as what other members have stated about "glowing cats"? It's just like 'smurfy' here going into a buffet restaurant and say that it smells "OBESE".

The problem here is that 'smurfy' here is so irrate and probably said: 'I had it up to here' and could be exaggerating anything of this problem. 'Smurfy', show "EXTREMELY HOT" or it never happened... 'ASH8', don't be too grumpy!!!

 

YEAH, sorry about that....I don't know where I got the "glowing red" bit from...must have been and early morning "senior" moment..

 

so...a dumb question...is our e-brake adjustable?

I meant my brake pads are fine, but my e brake is weaker than my like. In fact there was once I didn't pull it hard enough so it rolled in the parking lot lol it was actually funny now I think about it. Anyway on the other car of mine I couldn't figure out a way to get my e-brake stronger, so I don't know if the rx8 is the same.