mooboy

Ok I will see how it goes. The plugs aren't particularly old, I had them changed under warranty along with a faulty injector. (My car was in limp mode and they replaced those couple of items and it was fine)

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

May not be bad to remove the plugs and give them a good scrub with a wire brush.
But I wouldn't fear if you can't do it right away.

rotarygod

This should **** off all of you RX-8 guys. I can get in my 2nd gen RX-7, start the car, regardless of how cold it is, shut it off again immediately and then have it start right back up again. It doesn't have to warm up. It'll start every single time!!!

Now that I've said that, I'll probably go outside to find it flooded!

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Silence! I flood you!

teknics

just use atf.

kevin.

RX8Carnage

Did an oil change today now car wont start.
I noticed my canister on the k&n intake I installed was broken and hanging by the hose.
Culd this be the problem and anyone know where i can get one. and what it does.
The hose to manifold i believe is cut and hanging there.
http://www.kandn.com/instructions/69-6030-1_inst.pdf
Step 5
Please help I dont want dealership to be asses.

teknics

are you talking about the little vac hose that runs to the right and under the throttle body? maybe you can point out which number in those kandn instructions youre referring to i cant really picture it.

kevin.

z10

I just checked my 79 RX7 to see what the recommended fluid for the "Sub Zero Assist" was. The labe says 90% antifreeze and 10% water. In the 79 RX7 their is a seperate resivoir for the starting fluid. It has a small electric pump in the bottom and on top is a round metal push button to start the motor. I'll have to read the manual to see what it says about how long you need to depress this button.

If you can find a first gen RX7 I'll bet you can pick this up on the cheap and plumb it in.

OH, my daughter just moved her RX8 over one parking spot in cold weather and now she is surprised it won't start. Now I get to drive 150 mile to work in the parking lot of her college dorm, and try this DIY.

I'll report back how it works.

teknics

DO NOT USE THE OLD RX7 COLD START ASSIST.

mazda pulled that out of those cars eventually. it was no help and simply smoked out the neighborhood.

still no idea why they thought antifreeze into the motor was a good idea.

kevin.

StealthTL

iTrader: (1)

Just go with what a different cars manual says, from thirty years ago......

Yes, fine idea. What could possibly go wrong with that?

(I had a 1982 diesel Mercedes that had glowplugs - maybe we should try those?)

S

z10

Good point, but I would not dismiss the idea just because it's 30 years old. Many on this forum will dump oil, ATF, SeaFoam, washer fluid, etc. Why not an antifreeze mix?

I did try the washer fluid proceedure today. After 5 try's the engine seam to want to fire occasionally, but it never did. Called the tow truck and had it dropped off at the dealership. While I was there I had a chance to speak to one of their mechanics and asked him what he would do if he were in my position in the future. He said, tow the car at 20mph, turn the ignition switch on put the car in 2nd and drop the clutch. I than asked if that's what he was going to do with my car. He said yes. I asked if he could do it now and he said he would. 10 minutes later the car was back in the bay running on it's own power and had been washed. No smoke just a well running RX8. He shock my hand and would not accept any payment. If any of you are ever in Lubbock, TX I would highly reccomend Mears Mazda.

So in the future, I will try this proceedure first. Only problem is I'll have to find a helper in a pinch. For those of you that have gotten the washer fluid trick to work give it a try, it does not seem to have adversly seemed to have harme my car.

Cheers,

Z10
Former RX2 & Cosmo owner
Current 79 RX7, RX8 & 69 Z10 Camaro Pace Coupe.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

It usually does take a couple good cranks, but once you see the RPMs start to go above 1K, you need to give it slight gas for a few seconds or else it'll likely stall again.

teknics

wow, that kind of drivetrain shock is never "good" seems to me he was just too lazy to do it properly, at least the way you're supposed too at a dealer.

kevin.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Well, I wouldn't tow a car at 20 mph then just drop the clutch down to start it.

I will just ask a few friends to push start it for me, get it up to a few mph, then just do it slowly with clutch and gas. It works just as fine, and it will not cause much "unnecessarily" damage to the car.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

I think slipping the clutch would work better, and possibly a different gear? I know, it wasn't a rotory, but I actually coast-started one of my first cars in 5th gear at ~2mph. The higher the gear, the lower the RPM needed for the same speed to spin the engine.

Any reason 2nd gear is suggested? I get that 2n is easier than 1st, but why not 3rd, 4th, 5th, or 6th?

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

When you are driving normally between 5-10MPH you are in 2nd gear.
That is my take on it.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

This isn't rocket science I started a RX-8 last weekend with 10-10-60 compression on one rotor......and drove it 30 miles on one rotor

It started and ran within about 40 feet.......

Tow the car slowly...let out the clutch to rotate the motor......and wait till it starts.....give it gas til it runs smoothly...and you are good to go

teknics

i've started and driven flooded blown rotaries doing nothing but turning the key, using a jumppack, and manipulating the gas pedal. and then driven them around the shop sometime on the highway and then into my bay.

im not a fan of push starting but if you can coast down a hill i guess it is easier.

kevin.

Seleya

Just wanted to say thank you... This worked!!!!! My husband told me that if I couldn't get my car to run I would have to sell it, he HATES the rotary..... I love my car...... thank you for posting this. Seleya

4motionTT

My mom thought it would be ok to cold start the car and instantly shut it down...... :'(

i did this but it didnt work, dealership wants 100, i took out the plugs and cleaned them....still no dice, so i took them out again, cleaned again (holy jesus they got gunky fast again)....
So this time i left them out and cranked the car (super good compression blew out a plethora of gas out the compression chamber via spark plug holes)(left gasoline/carbon stains on cement get degeaser quick!).........letting it air out for today incase there is still gas film on the housing, will install plugs in the morning and see if it starts.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Normally before I do the washer fluid trick, I'll perform the Mazda deflood by pressing in the accelerator pedal while cranking (to remove excessive fuel).
After that I then perform the washer fluid trick.
Might be the difference as to why some can get it to work while others can't

4motionTT

put it back together...........no dice, car still wont start and dealer cant service until monday, i hate waiting for my car to work

zorro3201

This worked for me:

1- connect battery via jumper cables to a running car
(or you will kill your battery too fast)

2- press accelerator down all the way
(supposedly allows more air in that fuel and will clear out the chamber)

3- crank it and listen for the sputter, at least 10 seconds
(after 10 seconds you may burn out your starter)

4- when sputter stops and if car has not started wait 5 to 10 seconds
(when sputter stops its because the extra fuel has been pumped out of the engine)

5- try starting normally DO NOT PRESS ACCELERATOR at least 10 seconds
(will pump fuel back in.)

--if it hasnt started do steps 2 through 5 again
(On the third try mine started)

6- Once started rev to approx 2500 rpm and hold there until warm.

Mine started rough but in 10 seconds or so it ran like nothing ever happened.

DOMINION

K so my friend AJ battery went out on his CA 05 RX-8 and he flooded it.
After he got a new battery this is what I did *see attachments*
After you can retape the hose with elictrical tape.
-Gil

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Nice.
I'm doing basically the same thing, except mine will have a 'T' connection with a couple valves so I can control the flow between the washer nozzles and the maintenance ports.