SmuttyHutty

That all said, it isn't slipping at any point. There's instant application of power through the rev range and it stalls if you try to pull away without enough revs. It's just a flipping stiff push compared to my daily driver and my wife's car. I'm going to end up with a left leg like Popeye's.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Yeah, the engagement point moves lower and becomes stiffer as it wears out

the cheaper option is to just bleed it and skip the so-called “speed” bleeder

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SmuttyHutty

Just woke the car up from a month of sleep and taken it for a spin - I really ought to drive it more. First reflections are that the clutch might not be as stiff as I made out. It wasn't bad at all. I checked the clutch/brake fluid with a tester and it is 0% water and it is clean and clear. I've got a litre of replacement fluid but I think I'll hold fire on replacing it until I have it serviced just before the summer.

I only do 3-5k miles a year so it is not a heavily used car.

I did one trial today. Travelling along ar 3000 rpm in 4th gear I began to depress the clutch pedal and watch the revs. I guess it took me about 40-50% of maximum pedal travel to get the revs to increase. I was close to home and didn't have the chance to do this more than three or four times, but it was pretty consistent.

Any thoughts? I really don't think it is worth replacing the clutch until I *have* to, based on the few miles I do in it.

Steve Dallas

A properly driven clutch should last more than 100K miles. Testing it by slipping it will shave a lot of miles off that estimate, however.

Bleeding the system will not make make the pedal lighter. If anything, it will make it heavier. Did you buy the car used? Is there any chance a previous owner put a Stage 1, or God forbid, Stage 2 clutch in it? The stock clutch pedal is actually pretty light compared to most cars. Both of my BMWs have stock clutches and MUCH stiffer clutch pedals, for example.

Also, I don't know anyone who has been happy with Speed Bleeders. I never could get them to stop leaking and found a cheap vacuum pump made solo bleeding simple and reliable with the stock bleeders.

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SmuttyHutty

Hey Steve,

I got the card second hand in the summer and have put only 250 miles on it since then. It has been well cared for by the previous two owners - the first was a lady who had it main dealer serviced for the first 12 or 13 years of its life and the second owner was a car enthusiast and was really picky about things. I've got a file of invoices which I've been through but there is nothing about the clutch anywhere in there.

I've bought the speed bleeders for front and back brakes along with the clutch but am now in two minds. I've ordered a one-way valve bleeder (Eezibleed) and will use that and stick with the stock nipples - or just leave it. I haven't decided. The previous owner had it mechanically assessed before he bought it 2 years ago and the brakes all round have been fully checked and measured.

Like I said before, I won't do that many miles in it so I will wait for any major concerns. I'll use the car this week whilst it's dry then store it up for the winter.

There isn't a bleed nipple on the clutch master cylinder but there is one on the brake master which I guess covers both of them. I had a brief look over the top for the slave but couldn't see it this morning. I might venture underneath to find it this week....

cmaderia10

Does anyone have a specific write up on how to change brake fluid by using speed bleeders? Brakes, clutch slave cylinder, and master cylinder. I saw a video online Japanda Tuning, but it wasn't specific enough.

I would appreciate it. Thanks,

Chad

Qonjin

Anyone have a part number for replacement clutch bleeder screw?