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Put the wrench on the end of the bleeder valve, put a hose over the nipple, put the other end of the hose in a cup of brake fluid, open the valve, press and release the pedal 20 times or so. Close the valve, get back in press and release the pedal...it will get stiff.
Put the wrench on the end of the bleeder valve, put a hose over the nipple, put the other end of the hose in a cup of brake fluid, open the valve, press and release the pedal 20 times or so. Close the valve, get back in press and release the pedal...it will get stiff.
Follow these steps, you'll be successful in doing so :
1.
Step 1
Open your hood and locate the clutch slave cylinder. It is usually toward the front of the car, near the bumper.
2.
Step 2
Place a container underneath the slave cylinder.
3.
Step 3
Open the bleeder valve by unscrewing it slightly. The bleeder valve should be under the slave cylinder and distinguishable because of the rubber cap on its end. You will have to remove this cap when opening the valve.
4.
Step 4
Let the fluid drip out until it eventually pours out in a steady stream. Keep an eye on the clutch fluid level; do not let it dip below the minimum line. If it is gets low use new fluid to top it off.
5.
Step 5
Close the bleeder valve as soon as the fluid begins to pour out continuously and replace the rubber cap.
6.
Step 6
Slowly pump the clutch a few times. If after a few pumps the clutch feels normal, then you are finished. If the clutch still feels too soft, you will have to repeat the process.
7.
Step 7
Open your hood and locate the clutch slave cylinder. It is usually toward the front of the car, near the bumper.
Obviously... you've never done this...
This thread is full of too much misinformation.
The steps for bleeding the clutch is the same as the brakes.
1) Open the hood and locate the slave cylinder. Its in the back of the engine bay, basically behind the oil filter, on the transmission. Depending on your height you may need to lay on top of the engine instead of standing on the driver's side.
2) Have someone pump the clutch pedal a few times and have them hold the pedal down.
3) Insert a hose over the bleed screw and run the hose into a container
4) Open the bleed screw and allow the fluid to flow into the container.
5) The person in the car holding the pedal will notice the pedal dropping to the floor. Once the pedal hits the floor DO NOT lift up on the pedal until the bleed screw is closed.
6) The guy in the car should yell out once it hits the floor, you close the bleed screw, THEN he can lift up on the pedal.
7) Pump the clutch pedal a few more times and repeat until you no longer see air bubbles coming out of the line.
8) Watch the fluid level in the brake reservoir and fill when needed.
Follow these steps, you'll be successful in doing so :
1.
Step 1
Open your hood and locate the clutch slave cylinder. It is usually toward the front of the car, near the bumper.
2.
Step 2
Place a container underneath the slave cylinder.
3.
Step 3
Open the bleeder valve by unscrewing it slightly. The bleeder valve should be under the slave cylinder and distinguishable because of the rubber cap on its end. You will have to remove this cap when opening the valve.
4.
Step 4
Let the fluid drip out until it eventually pours out in a steady stream. Keep an eye on the clutch fluid level; do not let it dip below the minimum line. If it is gets low use new fluid to top it off.
5.
Step 5
Close the bleeder valve as soon as the fluid begins to pour out continuously and replace the rubber cap.
6.
Step 6
Slowly pump the clutch a few times. If after a few pumps the clutch feels normal, then you are finished. If the clutch still feels too soft, you will have to repeat the process.
7.
Step 7
Top off the clutch fluid in the reservoir.
Good Luck
+1 on the gravity bleed
though I'd add a step before everything:
siphon out most of the fluid from the clutch reservoir. then fill with fresh fluid.
Use a different color fluid if you can so you can make sure you've bled the whole system.
ATE super blue/gold is a good choice.
Originally Posted by Jon316G
Obviously... you've never done this...
This thread is full of too much misinformation.
I'll take your word for it. I don't remember what an rx8 engine bay looks like actually. I didn't even realize he said find the slave in the engine bay.
though I still think there's no need to pump the pedal. Gravity bleeding (especially for such short line) is fine for the clutch.
My procedure for gravity bleed:
1. open clutch reservoir, siphon out most of the fluid
2. fill with fresh fluid.
3. find bleeder on clutch slave and attach clear tubing that leads to a container to catch the liquid. (i usually just use whatever bottle is laying around with a hole drilled on top)
4. open bleeder. watch fluid drip out
5. keep an eye on the reservoir. Fill when it gets low
6. have a beer
7. when fluid changes to fresh, close valve.
8. remove tubing, top off reservoir.
Presto magic!
EDIT
k, after writing this, I think I remember the rx8 shares the clutch and brake reservoirs.
Same procedure should work though. Someone correct me if I'm wrong so I don't give wrong info out.
It's how I do it on my s2k though.
Gravity method will of course work (eventually), but again you're really better off with two people so you can be assured you achieve the proper pedal pressure (air removed)... or install a speedbleeder nipple.
You only need to bleed the clutch if you are having problems with it.
Even then it may not help.
The clutch and the brakes are in the same system so when you bleed the brakes you are also refreshing the hydraulic pressure on the clutch and the fluid.
If you get air in that clutch line you will regret it.
Ive bled both the brakes and clutch before but plan on flushing the system completely this spring. I'm estimating using like 2 quarts of brake fluid and I wanna do this completely by gravity bleed. Has anyone gravity bled and successfully flush the brakes and clutch? I dont like the idea of constantly pumping the pedals and releasing the bleeder valves as theres a chance of blowing the slave or master cylinders (again) from doing the pump method.
You only need to bleed the clutch if you are having problems with it.
Even then it may not help.
The clutch and the brakes are in the same system so when you bleed the brakes you are also refreshing the hydraulic pressure on the clutch and the fluid.
If you get air in that clutch line you will regret it.
I’m regretting it big time. I ended up having to disconnect to slave and air got into the system. Now I can’t build any pressure. Even when I use a vacuum. I feel like it’s not syphoning any fluid from the brake reservoir.
Could really use some help. Running out of time here.
If you just open the bleed screw it should mostly gravity-bleed itself without any pumping at all. You can pump after that to push clean fluid through and purge any last remaining bubbles.
I swapped out a clutch slave a week or two ago and bled it by myself without anything other than a clear hose and catch device. The clear hose lets you see what’s going on. Just run the hose from the bleed screw higher than the master and open the bleed screw. It can’t gravity bleed any higher than the master fluid level. After you have good column of fluid showing in the hose then if you have someone to help, you can do a closed-open routine between one person operating the bleed screw and the other person pushing & raising the pedal. Which during bleeding when the pedal is pushed down it stays down until pulled back up by hand. So you can do the same thing by yourself, but you have to go back and forth between operating the bleed screw in the engine bay and the pedal in the driver footwell. A bit of a hassle by yourself, but easily accomplished otherwise.
A pressure bleeder such as Motive etc. is probably the fastest way though. I never cared enough to buy one.
So the problem ended up being a bad master on the clutch, so we have fluid now and I put a speed bleeder on it. The problem is that the air bubbles won't stop. I checkerd all the connections in between and sprayed them down witrh soapy water. We even put a vaccum to it and pumped the peedel for over an hour. No pressure build and no straight fluid. New master and new slave...
The problem was partly my own doing. I assumed the concaved rod from the slave went into the concaved piston. When placing the slave on the fork it would hyperextend the piston on the slave leaking air. See photos. The other part was that I had a lot of air trapped in the new master cylinder. I used a device that forced pressure on the reservor that helped push it out. The pedal now has pressure and no bubbles but its only disengage and the very end of the stroke. I think a pedal adjustment will help, it's just a pain in the *** with the roll cage in the way but ill figure it out. @TeamRX8 youre starting to become my church confessional, as always thanks. Con caved piston Wrong direction Correct direction
Sorry, almost mentioned that. If you allow the system to either completely drain or replace the master then it’s critical to get the master completely bled of air. Otherwise as you experienced, you can’t effectively bleed the system if the master isn’t pushing fluid only fully through it.
glad you were able to finally work through it, working with either the clutch or brake hydraulics is one of my least favorite things. Outside of simple bleeding, I hate working with brake fluid.
Help!! How did you get the air out of the master cylinder.
Originally Posted by Stefan Wolf
The problem was partly my own doing. I assumed the concaved rod from the slave went into the concaved piston. When placing the slave on the fork it would hyperextend the piston on the slave leaking air. See photos. The other part was that I had a lot of air trapped in the new master cylinder. I used a device that forced pressure on the reservor that helped push it out. The pedal now has pressure and no bubbles but its only disengage and the very end of the stroke. I think a pedal adjustment will help, it's just a pain in the *** with the roll cage in the way but ill figure it out. @TeamRX8 youre starting to become my church confessional, as always thanks. Con caved piston Wrong direction Correct direction
I replaced the slave cylinder, master cylinder, and the petal. Now I can’t get pressure behind the petal. When I push the petal in it launches itself towards my floor board and when I pull it back up it does the same. I’m almost positive it’s air but even with a bleeding kit. I can’t get it fixed. What do I do
The key is getting the air out of the master cylinder. Then it should flush out the line and slave fully.
You can try tapping *lightly* on the clutch MC with a hammer to try and dislodge air from it. Also try thumping on the hose with your finger between the clutch MC and the brake MC reservoir for the same reason. In this situation it’s always best to have the bleed screw open when pushing the clutch pedal down and then close the bleed screw before pulling the pedal back up. Kind of a pain that way, but the best procedure if there may be air in the MC. The light tapping on the clutch MC you can also try to with the pedal down and the bleed screw open and then again with the bleed screw closed and the pedal up.
this assumes you have good parts and they’re all installed correctly ...
I am thinking of replacing all brake and clutch bleed nipples with Speed Bleeders and then replacing all of the brake/clutch fluid. Everything works fine although the clutch is really tough. It engages/disengages with very little travel but I have to wait until my foot is almost on the floor pan before I change gear. I am assuming it is just a case of old fluid or trapped bubbles rather than the clutch itself.
The car is a 2004 192 with, I think, the original clutch and 64k on the clock.
The fluid looks clear and I've got a fluid tester arriving in the next few days. But I am going to do this replacement anyway.
That may mean it needs a new clutch. The engagement gets lower when the disc wears out. Usually you can tell the difference in feel between air in the line or not.
06-02-2010, 12:00 AM
DIY :clutch fluid bleeding??
Obviously... you've never done this...
