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DIY: Clean your OMP/MOP injectors

Old Nov 9, 2011 | 11:11 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by lta_ds_fs7
I thought they had a kit that replaces ALL of the lines :/
No mi amiga.
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 12:39 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by dannobre
Did you do the vac test on them when you were done?

You have to be careful blowing compressed air into the valves...they tend to lock stuck open and won't hold vac properly. Make sure you blow the air into them in the closed position to re-set the ball
What do you mean by reseting the ball, I do have one stuck open, I was going to work on getting it unstuck tonight. By the way, I never blew compressed air into the valves.
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 01:43 PM
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in side there is a ball, kind of like speed bleeders on brake calipers. The ***** purpose is to allow one way flow. If it is dirty inside and get stuck then it can prevent the flow.
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 02:06 PM
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I know how it works, but how do you reset the ball?

Last edited by Hesselrode; Nov 9, 2011 at 02:15 PM.
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 03:45 PM
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Carefully blow some air in it the way you want the ball to go Use some high temp silicone spray to lubricate them...seemed to work well on mine

I cleaned mine in an ultrasonic cleaner and then lubed them. All 4 were stuck open before the cleaning..and they worked perfectly after I was done
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 04:10 PM
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ultrasonic FTW
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by shadycrew31
Someone somewhere was talking about getting a banjo fitting at the end of a braided line. I thought it was RB or mazdatrix.
That would not be hard to do. You could even use stainless steel tube lines, but that would be more work to form them. Flex hoses would be simpler all around. Could probably all be identical, just bolt them in and tire wrap them for a clean looking install.


.
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 05:10 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
That would not be hard to do. You could even use stainless steel tube lines, but that would be more work to form them. Flex hoses would be simpler all around. Could probably all be identical, just bolt them in and tire wrap them for a clean looking install.


.
Steel hard lines would work. Not sure how vibration, etc. would affect them though
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
That would not be hard to do. You could even use stainless steel tube lines, but that would be more work to form them. Flex hoses would be simpler all around. Could probably all be identical, just bolt them in and tire wrap them for a clean looking install.


.
Hmmm question is would it be worth it considering the average lifespan of these lines. I suppose if you were running a top mount turbo that still allowed you to use the OMP it should be on the list.
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 06:42 PM
  #35  
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My lines look and feel brand new. It is a garage b**** and has 158,000 miles on these lines. As far as checking that valve wasn't stuck, I stuck my lips to and sucked. Found one stuck open and one slightly open. Just used my syringe and sucked purple degreaser until didn't suck anymore. And rechecked an cleaned and flushed with oil until I get my new engine. I have access to someone that can fabricate small aluminum tubing for oil lines. Don't know if I will go that route or not though.
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Old Nov 18, 2011 | 07:34 AM
  #36  
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You can get goodridge stainless steel omp lines from

http://www.rotorsportsracing.com/per...g/OMPlines.htm

It says FD, but if you call up they have ones made specifically for RX8 aswell, i got myself a set, very good quality, however only issue is that they were not sleeved.
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Old Nov 18, 2011 | 08:51 AM
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^ that seems a tad expensive... you will need 4. the site says $100 for 2 so rx8 owners will need to spend 200 on those lines.
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Old Nov 18, 2011 | 10:54 AM
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I don't see how those SS will route very nicely without touching each other and having vibration and abrasion issues. Not worth it IMO. The factory lines are just fine and last up to 100k easy, if yours need replacing that is the way to go.

Last edited by 9krpmrx8; Nov 18, 2011 at 10:56 AM.
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 08:03 PM
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Is it possible to get to the omp lines and injectors with the engine in the car or do you have to take it out? I think I have a clogged injector and I don't have access to a engine hoist
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 08:33 PM
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Just need to pull the upper intake and all the stuff off the top
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 11:17 PM
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Just want to share this . The omp lines on my fc has over 200k. And it still ok until i removed then and broke it all
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 08:56 AM
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A new set from Mazda is about $200 retail. The other thing about the braided lines is that you can't see if they are all filled with oil or not.
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 10:16 AM
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another thing I wanna point out is, these "injectors" will clog no matter what. 2 of them on my FC are already clogged up. it was easy to unclog it, just spray some brake cleaner thru it for a few seconds, good as new.
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 08:52 AM
  #44  
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Is it hard to get the intake off? Will I need any new gaskets? Sorry I'm asking so many noon questions lol. I just like to know what I'm getting into before I do it
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 10:59 AM
  #45  
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when you take off the intake you will see if you need new gaskets or not...

most likely not though.
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Old Mar 6, 2015 | 12:38 PM
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EDIT: I had a bigger write up but it didn't save for some reason only this chunk. Stupid servers. I'm not writing that **** all out again. Cole's Note version coming

Ya, a bit of a thread revival but I wanted to put this somewhere without having to start yet another OMP thread.

2005 MT - 150,000 km's, running standard OMP -- SOHN being implemented.

I decided to tear down my OMP system for several reasons:
1) Heat damage to OMP
2) I was suspecting the lines were plugged or the injectors were plugged.

I have a spare used OMP of which I'm assuming works.
Also a spare set of OMP Lines which in no better condition than my current lines.


Heat Damage on the OMP:
The plug end still functions, but can it be replaced?
DIY: Clean your OMP/MOP injectors-omg.jpg

Injectors tested out fine and look good
DIY: Clean your OMP/MOP injectors-oilinjector.jpg

Oil Lines are completely clogged. I've ordered a new set.

DIY: Clean your OMP/MOP injectors-oillines.jpg

Last edited by wcs; Mar 6, 2015 at 12:55 PM.
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Old May 3, 2025 | 07:27 PM
  #47  
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Excellent test. I too am purging/flowing them with degreaser and repeated Ultrasonic exposure. They gradually seal better (hold vacuum) every time. :-) and look newer all the time. Something else I realized - if you test vacuum when still wet with degreaser/cleaner solution they hold better...but when rinsed with water and blown out - change. not sure yet if wet with oil changes vacuum test...? I presume it would.
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Old May 4, 2025 | 01:28 PM
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So I have had the same results. 2 out of 4 were stuck open, 1 was marginal. After many cycles of ultrasonic cleaning and a few blasts with carb cleaner, then added a few drops or engine oil and now all 4 seems to be functioning normally.

The only concern I have is whether or not there is more carbon deposits just waiting to become dislodged and stick them open again....do I risk it?
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Old May 4, 2025 | 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by dannobre
Carefully blow some air in it the way you want the ball to go Use some high temp silicone spray to lubricate them...seemed to work well on mine

I cleaned mine in an ultrasonic cleaner and then lubed them. All 4 were stuck open before the cleaning..and they worked perfectly after I was done
I am now (so long of time has passed) just curious if this ever worked out ok for you? I am very tempted to just reuse the ones i cleaned.
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