Put the walls back in. They are there for a reason. The Revi duct should have little to no impact.

Make sure your screen(s) are intact.

The RX-8 airbox is already a CAI, and the stock filter (with walls intact behind it) is capable of flowing more air than a N/A Renesis can use. Messing with the stock airbox only causes problems.

 

The idle problems stopped after putting the walls in, I drove about 200miles with the walls off and the car would stall when hot, throttle was indeed a bit more responsive after removing the walls (yet no effect 0-60mph times), but that is not worth the idle problems . The RPM problems which came up about 100 miles ago are caused by slipping clutch .

And model in question is modified 2003 5 speed Manual.

 

Good to hear. The MAF sensor in this car is very sensitive to laminar flow. Anything you do that creates turbulence harms performance in some way.

In reality, the stock airbox is already very well designed. There may be 3HP of additional performance available at high RPM, but 3HP is not even enough to be felt by the butt dyno, and most people spend less than 5% of their time at 7500RPM and above. The intake is simply not worth messing with.

 

yeah but its a 4 port redlined at 8700rpm so i figured it would enjoy better intake flow. But i guess it is as good as it gets.

Im not sure what to upgrade next...
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I never know what upgrade I want to do next lol

 

To revive a well dead thread, i was wondering if resetting the ecu for this mod might help with the CEL code of an adtermarket exhaust?

 

Will be removing walls and not screens for a noise change, as everyone warned me the drone of turboxs is growing tiresome

 

you are wasting yours and everybody else's time in this thread. It has nothing to do with your exhaust.

 

thank you, team. this was a WTH is he talking about moment for me. The two couldn't be farther apart. Your intake has nothing to do with your exhaust note / tone and it certainly won't change the behavior of an (assumed) O2 sensor code.

I will humor him slightly though. You can quiet down the TurboXS exhaust nicely with a tame mid-pipe / silencer. I paired my TXS with a BHR mid-pipe and was very happy with it.

 

Hahaha i wasn't refering to a change in exhaust note but moreso the addition of any new "noise". Thanks for your input tho

 

And to be clear on my other point, i wondered if the resetting of ecu to relearn the airflow dynamics of airbox mod might help with an cel code of the o2 sensor on exhaust. Seemed like if it was relearning it would consider the code as normal? *Sighs* will have to just fork out for mazda edit

 

Your ECU could care less how air gets delivered to the engine, so long as it passes over the MAF sensor the MAF table is static. So if you want to change those dynamics in any manner whatsoever, guess what you're doing? MazdaEdit there too, buddy.

Typically people rescale their MAF when they change the diameter of the intake. Bigger diameter == more flow and to quote the all mighty MM, it always boils down to flow.

"Relearning" involves short term and long term fuel trim and yeah it'll clear your O2 sensor CEL too. There are no tunable "airflow dynamics". The air either passes over the MAF with or without turbulence.

I sense some trollness in you. that's probably what triggered Team... he's got quite the nose for trolls.

I think what you really need is a K&N intake (the original one) and screw the silencer on your mid-pipe... hell drop it and the catback entirely and just run a 12" long straight pipe right off the exhaust manifold. You'll get some really nice noise with this setup and won't have to run a heater in the winter / summer (I see you're down under) -- the sheer heat from your exhaust will keep your feet warm. Even better, it'll forewarn people of your arrival well in advance -- I'm guessing giving them sufficient time to hide.

 

Loud pipes save lives the exhaust is plenty loud as is, i just wish i could be quiet at those times of need. I'm currently just clearing the code as it appears. If you drive like a nana it doesn't come on at all. Mazedit permanently removes the appearance of all CEL you deem normal? Not really a troll just a noob.

 

We don't even technically have winter where im located, temps still reach 86F daily during "winter" so really we just have a "not deathly hot cycle". Really makes me giggle a little bit at the whole CAI. Been toying with the idea of moving the intake to the high pressure zone on the engine bay near the windscreen and coupling it with a hood scoop

 

fair enough.

The readiness test will still fail (show as incomplete) but yeah, the light will stay off. Depending on regulatory / inspection requirements this may or may not present a problem for you in the long run. Obviously, you can just put the stock mid pipe back on and run with it long enough for the test to pass and then put your custom setup back on afterwards.

There are some nice silencers out there. I couldn't handle the TXS full setup as is. Was unbearable.

The best intake solution I've seen is the AEM CAI. Incidentally, it is no different than the original mazdaspeed CAI. I loved my AEM and it coupled nicely with my turbo setup.

 

well I hope you understand that as you described it, that means a rear facing hood scoop extending to the windshield and/or and also cutting the upper firewall out between the engine bay and the cowl area where the windshield wiper motor and mechanism system is.

 

Will eventually kill the engine with a turbo when this political nonsense about corona finishes. And no i didnt realise moving the air intake entailed so much. Theres no way i can do without windscreen wipers

 

Not much info about all the different hood styles out there, is it basically any vent design will do?

 

So what is the final conclussion?

I' ve just removed both side walls, and it feels a little bit more responsive... But maybe it's placebo..