Is there a definitive solution for o2 simulator with midpipe?
03-09-2007, 02:06 PM
#29
High-flow or not, no CAT will survive the EGTs of a tuned turbo setup. Even the metal-matrix CATs will burn at the sustained 1800°F that can occur.
As far as the CEL goes, there are quite a few of us that simply don't get one.
However, you can use the analog voltage MAP on the EMU to trim the output of the sensor so that it looks like the CAT is there and doing its job. Just trim the voltage across the entire range one or two clicks leaner (IIRC, that would be to turn down the voltage .1 or .2v), and the PCM should be pretty happy since it will see the waveform it expects.
Traditional "O2-foolers" will not work on the RX-8 because of its sensor testing strategy.
If you are worried about "pollution", just watch your TV for 2 or 3 hours less a week, keep your water heater on a reasonable setting and stop causing volcanos and you will make up the difference with room to spare.
As far as the CEL goes, there are quite a few of us that simply don't get one.
However, you can use the analog voltage MAP on the EMU to trim the output of the sensor so that it looks like the CAT is there and doing its job. Just trim the voltage across the entire range one or two clicks leaner (IIRC, that would be to turn down the voltage .1 or .2v), and the PCM should be pretty happy since it will see the waveform it expects.
Traditional "O2-foolers" will not work on the RX-8 because of its sensor testing strategy.
If you are worried about "pollution", just watch your TV for 2 or 3 hours less a week, keep your water heater on a reasonable setting and stop causing volcanos and you will make up the difference with room to spare.
03-10-2007, 02:07 AM
#30
Registered User
Originally Posted by dDuB
Same thing I was thinking!
Now I have a cell that's stuck on all of the time so I can't get my car inspected. And there is no easy solution for me either, I still have my stock cat but it doesn't have the hanger anymore because I'm using it to keep the RP from dragging on my crossbrace.
Not the worst money I have ever spent but up there pretty high.
-Mr. Wigggles
03-10-2007, 02:11 AM
#31
Registered User
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
High-flow or not, no CAT will survive the EGTs of a tuned turbo setup. Even the metal-matrix CATs will burn at the sustained 1800°F that can occur.
And the voltage adjust, can that be done manually with some sort of OP-AMP or do you need to change the data with an Engine management to make it look like there is a different voltage? (Any idea what the target voltage is?)
-Mr. Wigggles
03-10-2007, 02:22 AM
#32
In theory, you could just do it with a 1/2 watt resistor. I did that on my Miata.
The acceptable voltage range is in the FSM.
Moving the CAT might help, but there aren't too many places to put it because of space constraints. It will also loose efficiency at idle (where it counts).
The acceptable voltage range is in the FSM.
Moving the CAT might help, but there aren't too many places to put it because of space constraints. It will also loose efficiency at idle (where it counts).
05-11-2010, 10:12 AM
#40
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MM, you should do a DIY on this changing the voltage to the second sensor thing your speaking of. Very curious about this. Lemme know a bit of info i could probably figure it out myself but no idea where to go about mounting it or so on and so forth. Just a lil bit more details would be pro ( =
03-17-2011, 08:42 AM
#41
Sorry to revive this thread but apparently this is an ongoing problem catless 8 owners are having. I tried the spark plug fouled method without luck... Im saving to get the ap but i would like to try what mm is saying about lowering the voltage on post #29.
Mm can you give us a step by step of how to go about doing this?
Or where would you place the resistor?
Mm can you give us a step by step of how to go about doing this?
Or where would you place the resistor?
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