All of it. It got worse when driving at certain rpms under load. My friends and I had to yell at each other when we talked, and one even said it was louder than his modded sport bike.

 

Finally I got my ECU back from RB. I have race flash and yeah it's a quite noticeable difference. But when I put back my ECU to car after 3 weeks, ABS light is all the time on and dsc. Also CEL appeard immediately. Earlier when I did ECU reset, it appeard after few days.. And red car with the key light is blinking. Engine dies few time at iddle below 500rpm, but now I quess is normall at 700rpm. I Got Europen version, so don't know, worry or not. Car pulls very strong almost to 10k rpm now. I drove about 40 miles today.

 

I'd certainly (at least) email RB about those events...

Have you disconnected and reconnected the battery again? ABS/DSC light on after connecting battery means you need to calibrate the system turning steering wheel lock-2-lock.

 

I did. Waiting for an answer. I turned few times steering wheel but nothing has gone. Earlier when I do that, DSC light turnes off.

 

Did they know you had a Euro Spec ECU?

 

Yeah sure. They didn't know is there any difference between US, JAP ( are the same ) and EU. Well that's why sent them, to find out. I quess there is not much difference if they programed Race flash.

 

Hi MegaLoL, please keep us informed about the development and solution of your problems, I've also an euro RX-8 and I'm thinking about making this ECU reflash.

 

sigh same problems as me.

Dyno tomorrow. With the new coils, plugs and wires. We shall see if that was the problem or not

 

I got email from Jim. Immobilizer has been switched off by them. They don't know what causes ABS and DSC, but propably differences between US and EU.

 

What You mean same?? Exactly like I have??

 

I need to give them a call, cause while on Vacation I could drop off my PCM.. Question is, can they reflash 07's ?

 

I saw you at sublime today.

We have got to go for a cruise sometime. I'm intrested in seeing what a stock RX8 feels like.

 

Sounds good. Just let me know! How did the rest of Dyno go?

 

Kinda disappointing, we learned that with my current setup the car likes a lot of heat, 230 degrees water, and 220 oil to make its best power. We achieved this by removing the fans on the oil cooler and making several consecutive runs without letting the car cool.

They said that my timing was probably off because it gave a better burn when the engine was hotter. Or he said my plugs might be the wrong heat range. Sucks because I am using the cheap plug alternative, the RX7 plugs https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/pics-magnecor-competiton-kv85-wires-rx7-spark-plugs-113518/. Something might be wrong with those.

 

Anyone with thoughts, opinions, suggestions? RG, MM?

I guess I will try going back to 87 octane for a while and see what that does.

Do you think that a hollowed out RP supercat (as opposed to a failed one), new falken tires 245/40/18, and the new plugs could really cause -6 hp, and a car that steadily increases in power as it gets hotter?

First pull was 176 hp, but the dyno brake was on and I forgot to pull the DSC/ABS fuse.

Second pull was 180, third was around 184, fourth, 186, fifth, 187 and finally 189 when my car was the hottest.

im still running 7s and 9s for my plug heat ranges.

 

One reason I never did like using the RX-7 plugs was that they seemed to slow the throttle response and certainly made the engine sound less than pristine to me. Your problems could actually be tied to a number of things that "stacked up". Why did you stop the runs at/around 8,700 rpms?

 

Just got back from the track and want to report on the racing reflash as promised.
Car pulls hard up to over 9500 rpms. Very pleased with the reflash.
This is how a rotary should perform. The RB mid pipe and Mazdaspeed CAI all works great with the refash.
Awesome!! Best $300.00 that I ever spent!!

 

Great to read such an enthusiastic report. Thx.

 

What is the different running the standard RB flash with a midpipe vs RB race flash with midpipe? Techically, what is the different between these two flashes beside the race flash has to run with a midpipe? I have RB standard flash and run my car with midpipe. Car pull hard all the way to redline north of 9000 rpm ( I always shift when hear the beep so I never try to see how many rpm it will pull pass 9300 rpm). Wonder if race flash offer more power than normal flash. Has anyone drive one car with RB race flash back to back with another car with standard RB flash? Any noticable different? Just curious since Racing Beats doesn't explain what the different between race flash and their standard flash on their website.

 

I would think (but don't know) that the race flash may trade some mid range power for more peak power at a higher rev range, which is where you would be 90% of the time when racing. So if you don't spend most of your time racing you'll probably be happier with the street flash.

 

My guess is that RB went a little bit leaner on the "race" than they did the "street" version because, in a racing context, we don't typically have to worry about cat temps.

 

Im wondering what octane of gas this flash was tuned for.

Remeber that mazsport found when releasing the int-x for N/A that it made more power when tuned for 87 octane.

 

I suspect RB would tune for premium fuel as that is what Mazda suggests we use. I didn't know that Scott experienced that outcome nor did I know he tried it, but it makes sense. I just wouldn't want to run that close to the possibility of detonation under high-load circumstances.

 

I've been closely watching this thread for awhile now and am seriously considering buying this flash. Has anyone used a OBDII datalogger to log the AFRs in a 3rd gear run from 5000 rpm to redline? That would go a long way towards telling how well the RB flash is tuning the car. If folks remember from back in the early Canzoomer piggyback days, it was found that the MAFS voltage had a large vairance between cars. This explained why, on this forum, we were seeing great differences in what stock cars were putting down on the dyno. Some stock cars put down around 200 rwhp while some others only put down 170ish. I know the Interceptor X ignores the MAFS signal (I think), but how does the Racing Beat flash handle that (if it does)? If it does not, then we might see the same thing here that we saw before. Cars that were more powerful stock will not see as much of a gain, but cars that were weaker before will see bigger gains.

Point being, only way we can really tell, is to get someone with the RB flash to log AFRs, post flash after the car has reached operating temp, and see what they are. Anyone willing to do that?

 

I'll give you my thoughts RPIRX-8 on what happens ASA I get the coilovers, R-comps, and my RB ECU installed, then get to the track for a test. I'm also adding a super secret "ECU lobotomy" circuit to mine to insure consistant to RB-SPEC results.