What is the optimal temperature for fuel to be burned in a rotary engine? I believe in a typical piston it is somewhere around 200 degrees.

 

Typically, its about 1200°F to 1600°F for gasoline.
I take it you mean coolant temp, which is anywhere from 185°F to 215°F.

 

Sorry OD, I just couldn't let this one slide...

[sic] is what is used when you quote someone who has misspelled something. That way, the person doing the quoting doesn't get the blame for the poor spelling.

 

Don't get pissy. I'm not attacking you. Just your ideas. You (and a majority of people here) need to separate the two. Just because you are wrong doesn't make you a pariah.

Tim explained the proper use of [sic], so I won't elaborate.

The parasitic drag of the water pump is, of course, exponential with RPM (until cavitation, which begins near redline on all pump designs). However, the reduction of the UD pulley is linear, so the total effect is both detrimental to flow and minimal on drag reduction.

UD pullies are most effective on negating the drag of a PS pump first and an alternator second. Mazda already did a pretty good job of underdriving the generator already and there is no PS. The A/C is a null entity because it doesn't factor into available power.
Until you have seen the effect of a UD set on a dyno, you won't understand that it has no effect on the net power of the Renesis. It is just a dress-up item.

BTW - if your oil coolers are getting bent in the middle of a single race, you should stop trying to do off-road rallies with an RX-8.

 

Sigh------------at my age I am doing good just knowing how to get to the forum. Besides i am in the medical field--we dont have to know how to spell.

By the way MD how did that 3nd cooler work out? what kind of temps are you now seeing? You made a good choice on the one you installed.
OD

 

^^ hey olddragger did you ever find a thermo? I was looking over the weekend for you but didn't find any.

 

There are dynos on this site that do show gains !

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...chmentid=77789

 

If you are looking for a 180F thermostat,that is what comes with the engine from Mazda,same as all Mazda rotary engine t/stats.

 

too bad real gains from an UD pulley setup would show no gains down low and increasing gains with increasing rpms - the exact opposite of what is shown

all you see there is simple dyno variation

 

have not fitted my pulley yet - is there any test I could do that would be acceptable ?
I have :
G tech
Hymee scanalyser (on the way)
Will be dynoing car tomorrow before the flywheel is fitted.

Mazda Maniac - there must be some test I could do with this lot that would satisfy ?
Will be testing all my mods in some way so any advice would be appreciated.

Will start a new thread on this as it is off topic - sorry .

 

First of all, the "gain" in that chart is inside the statiscal variation for any set of dyno pulls.
Second, notice how the "gain" dissapears at the top of the RPM band - the place where you would want the greatest reduction in drive losses.

 

Here is my suggestion. Use the G-tech comparing 0-30, 0-60 & 0-100 kph times. This is where you would see changes, if any. Make sure the temperature, humidity & vehicle weight are the same (same amount of petrol in tank).

Horsepower changes will be negligable I suspect, so the G-tech will not show much.

 

Can appreciate what you are saying mm but if it was just statistical variation you would see parallel lines right through the whole chart wouldn't you ?
The fact that the lines come together at high RPM surely points to a change in power characteristics .

 

I do appreciate your eagerness and effort in this. As was suggested, a series of G-Tech runs with the ONLY change being the pullies would be helpful.

However, I assure you that you are wasting your time.
Even on a vehicle with HUGE parasitic losses to a giant water pump, and archaic PS pump and a giant alternator, UD pullies would produce a net increase of 2 or 3 HP, which is, in the real world, useless.
Your best bet is an electrical water pump and an alternator field cut-off switch.
You could net up to 15 HP that way.

 

I agree that WOT runs will not show any difference (you have convinced me of that)
However , if there is more power midrange (as the dyno suggests) that would show up in some 80-120 km/hr in gear tests - yes ?

 

Mid-range or not, WOT is all that matters.
If you are looking for power at part throtlle, just step on it harder!

 

my mistake
What I should have said is that going WOT in gear in general driving should show a difference because you are in in mid rpm range.
In a 1/4 mile drag race you aren't operating in mid range RPM at all so you won't notice gains.

 

In racing, you are in the entire RPM range. Daily driving should be no different, just not WOT.

In any event, you shouldn't care about "mid" power in general, unless it is such a hole in drivability that there is a problem - in which case UD pullies are not the proper solution.

 

hmmm - pretty sure I don't dip below 6000 rpm when redlining in each gear. Mind you things are happening pretty quick & I tend to pay more attention to the road

 

or pm works the same. thanks for noting it was off topic.


beers

 

oops should have stopped there & then - delete all those posts if you like

 

no problem. i have learned lots... just under the topic you are talking about it would be easier for others to find.

beers

 

and check pm

beers

 

getting back on topic:

I have recieved and installed the modification, I want to wait until the motor and ECU settle backin after resetting the ECU before I post observations. I can say the install was easy, and like all Mazsport products, the product was very high quality.

You can fault Scott if you want for gold plating everything he does, but, you get what you pay for.

 

Thanks for the feedback Brillo and glad to hear the install went well. BTW, it's ceramic coated not gold plated