Looking for a cooler running RX-8?
08-23-2006, 08:37 AM
#52
Original Turbo 'd Auto !!
Originally Posted by Phil@desertboilers.com
How about posting your mod in the DIY section.
08-23-2006, 08:56 AM
#53
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Originally Posted by t-run/8
How would this mod effect someone in South Carolina where the coldest day of the year we see at about 20 at the lowest. (only for 20 minutes at the most in the early early morning) Would it make the heating up process take much longer?
Last edited by MazsportScott; 08-23-2006 at 08:59 AM.
08-23-2006, 09:19 AM
#54
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Originally Posted by Zero_Rotary
i see 2 relays having 2 wires attached to them....are does normal relays that can easily be replace if the relay got blown? I mean are the wires easily detached and re-attached? Im asking in case we need to replace the relays.
08-23-2006, 11:41 AM
#55
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Originally Posted by MazsportScott
The kit replaces the factory relays so if there were a failure simply remove the new relays and reinstall the factory units. Gentlemen keep in mind, All Mazsport products are tested in multiple vehicles in different enviroments and installed by various users before release. This kit for instance was being tested in Chicago,North Carolina and here in Florida more than three months ago, there have been no failures at all or we would not have released the product. As always, thanks for your support,Scott
i was actually asking whether the relays you got on your units can be replaced with normal factory relay(attaching the wires to the factory relay) if somehow they get faulty/blown, or are you saying if the relay get blown i wont be able to use the unit anymore?
the reason im asking is that i had the factory fan relay blown at one time
thanks
08-23-2006, 11:54 AM
#56
I wanna rock! Rock!
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A toggle switch is cheaper yeah, BUT if you're not in constant high heat weather then you need some way to monitor your coolant temps in order to turn those fans off. So either you have your canscanalyser hooked up (pain in the butt) or buy a $150ish coolant temp gauge. In the end the largest part of the market (climate region) pays the same amount of money, but those with one solution have to monitor a gauge.
08-23-2006, 02:51 PM
#59
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Originally Posted by t-run/8
Is it absolutley necessary to buy a tempt gauge with it?
08-23-2006, 03:41 PM
#61
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Here is when this mod tickles me, and I am female, so I can get away with saying "tickles"
I walk away from my car after driving around in 90+ temps and I can hear the fans turn off before I walk away.
I have to tell you, it always bothered me when that fan would run a long time....
I walk away from my car after driving around in 90+ temps and I can hear the fans turn off before I walk away.
I have to tell you, it always bothered me when that fan would run a long time....
08-23-2006, 05:57 PM
#63
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In regards to the fans running after shutdown:
So which is it? My though is, if the engine is running cooler to begin with, it won't take as long to cool it down after shutdown.
Personally, coming from a '67 GTO with an electric fan w/toggle switch, it was second nature for me to flip the switch when I started the car. Problems arose when someone else drove the car and forgot to flip it.
MM: Still waiting for a How-To for my toggle switch!
Thanks in advance!!!
MD
Originally Posted by swoope
no,
they still run, but not for as long.... it is warmer down here.....
they still run, but not for as long.... it is warmer down here.....
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
This will make it run longer.
Personally, coming from a '67 GTO with an electric fan w/toggle switch, it was second nature for me to flip the switch when I started the car. Problems arose when someone else drove the car and forgot to flip it.
MM: Still waiting for a How-To for my toggle switch!
Thanks in advance!!!MD
08-23-2006, 06:33 PM
#64
Because the fan is running more while the car is on, the temps are going to be lower than they otherwise would be. When the car is turned off, the fan will run till the car is cooler than it would be stock, but because it's already been cooled earlier, it might not have to run as long.
08-23-2006, 06:55 PM
#66
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Nice Website! I've never been there before!
The thing I found Most interesting was this:
Perhaps it would work the other way around... Ya know?! Put an MX5 engine in our 8...?!
Then I could be a P!$$'d-off Piston owner...
Perhaps it would work the other way around... Ya know?! Put an MX5 engine in our 8...?!
Then I could be a P!$$'d-off Piston owner...
08-23-2006, 08:38 PM
#67
Originally Posted by mysql101
Because the fan is running more while the car is on, the temps are going to be lower than they otherwise would be. When the car is turned off, the fan will run till the car is cooler than it would be stock, but because it's already been cooled earlier, it might not have to run as long.
However, it takes coolant longer to go from 200° to 180° than it does to go from 230° to 200° in the same ambient situation.
08-23-2006, 08:39 PM
#68
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Originally Posted by rexi
Mazsport scott,
would this unit be compatible with our Australian cars? There appears to be interest here as temperatures can get quite hot?
Regards
Rexi
would this unit be compatible with our Australian cars? There appears to be interest here as temperatures can get quite hot?
Regards
Rexi
08-23-2006, 10:00 PM
#69
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
Exactly.
However, it takes coolant longer to go from 200° to 180° than it does to go from 230° to 200° in the same ambient situation.
However, it takes coolant longer to go from 200° to 180° than it does to go from 230° to 200° in the same ambient situation.
this is a na observation...
beers
08-23-2006, 11:14 PM
#70
did the install tonight, took about 15 minutes. The instructions are of wordy considering you are basically doing this:
1) cut coolant hose
2) plug in sensor, tighten with clamps
3) connect grounding wire
4) connect two plugs into fuse box (driver side front of the car), making a small cut into the fuse box lid to allow the wire to enter.
Pictures would have made the instructions clearer, but I was able to do it without them...
didn't get a chance to play with it much. And I no longer have a canscan on the car, so I can't give anyone numbers right now.
1) cut coolant hose
2) plug in sensor, tighten with clamps
3) connect grounding wire
4) connect two plugs into fuse box (driver side front of the car), making a small cut into the fuse box lid to allow the wire to enter.
Pictures would have made the instructions clearer, but I was able to do it without them...
didn't get a chance to play with it much. And I no longer have a canscan on the car, so I can't give anyone numbers right now.
08-24-2006, 11:22 AM
#71
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Pictures
Created a Pre & Post Installation Page with Photos of how this product looks once installed. Please go to Photo Page to view.
Mazsport staff has done all the hard work for you to make our unit plug n play, (this is not a toggle switch) With No Monitoring Required
Mazsport staff has done all the hard work for you to make our unit plug n play, (this is not a toggle switch) With No Monitoring Required
08-24-2006, 12:09 PM
#72
The way I see it this mod eliminates the PCM from controlling the fans by turning them on let say at 10 F lower engine temp. And since the PCM has no control over the fans we are loosing the low-high fan speeds.
Wouldn't be cheaper and OEM looking if just replace the ECT sensor with a one with appropriate temp/resistance relation that will trick the PCM to think that the turn-on-fan temp is reached, but actually it is 10 F lower?
I know PCM uses ECT sensor input for calculating fuel and timing at some point, but would it make that much of a difference?
Wouldn't be cheaper and OEM looking if just replace the ECT sensor with a one with appropriate temp/resistance relation that will trick the PCM to think that the turn-on-fan temp is reached, but actually it is 10 F lower?
I know PCM uses ECT sensor input for calculating fuel and timing at some point, but would it make that much of a difference?
Last edited by SC-ed; 08-24-2006 at 12:21 PM.
08-24-2006, 01:00 PM
#73
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Originally Posted by SC-ed
The way I see it this mod eliminates the PCM from controlling the fans by turning them on let say at 10 F lower engine temp. And since the PCM has no control over the fans we are loosing the low-high fan speeds.
Wouldn't be cheaper and OEM looking if just replace the ECT sensor with a one with appropriate temp/resistance relation that will trick the PCM to think that the turn-on-fan temp is reached, but actually it is 10 F lower?
I know PCM uses ECT sensor input for calculating fuel and timing at some point, but would it make that much of a difference?
Wouldn't be cheaper and OEM looking if just replace the ECT sensor with a one with appropriate temp/resistance relation that will trick the PCM to think that the turn-on-fan temp is reached, but actually it is 10 F lower?
I know PCM uses ECT sensor input for calculating fuel and timing at some point, but would it make that much of a difference?
08-24-2006, 01:21 PM
#74
Originally Posted by MazsportScott
... The factory ECU works in conjunction with this kit to operate the fans, we have not eliminated ECU control.
How the PCM controls the fans when they are already forced full speed on by your mod?
Am I missing something here?
08-24-2006, 02:28 PM
#75
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The fan control is now an OR situation with the two inputs being either the factory ecu or the signal from Scott's system. Either system can now start the fans, but both systems have to agree to stops the fans.
Last edited by rkostolni; 08-24-2006 at 02:58 PM.