... intresting....

 

Installed the Fiber Carbon clutch, ACT HD PP, and OEM pilot and release bearing.

Had a problem ordering the replacement friction disc from Racingbeat for the aluminum flywheel I have installed. The website order number was wrong for the RX-8 flywheel. Racingbeat sent me the correct friction disc and fixed the website immediately . Kudos to Racingbeat, awesome products and great customer service.

Pulled it from the garage but couldn't drive it today, the roads are icy here in Philly. Will update as soon as the weather turns.

BTW, the pedal effort is a tad bit heavier, but this setup feel more weighted in a good way with way better feedback of clutch engagement, the stock setup is a bit light and vague in comparison.

 

I ordered all the components separately from different vendors for slightly under $400. There was a problem with the clutch disc from Clutchnet.com.

 

The fiber carbon clutch disc was a "yellow light" performance light which I assumed was equivalent to a "Stage 1 kit" based on their convention:

Green: 10 to 15% performance improvement from stock
Yellow: Street performance & Racing
Red: Racing applications

 

All I wanna know is how does it feel when driving with Carbon Disc.

Im still in the market for a Clutch. I already have the Fidanza ficition replacement. new throwout bearing, and pilot bearing (even got the tools for pilot bearing, Mazda OEM tool)

 

Now Im thinking, since Mazda try to be a ****, so maybe I should go back to stock disc?

I was starring at my old stock PP for a while, and I wonder if I can reuse that, just buy a new stock disc, and reinstall everything. I have no idea how to check if the old stock PP is still good tho.

should I do that ? I mean go back to stock stuff*

 

I'll try that next week, thx

 

I'm still getting use to driving the new clutch setup, it chatters if I'm sloppy with engaging the clutch from a stop. It does shift solid at speed and at WOT, very nice. For daily driving I think I'd go with the kevlar disc from clutchnet for smooth driving.

 

I do tons of city driving, hmm its about 75/25 (City/Highway)

I have a lot going on my mind ... should I stick it with stock disc + reuse the original PP, or go with clutch master stage 3 ... thinking................

 

Wow, not to bring back a dead thread but I have a question. I need a new clutch (car revs when trying to take off from a stop and when moving in ANY gear), my question is can I get away with just getting a new clutch disc and maybe the throwout bearing or do I need to get the entire kit regardless? I haven't actually had it checked so I don't know what everything looks like in there but I'm almost positive it's the disc.

 

Hmm, so can doesn't move at all when in gear and I can put it in any gear without stalling - I know this is impossible, but is it possible that there is air in the clutch line? just thought I'd ask...

 

I think ur drivetrain is *fudged*

 

quick update on ACT clutches. they offer an extreme plate for the RX-8 but dont reccomend useing it due to firewall flexing issues. only in reinforced firewall applications. im confused on how a clutch could flex my firewall?

 

Firewall flexes because the clutch is so stiff that you need to push really hard on the pedal...and that flexes the firewall

The bracket is likely to be the first thing that breaks in this car...it is failing a lot on stock clutch applications

 

oo, someone needs to go take a picture of the 2009 clutch pedal bracket.

 

ok gotcha, i was compleatly over analysing the issue.

any fixes other than steel plate reinforcement?

 

The Centerforce Dual Friction clutch has a lighter pedal feel than stock.

That solves the issue.

If a person needs more than twice as much holding power as stock then they are already looking at beefing things up.

 

How is the Clutch masters stage 3 clutch? would a stage 3 be too much for me to jump to for just road use and some days at the track here and there? also i am placing an order for a Stage II Petitt racing SC. so should i just stick with a aftermarket stage 1 or go with the 3 while im at it? i have a stock one in my car now.

 

JWoody, my understanding is a stage 3 clutch would support something around 450whp which is going to be way more than you'll be seeing with the stage 2 pettit. I would look more into a stage 2 if you're concerned about slipping.

The more aggressive the clutch the less of it's normal drivability your going to have. It's fine for track only cars but when you have no real ability to feather the clutch on the street it can be hell on your neck.

 

haha well thanks Flashwing. that was the exact answer i was looking for!

 

I have a 2004 six-speed manual RX8 with 73K miles and I recently found out that I'll be needing a new engine. Since the car dealership will have the motor out I was thinking about getting the clutch replaced at the same time. It's only an extra 30min of labor to replace it but the dealership quoted me at $650 for the parts. If I decided to buy the clutch myself and get the car dealership to install it what clutch would be worth getting? I'm not looking for a high performance racing clutch or anything just something that might boost the performance a little and doesn't cost more than $600 or so.

Also, I haven't really noticed any problems with the clutch while driving so far but I figure it will wear out eventually so I thought it might be a good idea to get it replaced while the motor is out to save on labor. Is this a smart decision or do the clutches on these cars last a long time?

 

I just replaced my clutch with the Centerforce Dual force clutch.

Very smooth and has 90-100% more holding power with a lighter pedal feel than stock (preserves the clutch pedal)

I am liking it so far, 1000 miles on it.

Mated it with a Fidanza flywheel with the ACT modified Mazda counterweight. One thing to note though you will need bolts to attach the flywheel to the counterweight if you add a lightened flywheel. I believe I picked those up from Mazdatrix along with a throwout bearing, pilot bearing and pilot bearing bushing.

The stock bolts that attach the clutch to the flywheel are fine thread.

If you go with the Fidanza you will need M8x1.25 thread 20mm long hardened bolts. (The bolt kit for lightened flywheel had the correct bolts for attaching flywheel to counterweight but the clutch to flywheel bolts were 0.5" too long.

 

i have a question aswell about an issue that i am having with my new clutch. i bought a Exzedy stage 2 clutch kit. it works great but when i try to reverse slowly or move forward slowly you will smell clutch and here a real loud chatter from the pressure plate. it will then make a really loud "ZIP" noise then the entire inside of the car will fill with a nasty smell (kinda like burt clutch but x10) i originally asumned that it was the shops problem and took it back to them to fix but they said that it looks perfectly fine inside. again it only does it while moving forward slowly (like if you are in the drive threw at a fast food place) and/or reverseing slowly. let me know what yall think it is.

 

Thanks for the info! I plan on getting the Mazda dealership to install the clutch and flywheel since I know nothing about motors and they'll have the engine out anyway. Could you give me links of the stuff I would have to buy? I want to make sure I get the right thing.

 

I got it, has haved it for 1 year now. Its really noisy but thats what you get with a sinter clutch.

I haven't got any smell at all.