speeddemon32

the boxer in the picture is not mine. its just a pic I thought was cool. I only have the two.


I would go with the better one. its not much more money. and it feels cooler. there really is no need for a better clutch in the RX-8, its not like we have gobbs of power. so the only reason to have a "better" one in is for the feel.... you know, for the driver.

so might as well go with the one that feels cool!

ik123

Just wanted to say that I work for this company and they also make a very good quality clutches www.clutchnet.com
Here's a link to their product line:
http://www.clutchnet.com/make/prodDesc.html

ik123

you guys mentioned almost every manufacturer accept ClutchNet.

Here's the link to their product line:

http://www.clutchnet.com/make/prodDesc.html

www.clutchnet.com

auzoom

I have been looking for a new clutch and flywheel and through a guy that runs one of their flywheels found a local (Australia) manufacturer that make clutches and flywheels for the 8:

Heavy duty organic clutch
30% pressure plate increase.

Heavy duty cushioned button clutch
30% upgrade load on the pressure plate but has the sprung cushioned button type clutch plate which will handle more power and abuse than the organic type

6.0 kg (13.2 lb) flywheel

4.4 kg (9.7 lb) Flywheel

Also found a little video of some fool doing a tour of their factory http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lz2y6aHv4Ck. Their web address is http://www.xtremeclutch.com.au/ and you will see people in the US, Europe and Japan stocking them.

I am going to be running ordering the 4.4kg flywheel and the cushioned button clutch as my next mod so will report back when I have done it.

Cheers

Andrew

bigireland

took my 8 to the dealership for the car making funny noises in 4th and 5th gear and turns out i'm getting a new tranny.. while they had it apart, the service guy called me and told me my clutch is about to give out.. then he quoted me $680 for a new stock clutch.. ordering an ACTclutch/Fidanzaflywheel combo from www.horsepowerfreaks.com for about the same price.. i'm just glad the service guy was cool with me doing that. he said they would throw it in there for me with no labor fees.. i'm just hoping to get my 8 back by this friday.. they've had it for almost 2 weeks now..

speeddemon32

thats nice of them. it only takes an extra 15 minutes, so thats cool.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

HEy speed, Im thinking to change my clutch out but im not sure...

sometimes when I let my clutch go slowly, The car will jerk like Im riding a horse or something(Is it called Chattering ?)

It could be throwout bearing failing, dont know.

It just started to happen like a week ago

what do you think ?

BoosTED

iTrader: (2)

I should complain because when I asked they said they would not install any aftermarket parts (even if it is Mazdaspeed...) during the warranty work. The Mazda tech was against light flywheels, said it would make it idle like crap. They did a good job installing the transmission though.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

my clutch is kinda chatter, sometimes even when I disengage my clutch *very slowly*

any thoughts ? Throwout bearing ? or clutch is going bad ?(my clutch had no slip tho)

speeddemon32

chatter would not be from throw out bearing... sounds like you have hot spots in the flywheel/pressure plate.

if it is bad and/or bothers you, then it sounds like a good time to go to the ACT clutch kit!

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

I already have ACT HD with modifed street clutch kit with Fidanza Flywheel.

So does that mean, either my PP or FW ficition material going bad ? I doubt the FW itself will go bad unless it was a bad build in the first place.

*SigH*

it kinda bothers me cuz it made me look like a dumbass at stop light (like Im first time driving a manual or something)

speeddemon32

hmmm, well.... yeah thats what I would guess. unless there iso something wrong internally. (excessive lash between gears or something liek that).

My guess would still be the clutch setup.

I would hate for you to pull it all apart and not find a problem though. but if you are capable of doing your own work then I would pull the clutch out, replace the clutch and the friction surface for the flywheel.

or better yet, if your capable of having the car down for a while, pull it all apart first so you can see what is wrong. might save you some money. (maybe you dont have to buy a new pp. maybe its JUST the disk. or JUST the flywheel.)

do you remember every beating the clutch up so bad it would cause damage. more so, have you sliped it like crazy going up a hill or something like that?

Another thing it could be is the clutch disk. I assume you got a sprung hub... maybe the springs are binding. (I dont know if this is even possable) causeing it to act like a solid hub clutch. A solid hub clutch will be more violent and jerky. (in a race car this is not a problem)


..... I dont know, just some thoughts.

UniBroW

I love'd my centerforce that I had in my old vw. I remember that i parked my car on a slopped driveway at this girls house and put it in first gear and didn't use the e-brake. Half hour later her brother comes home and says "Dave...your car is slowly working it's way down the driveway..."

I went outside and low and behold the car was slowly moving. The clutch held like a beast under rev's but when it wasn't under load it would slip. Problem was fixed by using my e-brake haha -=P. anywho, I'd imagine the centerforce would be a perfect fit for a high reving rotary =)


-Uni

bigireland

found a better deal at www.ultrarev.com. ordered a clutchmaster stage 1/fidanza flywheel combo for $603.. i shopped around and it's the best deal i found.. my only concern is the counterweight. ray at ultrarev told me i need to order one from the dealership and the service manager at my dealership says i don't need one, that it's on the crankshaft.. i know some flywheels come with counterweights and some don't.. anyone with a fidanza flywheel that could share some light?

bigireland

my apologies.. i'm checking the flywheelsX3 thread and finding my own answers like i was supposed to in the first place..

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

I think you should tell MNAO about this *service manager*'s story, so they can tell the dealership to fire his ***

Or even better, you can bring your Flywheel in and ask him, how is he going to secure the FW without the counter weight. Cuz I really want to know.

Why ? Cuz I have that Flywheel. I know how it works. and I know ALL Flywheels, except for stock, needs a counter weight to function, even Mazdaspeed ones.

bigireland

thanks nyc.. guess i'm gonna have to shell out a bit more dough.. unless i'm one of the lucky ones that gets a counterweight according to the flywheelsX3 thread..

BoosTED

iTrader: (2)

Don't say all...

The Unorthdox flywheel has the counterweight built in to the flywheel like the stock flywheel.

The Fidanza does not include the counterweight so it is necessary to purchase from Mazda.

The Mazdaspeed flywheel includes it in the kit.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Forgot about the Unorthdox one :P

Fine, I will change my word from *all* to *most*. plus it doesnt really matter if its included in the kit or not, the point is, is still *required*.

Thats why I wanna ask him to bring his Fidanza FW to that service writer, and ask him how can he secure the FW without Counter weight.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

I think I might go for ClutchMaster's Stage 3 Clutch this time.

For some reason I just dont like the ACT clutch. I mean for the price is not that bad but ... I dont know

Trying to get it for 410, the guy have to check and see if he has it in his stock

speeddemon32

yes MOST flywheels NEED the counter weight.

Now to be more clear, because I know its not crystal clear on this thread. The counter weight on the stock flywheel (and Unorthodox) is built right into the flywheel. if you look at the flywheel you can see that they have added material to one side making it heavier on one side. when you put the flywheel on you will notice that it can only go on one way via the key. this balances out the entire engine rotating assembly.

now here is the part that is not always crystal clear, ALL other flywheel require you to install the counter weight FROM AN AUTOMATIC, the counter weight is what balances the engine, the new pretty flywheel that you buy from what ever company is self balanced, meaning it does not weigh more on one side then it does the other. this pretty new flywheel bolt to the counter weight. (the counter weight acts as an adapter as well)

There, I said it....

If you look at the pictures I have on the first post you will see the difference in the stock flywheel and the ACT. notice the ACT needs the counter weight / adapter.



now just for Sh&%s and giggles, the big nut on the end of the E-shaft (crank) that hold the flywheel (or counterweight) on is a 54 mm (also known as a 2 1/8") with an impact gun this nut comes off with no problem. (yes you can do it with a breaker bar and something to lock the flywheel in place so it does not rotate, but seriously, an impact is WAY easier!.... I cant emphasize WAY enough)

I hope this clears it all up. 


EDIT: Crap, I just noticed that this is the clutches thread not the flywheel thread. go to my flywheel thread to see the pictures I was talking about above.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

*sigh*

CRH coming around NYC BUT I cant do the clutch thing this weekend ...

Anyway, I guess I'll have more time to shop for clutches

Lets put all the chattering issue on the side first ...

I think Im done with ACT HD Street Strip Clutch, I mean the clutch is ok, its heavier than stock for sure. but for some reason I just dont like it. I want to try something else.

Like my previous post said, my eye is on the ClutchMaster's Stage 3 Clutch. ITs made of Part Kelvar and Part Carbon, 110% over stock, thats some really heavy *** clutch ...

I dont worry about that Clutch Bracket issue because, I got a Big Slave Cylinder thats suppose to make heavy clutch effortless(thats what it saids on FEED's site)

Now my question is, will this be a good clutch driving around City ? Kevlar should last longer than Ceramic/Organic material isnt it? but I read some site they said dont try to Ride the clutch like you did with Organic/Ceramic to try to smooth out the engagement on a clutch made of Kevlar. Is that true tho ?

http://www.clutchmasters.com/shop/?p...024&AppID=5652

BoosTED

iTrader: (2)

I will be putting the Centerforce clutch in soon.

I'll let you know how I like that.

From what I have read it gives a lighter pedal feel than stock but has considerably more holding power.

To compliment my Esmeril Racing Turbo ...

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

reallllllyyyyy ....

Reason I choose Clutch Master simply because they're the only one with Kevlar Material thats in a reasonable price *cough*

I wanted to try Autoexe one, they do sell just the clutch, but not with PP, the other package I have to buy everything including the FW, I dont want that, I already have a Fidanza its going to be a waste.

I think 410 + 25 shipping aint that bad for a Kevlar disc Clutch.

speeddemon32

Nycgps, are you boosted? if not a stage 3 clutchmasters clutch is going to be over kill.

seriously, if your not going to be pushing quite a bit more powr then stock then it really is just a little much for a street car with stock power.

I had a stage one in my RX-7 and I loved it, I had a stage two i it, that was fine as well.

when I turned the RX-7 into a drag car I put a stage 3 in it (all of these were clutch masters by the way) which I never really got to use other then the moving the car out of the driveway, from what little I used it, it was a little harsh.

I pulled the stage 3 out and went with what you would consider a stage.... 6???? I guess. (if I remember right) it was a sold hub 4 puck clutch. again I didnt REALLY get to use this clutch, but what little I did use it, It was more of an on off switch. it was awsome (for a race car). I loved the way it felt!!!


my biggest thing is I dont see why so many RX-8 guys put these big bad clutches in their cars when they are not pushing much power. the stock clutch really is a nice clutch. I had the RB flash, the ultra light pulleys, the ultra light flywheel, intakes... blah blah blah. I pushed 201 on the dyno (and that was before the RB flash). I have beat the hell out of my clutch, done many of many of auto crosses, multiple burnouts, and the factory clutch still works like a champ, with all of that, I have never once had a clutch slipage issue.

In fact I had 4th gear problems which required me to pull the tranny out (to put the car back to stock before going to the dealer) and the factory clutch looked like it was new. I was VERY impressed with it.

If your looking for more of a sporty feel, ok, I can see that. I myself like the sporty feel. the only reason I would change the clutch is for the feel. but a stage 3 I think just becomes overkill. even a stage 2 is over kill on an RX-8 that is not boosted or running a nitrous system.


.... just my.02